Hey everyone I’m new to the build game and wanted some advise and suggestions.. I just got a 92 gsx. It has some things done to it.. my questions are what do I have so far? And what should I do next ?

Welcome! First things I would do would be maintenance, so if you have any leaks, squeaks, rattles, then take care of those. Also, if you are not 100% sure the timing belt has been done correctly, and you don't have any receipts showing so, then I would replace it with quality OEM or aftermarket parts.

The list looks pretty good overall, the only thing I would suggest is upgrading ECM link to V3, but that's not absolutely necessary. I'm also not wild about the O2 dump wastegate, but if it works okay then you don't really have to change it.

Just making sure everything is in good working order and all your maintenance is done is the best thing for you and the car. Make sure you fill out a vehicle profile once you have a chance to fully look the car over, that way we all know what your car has and don't have to constantly ask.

Once again, welcome! you are now part of one of the greatest technical resources online

Hey man thanks for the info and warm welcome I’m excited to begin my first real build.. what does it mean dumped to atmosphere and what should I do to fix this issue.. I am picking the car up Saturday and want to have a plan.. again thank you for the info

Anthony Hornback said:

Hey man thanks for the info and warm welcome I’m excited to begin my first real build.. what does it mean dumped to atmosphere and what should I do to fix this issue.. I am picking the car up Saturday and want to have a plan.. again thank you for the info

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Dumped to atmosphere means that instead of recirculating wastegate gasses back to the main exhaust, it just vents to the atmosphere like a second exhaust pipe. Same thing for a bov/bpv, it just means that boost pressure doesn't go back to the inlet pipe, it vents to the outside.
If you don't want either to dump to atmosphere then you need to have them plumbed back into their respective tracts.

Welcome my dude.! Looks like we’re both going to be new to the game.! Haha. As stated, check/change all of your fluids, check your belts out for any cracks or missing chunks/strands.(when I bought my gst spyder, the alternator belt was literally half of a belt. Lmao.) probably best to just change the oil and filter anyway. (Please don’t use a fram filter. They’re literally only cardboard on the inside.) probably check out your spark plug wires and change out the spark plugs. May as well do a compression test while you’re doing the plugs. When you get the chance, replace the catch can. Take the inter cooler off and give it a good clean inside and out.(I used brake cleaner just to be sure to remove all the gunk inside of it, but you use as you see fit.) another suggestion of mine would be to replace ALL of the shifter bushings if it’s a manual transmission.( The bushings on the shifter fork under the hood, the nylon bushings inside of the shifter itself, and the shifter base bushings. I went solid brass for the bushings under the hood and for the base.) depending on what state you’re in, I would recommend looking into a catalytic converter.(maybe set it up to where you can put it on and take it off for inspections if your state does them.) check for any leaks or any excessive oil or grease spots. Check out all 4 struts and towers to make sure they’re good. That’s pretty much all I can think of at the moment. Hope this helps and once again, welcome.!

Run a compression test to see the overall health of the motor. I would say 155-160 if it was recently rebuild. Check for rust on the strut towers and fender linings. Make sure u check the timing belt or see if it's been replaced recently as well as oem timing components. Check on the afr (air fuel ratio) when you drive it. That's what the wideband is for. You want it 14.7 or so on idle and cruise and around 10.5-11.1 on wot.

Man you guys are awesome .. thank you for all the info I will keep everyone posted on how this all goes

Any suggestions on spark plug and wire brands to go with

Stock NGK wires will do just fine, for plugs either BR or BPR6/7/8es. The heat range depends on fuel used and power. Usually read plugs and find a plug that shows heat mark about 3/4 threads up it. The BPR stands for protruding and the BR and non protruding. Most like a BR7es would work well for a plug for that car.

Anthony Hornback said:

Man you guys are awesome .. thank you for all the info I will keep everyone posted on how this all goes

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No problem man.! As stated before NGK is usually a good plug to use. Wires it doesn’t really matter but don’t get anything to thick.

Do I need to install new springs and valves before I install my box 272 cams or will it be fine until winter?

Compression ended up at 140