The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

2g Clutch slipping chattering fine before

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JGL122

10+ Year Contributor
105
29
Aug 8, 2012
Houston, Texas
Hi all,
Im hoping I can get some feedback on where to start in solving my clutch issue. So my clutch is slipping. In november 2019 coming back from driving my car, leaving a stop light accelerating hard the clutch started slipping and it was making a clicking sound at idle when i got back to the house. I took separated the trans and engine and took a look at the clutch. Everything looked fine. I cleaned it up and put it back together. I followed the clutch pedal adjustment video from jacks transmission and the fork is in the middle of the fork hole. I thought it might be because the clutch wasn't fully releasing the pp and causing the slip but it seems to fully release so not sure it's that. I have a feeling it might be the flywheel step size might be off.
A little background on the car setup. I changed the clutch and resurfaced the flywheel April 2017 and I've driven it fine for 4000 miles until now. The clutch is a act 2600 sprung street disk. The flywheel is a act flywheel. When i replaced the clutch, i took the flywheel to the machine shop and had them resurface to road race engineering spec of .608-.610. I dont remember confirming when i picked it up that it was to spec. Like I said up until now the clutch and drivetrain ran great. I took it easy for the first few hundred miles to break the disk in.
Right now when i slip the clutch it slips and it makes a rattle sound. I'm guessing thats the disk springs rattling from grabbing and slipping repeatedly, but thats just a guess. I don't have a problem removing the trans again, I just want to know what to address before I start replacing parts. Like I said, I'm thinking it might be the flywheel being the wrong step height causing the slippage, but i want to see what else i should consider or look for before i go and buy a new flywheel. Thanks in advance. Pics for reference.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Hi all,
Im hoping I can get some feedback on where to start in solving my clutch issue. So my clutch is slipping. In november 2019 coming back from driving my car, leaving a stop light accelerating hard the clutch started slipping and it was making a clicking sound at idle when i got back to the house. I took separated the trans and engine and took a look at the clutch. Everything looked fine. I cleaned it up and put it back together. I followed the clutch pedal adjustment video from jacks transmission and the fork is in the middle of the fork hole. I thought it might be because the clutch wasn't fully releasing the pp and causing the slip but it seems to fully release so not sure it's that. I have a feeling it might be the flywheel step size might be off.
A little background on the car setup. I changed the clutch and resurfaced the flywheel April 2017 and I've driven it fine for 4000 miles until now. The clutch is a act 2600 sprung street disk. The flywheel is a act flywheel. When i replaced the clutch, i took the flywheel to the machine shop and had them resurface to road race engineering spec of .608-.610. I dont remember confirming when i picked it up that it was to spec. Like I said up until now the clutch and drivetrain ran great. I took it easy for the first few hundred miles to break the disk in.
Right now when i slip the clutch it slips and it makes a rattle sound. I'm guessing thats the disk springs rattling from grabbing and slipping repeatedly, but thats just a guess. I don't have a problem removing the trans again, I just want to know what to address before I start replacing parts. Like I said, I'm thinking it might be the flywheel being the wrong step height causing the slippage, but i want to see what else i should consider or look for before i go and buy a new flywheel. Thanks in advance. Pics for reference.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I just installed a new clutch in my car so maybe I can give some insight. Make sure the flywheel bolts are torqued down to spec as well as anything else clutch related. Make sure your throw out bearing is in good working order and that the retaining clip is positioned correctly. Make sure the spines on the spring (where the tob makes contact with the pressure plate) that there are not any grooves as that can catch the tob and cause issues. As far as the clicking you might have a rivet or something on the clutch that is loose. Also make sure no grease from the tob or shaft gets on the clutch plate.
 
I don't have a problem removing the trans again
When were these pictures taken?
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Are those tool marks from the resurfacing on the top area in this picture? Looks like maybe the pressure plate isn't bolting all the way down or flywheel is not stepped parallel to the friction surface so the step is the same all the around the flywheel. Need to be measured in several places all the way around like RRE shows on their website. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm
 
Last edited:
Pictures are from last month. This is what the flywheels looked like when it was first resurfaced.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

So perhaps the flywheel is the problem?
I just installed a new clutch in my car so maybe I can give some insight. Make sure the flywheel bolts are torqued down to spec as well as anything else clutch related. Make sure your throw out bearing is in good working order and that the retaining clip is positioned correctly. Make sure the spines on the spring (where the tob makes contact with the pressure plate) that there are not any grooves as that can catch the tob and cause issues. As far as the clicking you might have a rivet or something on the clutch that is loose. Also make sure no grease from the tob or shaft gets on the clutch plate.
Thanks, I replaced the tob with oem when I installed the new clutch components.
 
So all your pictures are before slipping?
 
Gotcha. I would try to figure out why there are resurfacing grinding marks still showing in that one area on the flywheel. I would expect all the grinding mark would be gone after bedding in the disc & 4000 miles driving. Also, when you're putting everything back together check or get new "correct" bolts for the pressure plate & torque them to 18-22 ft lbs with your 2600.
 
I read this in an old post on another dsm forum, but maybe someone that's experienced this before can chime in. Would a flywheel thats stepped improperly cause this. I mean, if a new clutch is installed, it would run fine in the beginning until it wore enough to start slipping. Either the flywheel wore down or the clutch plate wore down. Or both. That make sense?
 
Gonna continue this thread. So I sent off the clutch pressure plate, disk and flywheel to ACT to have them inspected and to see if they were within spec. They all came back with no issues. Act guy said they're all in "like new" spec. Which makes sense since they only have 4k miles. They went ahead and replaced the disk pads to new.
I reinstalled everything. Flywheel has arp bolts torqued to spec. I reinstalled with upgraded competition clutch fork. TOB is oem and only has 4k miles also. Master is new and slave is relatively new. Both Oem.
So I put it all back together and when I put it in forward gear it grinds and slips. I give it gas and it moves forward but slowly like the clutch is slipping. I say "Clutch slipping" cause thats the best way to describe it but i'm pretty sure its not that, because when I put it in reverse and accelerate it moves perfect with no "slipping" issue. So all forward gears go into gear but move slowely and reverse seems to work fine. What would cause this? I'm prepared to take the trans off and take it apart but I'd like to know what all I should consider and perhaps look for. Thanks in advance!
 
You sure you haven't broken a center diff? Feels alot like a slipping clutch.
Thank you, yes this is what i was looking for. Didn't know what to consider.
After searching center diff topics I think that could be the issue. I have a friend coming over hopefully to get a second opinion before I tear the trans apart. But thanks!
 
So someone mentioned lifting the drivers tire while leaving the passenger down and trying to turn the wheel and if it turns the center diff is bad. I tried that and the drivers wheel wouldn't turn. Didn't know what to think of that because...
When i lifted the car on jacks and put it into first gear the front tires spun slower or intermittedly from the rear tires. After a min the fronts stopped spinning and only the rears spun. Based on what others have told me thats a sign of bad center diff.
I'm not trying to continue to diagnose like this but more to keep track of my progress. I know to really find the issue i'll have to dig into the trans. I'll keep updating here with what i find.
Next thing i'm gonna try is removing the center drive shaft and see if it moves under it's own power. Someone told me that was another way to see if its the center diff.
 
Ok, Took off the transfer case and did some tests. Started the car and it'll go into first and second without pressing the clutch. Also the front wheels dont turn. Reverse works fine, wheels go in reverse. If i put it into first gear and rev it a little the front wheels will turn slightly. Based on all this and what everyone has mentioned, its the center diff that's busted. I'll drop the trans next and take a look see.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top