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Going camping for the next 3 days. Thread will be ghosted until I get back and working (probably Sunday). Parts should arrive on Saturday, and I'll go get a press then. 20 ton press is the plan. They cancelled work and school for next week also, so I've got plenty of time to get it done.
 
Now we're in trouble :shhh:.

The fun part is happening now. I got the gear stacks and shift forks out. Now I need to press them apart so I can dig into the synchronizers.

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I got the new seal overhaul kit installed on the tranny. I also got the inside of it cleaned as best as I could, and scraped the magnet clean. Also did some major degreasing in the lower engine bay where the tranny sits. Everything is almost ready to go back in.

Now, yesterday the gears decided they didn't want to let loose. So I located a shop with a 40 ton press, and they still didn't want to let loose. I've got to figure something out. These things are stuck on there!!
 
Running into a few interruptions with the tranny.

Right now these 2 case bearings are what's holding me up. The one for the output shaft just doesn't want to go in straight. And I literally cannot provide a valid reason as to why it won't go in. It is one millimeter away from letting me put the snap ring in.

I'll get it figured out at some point, but for now it's annoying the hell out of me.

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I am in absolute relief.

Upon first assembly, it wouldn't go into first gear. I went pale faced for a moment. Tore it back apart, and found that I forgot to reconnect the reverse idler pin. It was getting hung up on the selector preventing it from raising to 1st. Fixed that, threw it back together, and woo hoo we have 1st.

Typed in 2 minutes, done in 2 hours.

And yes, I did get those bearings installed straight and the snap rings on. Time to put the tranny back in the car... And my back already hurts.
 
My triceps are jelly, and my transmission is back in the car. Bench pressing and wobbling is what it took.

The ass pain is almost over. Just need to put shift cables and battery back in.

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Great Job Solomon!!!!!! :thumb:
 
I got everything installed and trest drove it. Immediately I noticed the difference in the clutch pedal. Before it would press all the way down with minimal effort. But now, it's super stiff and I can actually feel when it engages and disengages. No more slipping either. So far 2nd gear works better than ever.

I wish I could get the 500 miles done this month, but with this quarantine stuff going on it could next month or the month after.

To say the least, I am very satisfied with where the build is. Still more to come in the future, but for now there's nothing else I could even ask for. It's the best 90's car I've ever driven.
 
What type of disc is that clutch? If it's just an organic disc, they don't really have a break in period. You can beat on them from the beginning. The only disc that really requires a break in, is a kevlar disc, you have to wear the fuzz off or you can glaze the disc
 
I'm in the same boat, every since my car turned out to be a heartbreaker its been pushed outside and ive been working on other stuff, it had been about 3 weeks since id been on here so i figured id check out what everyone had accomplished.
 
Hey buddy, glad to see you are tinkering on the car again! :thumb:
 
HUGE update on this build. Engine crane will be in motion soon!

I've got a few high performance parts lying around. I'll have some pictures when the block and head come back from the machine shop. I pulled the engine from a '98 Neon R/T and decided to go all out on it. No more bolt-on Eclipse for me. I'm looking to make a few more horses and hopefully be more reliable.
 
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I'm daily driving my Eclipse now that I'm not worried about whether the engine blows or not. With the new engine I'm building, I'm taking things very seriously. Corners will not be cut and nothing will be re-used unless it is rebuilt or machined. Hopefully the engine will be completely sealed, and make more power!

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I picked up my head and block from the machine shop today.

I had them mill the head as much as they possibly could. It was milled until the machine was right on top of the intake valves. I also had them weld the plugs closed so it could handle higher stress levels.

The block is bored 0.20" over, electronically honed, and resurfaced.

Soon I will get the block painted and start the assembly.

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