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1G cylinder head build parts list. need/ dont need?

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OH91awd

10+ Year Contributor
1,204
763
Sep 22, 2011
chillicothe, Ohio
sooo im looking to start getting parts together for my new engines cylinder head build. looking into parts for this and im not quite sure what if what i picked out is what i need or if its unnecessary. engine is going to be a aluminum rod 10.6:1 compression bottom end, turbo will most likley be a borg s366sxe with a t4. boost will be in the mid/40 psi range and wanting to rev this thing to 9-9500rpm but will see street miles as well so its not an all out racecar. list ive got so far includes:

kiggly high pressure spring kit
kiggly hla
3g revised lifters
ferrea 6000 intake valves +1mm
ferrea comp exhaust valves +1mm
viton valve seals
gsc bronze valve guides
gsc s2 cams

plan is to have the head o ringed as well when it goes to get the machine work done. any suggestions to this list i appreciated.
 
It looks like a very good list! Everything has been covered. Don't forget the teardrop mod, new cam seals and a nice set of gears :thumb:
 
Very similar to my head. I don’t rev past 9,000rpm on revised lifters. New 2g lifters would be better choice for very high rpm. Have the head ported if your going with +1mm valves. I run the same cams aswell and shows to 8,500rpm there is no drop off in power. I do not rev above 8,000rpm on the street usually as stock trans doesn’t shift fast enough to make it worth it for me. My head is also O ringed. Make sure protrusion is set correctly for the gasket you choose. I run a composite gasket with L19 studs. Should easly hold down 40psi. This motor was O ringed with stainless rings before at .008 protrusion with cometic MLS and L19s and pushed coolant at 47psi.
 
It looks like a very good list! Everything has been covered. Don't forget the teardrop mod, new cam seals and a nice set of gears :thumb:
yea its getting all new gaskets of course LOL and ive got my hks gears ill be using.


Very similar to my head. I don’t rev past 9,000rpm on revised lifters. New 2g lifters would be better choice for very high rpm. Have the head ported if your going with +1mm valves. I run the same cams aswell and shows to 8,500rpm there is no drop off in power. I do not rev above 8,000rpm on the street usually as stock trans doesn’t shift fast enough to make it worth it for me. My head is also O ringed. Make sure protrusion is set correctly for the gasket you choose. I run a composite gasket with L19 studs. Should easly hold down 40psi. This motor was O ringed with stainless rings before at .008 protrusion with cometic MLS and L19s and pushed coolant at 47psi.

exhaust side might get ported but i didnt want to go too heavy on a 1g head intake side being that its still a street car.. ive heard that the oe style lifters were better for high rpm but ive also heard back and forth as well. i was looking into using an oem mls on this motor. im currently running a composite and l19s on the current motor with great success. im looking to be in the 45-48 psi range in the end most likely. ive always thought that people used copper for the o ring.
 
Most do. But there is debate as to if the copper rings even do anything as they are so soft they smash when head is torqued anyway. The old set up on this car didn’t work. So I went back to a composite gasket. I would think with proper suffice finish a MLS with some 625+ or 1/2 in head studs should hold that boost. I think mine leaked due to studs as there where signs of coolant in cylinder but zero signs of head gasket leaking or a O ring blown out. So I assumed it would lift under boost and leak a little. That boost was also done on a 67mm hx40 in .70AR housing so it was most likely choked up big time and exhaust back pressure most likely didn’t help the issue.
 
Most do. But there is debate as to if the copper rings even do anything as they are so soft they smash when head is torqued anyway. The old set up on this car didn’t work. So I went back to a composite gasket. I would think with proper suffice finish a MLS with some 625+ or 1/2 in head studs should hold that boost. I think mine leaked due to studs as there where signs of coolant in cylinder but zero signs of head gasket leaking or a O ring blown out. So I assumed it would lift under boost and leak a little. That boost was also done on a 67mm hx40 in .70AR housing so it was most likely choked up big time and exhaust back pressure most likely didn’t help the issue.

so you think the l19s on an mls wont cut it? hmm may stick with the composite then LOL alot to think about. appreciate the info.
 
There are some other members here that have pushed things farther than me. So I cannot say for sure if it will or not. So I went back to the safe option as O rings with l19s and composite has shown to hold 40psi just fine.
 
Last edited:
welp ive went ahead and bought springs, the hla, and valve seals. gonna do some more research on valves and lifters to make sure what im looking at now is going to work well.
 
Just sharing my experience.
I recommend 1g lifters instead of 3g's if you want to rev over 9500rpm constantly and if the car is for street. Before I was revving 10000 rpm with a Kiggly HLA regulator and 3g lifters, a couple of times rocker arm fell off.
And in my case, the standard 12mm L19 head studs/only head side SS o-ringed without receiver groove/MLS gasket was fine up to 50 psi for long period. It started pushing a bit of coolant when I exceeded 52-53 psi range for couple of times.
 
Just sharing my experience.
I recommend 1g lifters instead of 3g's if you want to rev over 9500rpm constantly and if the car is for street. Before I was revving 10000 rpm with a Kiggly HLA regulator and 3g lifters, a couple of times rocker arm fell off.
And in my case, the standard 12mm L19 head studs/only head side SS o-ringed without receiver groove/MLS gasket was fine up to 50 psi for long period. It started pushing a bit of coolant when I exceeded 52-53 psi range for couple of times.
with the cams im running idk if itll will make power over 9500 but no idea until it gets together. ive heard that the 1g/ 2g lifter was a better optioin for high rpm. and 50 psi may be a max for me on this motor. its not filled at all. not sure if i should look into that either tbh since its still a street car.

Dont forget to check the valve guides aren't too worn, they aren't easy to replace
valve guides are on the list as a just in case. machine shop will be replacing them if needed.
 
I ran L19s, Cometic MLS at more than 85ft/lbs, more like 115 and a mirror RA, 3g lifters. Ran to 9k on 40-44 lbs boost with no problems. 6 bolt in my case. Just for reference.
 
soo after some talking with the guy thats going to be building the head we are probably not going to be changing the valve guides in the head. also probably staying with a stock size valve as well.
 
Nothing wrong with that. I have all stock size valves and the stock valves are good, I just upgraded because I had the money for a couple of my heads. The head on my sons 6 bolt is stock valve and guide but BC0100 springs/retainers with FP2 cams and those valves lapped in great.
 
Nothing wrong with that. I have all stock size valves and the stock valves are good, I just upgraded because I had the money for a couple of my heads. The head on my sons 6 bolt is stock valve and guide but BC0100 springs/retainers with FP2 cams and those valves lapped in great.

yea we are gonna go with a nitrided valve on the exhaust side and a good stainless on the intake. guy i have building my head has built his bottom 7 second s2000 with a similar setup so thinks i should be fine with it.
 
I have nitrided SuperTechs myself. Bonze guides in one head.
 
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