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2G Help with battery relocation

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Moi831

Probationary Member
26
2
Dec 26, 2016
Salinas, California
Was up DSMers so I’m having issues with my TSI starting...My battery is in the trunk and the positive wire is a 4 gauge running all the way to the front with a single post busbar..I have 2 ground cables bolted on the sides of fender by the strut area...battery reads 12.0V, I have a new alternator(I’m going to get tested) and a new starter(also going to get tested)...the issue is every time I turn the key I hear a click and I have keep turning the key over and over for it to start and can’t seem to find the problem
 
Was up DSMers so I’m having issues with my TSI starting...My battery is in the trunk and the positive wire is a 4 gauge running all the way to the front with a single post busbar..I have 2 ground cables bolted on the sides of fender by the strut area...battery reads 12.0V, I have a new alternator(I’m going to get tested) and a new starter(also going to get tested)...the issue is every time I turn the key I hear a click and I have keep turning the key over and over for it to start and can’t seem to find the problem

Sounds like the battery is either dead and doesn't have enough juice to crank it over or your losing to much power in the wire and need to get a bigger battery.
 
Yes the car does start and a soon as it starts to crank it starts and runs fine...oh but I forgot to mention that while it runs the break and battery light get brighter as I’m driving and the lights will flash at a certain RPM
 
You're not getting any charge to the battery it sounds like, or the alternator isn't turning on. Also, 12.0 volts is damn near dead, 12.6 is fully charged.

Post some pics of your relocation wiring and the actual wire you used. Typically I'd recommend 0 or 00 wire for a battery relocation ( I run 00 welding cable and I still see a small voltage drop on the wire to the front dist. block).
 
The relocates I have done use 0 or 2 gauge. I currently have 2ga in my car have for years with zero issue. But its good quality wire that's real 2ga Oxygen free copper. I have seen when cheaper quality wire is used in smaller size to create issues.
 
I’ll post pictures tomorrow and that’s the wire is the only thing that I could think of being the problem but I am going to get everything tested tomorrow
 
Ok guys sorry for the super late update.

I replaced my alternator with a 90amp. I replaced the 4g wires with 0g oxy-free, I put 2 ground into the rear seat bolt (sanded paint to metal). Ran the positive wire to the front into a distribution block. From distribution block I have a 4g wire going to starter, to alternator, 4 8g wires the replace the white wire that go into the fuse box, & replaced Alt. Fuse.

I also added a ground wire from right strut into starter and firewall to throttle body, another from firewall to intake manifold to coil, another from body to the alternator.

From all that the car started fine on the first try, lasted about a week and now having same issue to where I have to keep turning key a few times till it starts.

2 days ago I noticed a small cloud of smoke that came from the steering wheel mid cover. Could this issue be something with the key ignition?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The alternator should have no direct affect on starting the car, even if it's dead. Keeping the battery charged is another thing. Check your ignition components. If they're bad, you're not getting the car started, not in a normal way anyway.
 
If you saw smog coming from the ignition, open it up and see what’s is being burning, you will see what wire it is, and once you figure it out, post it here so we know what wire it is, so we can tell you where to look or how to solve the problem.

When something happens like that, you have to investigate yourself,
There is no way we can tell you what’s going on in the ignition side, so open it up and take a look, if you don’t find anything then take some pics and post them here, we might catch something you haven’t.
 
Have you tested the voltage with a multimeter when the car is running to see if it’s charging your battery?
I would start with that and if it’s not charging, check the alt fuse again.
Most battery relocations on our cars people run 2 power wires, a 0 or 2/0 to the distribution block and a separate 4 directly to the alt with an in-line fuse and/or circuit breaker.
You could have a parasitic draw that’s killing the battery between driving it if you’re getting a charge while running.
Mine did the same thing but my car would actually kill a new battery within a month- dead cells and free replacements.
I’d have someone tap the starter while you turn the key and hear the click without letting off and see if you have a starter issue.
I’ve seen starters kill batteries and require multiple bumps before starting so that could be something to check if the alt is good.
I would definitely check your ignition wiring as these cars are prone to crappy owners who don’t know how to wire.
Here’s a pic of mine and what was causing my issues(remote starter that was removed and some wiring left)
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Ok DSMers found the issue...and it’s the same thing punk3rz is going through...I’ll still post pics of the relocation wiring and the problem
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I know messy wires..
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red arrow is 4 gauge positive & green circles are negative grounded to body into alt
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- 0 gauge Ground from strut tower - throttle body
- 4 gauge ground from fire - starter & fire wall - IM - Coils ( marked I’m green)
I forget to take a pic of positive cables but I a 0 gauge from battery - a 3 way distribution block which is 4 gauge - starter &alternator and 4 8 gauge wires to the fuse box
 
Then I found a bunch of wiring hooked up to a black box when I took off the steering column cover which is the aftermarket security system with remote start...while I had everything off I tried turning the car on and the black box kept clicking at the same time the starter did so I unplugged it and nothing happened just power no clicking then I reconnected it and i Started the car about 4 times and it started every time on the 1st key turn...so I eliminated some stuff that was connected to the box that I don’t need since I disconnected the main power source for the box... but not going to leave it like that I’m going to have a viper security installed “PROFESSIONALY”
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Thanks to everyone that helped me in any way I appreciate it and I know pics are not the best thing and hopefully PUNK3RZ and mine experience with this crap helps someone else
 
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