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2G 7 blade hx35 oil and boost issue.

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jpmxrider489

10+ Year Contributor
2,410
146
Apr 4, 2010
pittsburgh, Pennsylvania
I am finishing up my build and finally got the car to idle. My 7 blade hx35 is rebuilt. I have noticed oil in my intake pipe. Could this be to high of oil pressure? I will confirm pressures today and post back. I have a catch can properly set up as well.

When you measure the pressure for the turbo, are you using a T fitting and leaving the sensor installed? Or just going of the pressure gauge (aftermarket) on the ofh?

My pan has a -10 fitting welded to the pan. I know I need a -12. Without access to having this redone, is there a better way to do this. Could I run a restrictor to limit oil since the drain is to small? Maybe over oiling is reason for the oil in the pipe?

Since diesel use different oil, should I change? Motor builder recommended 10w40. If there is something else I should use to help the turbo or overall I would be interested in it.

I know these topics already have many threads. However, I appreciate the help.
 
I am finishing up my build and finally got the car to idle. My 7 blade hx35 is rebuilt. I have noticed oil in my intake pipe. Could this be to high of oil pressure? I will confirm pressures today and post back. I have a catch can properly set up as well.

When you measure the pressure for the turbo, are you using a T fitting and leaving the sensor installed? Or just going of the pressure gauge (aftermarket) on the ofh?

My pan has a -10 fitting welded to the pan. I know I need a -12. Without access to having this redone, is there a better way to do this. Could I run a restrictor to limit oil since the drain is to small? Maybe over oiling is reason for the oil in the pipe?

Since diesel use different oil, should I change? Motor builder recommended 10w40. If there is something else I should use to help the turbo or overall I would be interested in it.

I know these topics already have many threads. However, I appreciate the help.

I think step 1 is to get the proper restrictor in the oil feed.
See this thread. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/hx35-oil-restrictor-size-questions.510361/
 
Justin hasn't been on in a while but I run full oil pressure to my HX40 from the OFH and he has always told me, "I don't know how you are feeding it, but it looks great on the inside". This is 90# cold start, settles to 16# hot idle and drain it WELL. WOT is around 60-70 Hot, I think. I don't monitor it under WOT usually.
I checked my oil pressure by putting a tee in where my Earls in-line filter is and it is exactly the same as the motor is seeing.
I run Rotella T4 and ad Rislone ZZDP additive to my oil and think it does an excellent job of not wearing on the thrust plate in the turbo and other high load areas in my motor. Has always worked for me. This topic is highly debated although in another thread on hear.
 
Last edited:
Hx35
No balance shafts
I'm running -10 drain
I have my oil pressure gauge between ofh and turbo
-4an feed
Oriface connected to ofh drilled out to .080"
I'm seeing 8psi at idle fully warmed.
I dont have much of idea on WOT pressure just yet.
I have intents to drill orifice to .090"
 
Justin hasn't been on in a while but I run full oil pressure to my HX40 from the OFH and he has always told me, "I don't know how you are feeding it, but it looks great on the inside". This is 90# cold start, settles to 16# hot idle and drain it WELL. WOT is around 60-70 Hot, I think. I don't monitor it under WOT usually.
I checked my oil pressure by putting a tee in where my Earls in-line filter is and it is exactly the same as the motor is seeing.
I run Rotella T4 and ad Rislone ZZDP additive to my oil and think it does an excellent job of not wearing on the thrust plate in the turbo and other high load areas in my motor. Has always worked for me. This topic is highly debated although in another thread on hear.

On a cold start I see around 60. While it warms up, it slowly settles around 25. Car doesnt have much time on it yet other than a handful of long idles. Glad to know that you confirmed that turbo pressure and motor pressure was the same. I dont think my oil in my pipe issue is due to overpressure since I am still under 72. The lines to my catch can were oil free as well as the line going to the intake pipe. The only thing I havent measured was crank case pressure. But the oil in the pipe was a little concerning. My old 20g at 30psi never had a oil issue. Neither did my small 16g at 24psi. But the car only say maybe 7psi at a failed drive.

I know the oil topic has been covered everywhere. So are you using the 15w40? I would like to find a oil that is easy to find at the local walmart. The only 10w40 that I could find was mobil one high mileage stuff.

I think step 1 is to get the proper restrictor in the oil feed.
See this thread. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/hx35-oil-restrictor-size-questions.510361/

In that thread, I am using the 3/8 90 degree fitting. But im not sure I need a restrictor if I am still in the specs.
 
You don't need a restrictor for a Holset. Those diesel motors run high oil pressure. What you need is a drain of sufficient size to drain and not clog. USUALLY a 10an will work without pooling issues and if you had that, YOU'D KNOW IT. It would be slowing the turbo.
I run 12an on one car and the best drain kit that I've found on the other from @MorrisonFab .
You have a welded in bung but it should be ok at your pressures IMO.
Maybe Mr Morrison will give his 2 cents.
 
The turbo isnt smoking. But it really doesnt want to go over 7lb. I'm trying to diagnose wastegate stuff as well. However, still doesnt explain oil in my intake pipe. I'll see what I can come up with for a bigger drain. If I cant, I'll have to find a 10an adapter where the ID is bigger than some of the kits.
 
You don't need a restrictor for a Holset. Those diesel motors run high oil pressure. What you need is a drain of sufficient size to drain and not clog. USUALLY a 10an will work without pooling issues and if you had that, YOU'D KNOW IT. It would be slowing the turbo.
I run 12an on one car and the best drain kit that I've found on the other from @MorrisonFab .
You have a welded in bung but it should be ok at your pressures IMO.
Maybe Mr Morrison will give his 2 cents.

Indeed. On my HX40, I run a -4 feed from the ofh. For the drain, I run a 1 inch drain. Totally unrestricted, no issues.
 
I know the oil topic has been covered everywhere. So are you using the 15w40? I would like to find a oil that is easy to find at the local walmart. The only 10w40 that I could find was mobil one high mileage stuff.
I find it at a tractor or diesel store. My Orshellyns Farm and Home carrys it and my local WalMart does too. The WM also carries my Rislone ZZDP additive. :thumb:
 
So upon further investigation, I believe I am fighting a small drain and high crankcase pressure. I measured my drain I had, was 12mm. I know holsets drain is 19mm. So made the pan and a new hose at 16mm. That's the best i was able to do. I noticed oil pressure was a little lower after this to.

I noticed that oil is coming out my new filler cap as well as leaking out of my turbo feed line and filter. My catch can lines are not wet at all. I have a vibrant check valve in place of the pcv. Upon further reading maybe I should use the pcv and check valve. The pcv modulates while i go in and out of boost at low psi. But the check valve is a on or off thing. Thoughts on this theory? I want to try and running the pcv line and check valve to the catch can and plug the manifold to see if this helps at all.
 
I run a check valve in the pcv line and the brake booster line so all they see is vacuum, always.
 
It is in between the intake nipple and the pcv valve to keep positive pressure out of my crankcase and not letting it even get to the pcv valve. The pcv valves don't do a very good job so I, along with a few others, put the one way check valves in both of those lines. So the answer is keep it (the pcv valve) and add the one way valve for added protection.
 
I figured I would ad this to my own thread. I got the oiling thing solved I think. No more oil in my comp cover. Got a good -12 line setup. I was running a oem pcv with my vibrant check valve. I pulled off the check valve and there was oil in the line. I am debating on just removing the pcv and just change my oil. I am running 38 psi and my guess is the pcv wont handle that. I pressure tested it and it leaks at 30.

Second thing, horsepower and airflow. Something is up here. At that much boost, i was expecting more than 43lb/min. Also boost falls off around 6k. My ecuboost and boostest are pretty close. Is this normal for this setup. I was thinking boost was going to last to 7500-8k. I attached a log.
 

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Is this turbo in the small Bep.55 housing? Also your speed density table looks little strange to me being at 100 ve at 3500 but by 5,000rpm it says 91.5. I think your injectors aren't set correctly. I always decide my global off what makes VE line up at 100 around 5,000rpm. Airflow is directly based off the VE table being its not really metering any air just going off what the table tells it. Your boost is dropping off badly. If its in the small housing I could see this, if its not then you have either boost leaks, exhaust leaks, or wastegate/ pluming issue. Also what is up with your fuel pressure reading? The small idle part of the log I see your short term fuel trims are very rich aswell, Yet you have the VE table very low in that area telling me again the injectors are scaled wrong.
 
This is in the twin scroll stock housing. I know my wastegate plumbing is good. My exhaust, I guess it could be a issue, but would have to be pretty big. I did find 2 pinholes in my downpipe. I fixed that before that log though. The exhaust is just vband straight back. I am not sure about the VE table looking funny. But my linwideband and afrest are fairly close. My ecuboost,map, and boostest is really close as well. The only thing that is weird is ecuboost and boostest match good, within 2psi. But towards the end of the pull, the difference is 7psi. Would that be a sign of a boost leak? What should fuel pressue be during wot? Ill try and find a log from a few days ago. I know there wasnt much idle in this log. But when I did the idle, I drove on a short drive and then came back to the garage and let the car idle. I got compft + or - 2. I also got the ISC and lrnidle to be near 36 and 144.

I was trying to get horsepower to read right. I saw a post from someone with linktools. But you get a short WOT of each gear and enter the average in the box for horsepower. I did that but horsepower is kind of jumpy or just completly wrong.
 
I did another boost leak test. I found 2 really big ones. A coupler and my BOV line. Those are now fixed. The snap ring on the compressor cover, also leaks a little. Is that good or bad and how is it fixed. Could this be a big issue? My airflow in link didnt change at all with the leaks being fixed. My boost leak results are, I put 10psi in and took well over a minute to bleed to 0. I then did 25psi and took 45 seconds to bleed to 10psi. I then did 34psi and took 16 seconds to bleed to 25. I think that is pretty good. In the log I just attached, my wideband factor is low. But the boost is still falling off. I dont understand what else to do. Also I am seeing 43 airflow at 38psi and 28psi, how could that be?
 

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