Also when the car got to temp I tried to do my ISC position but when I turned the BISS screw the value didn’t change. It stayed at 120 so I put it back in the same spot it was in.

Hi guys, I finally got my car running and idling with no surging and no CELs.

Today I boost leak tested and smoke tested to 15 psi. My wastegate is only 12 and that's what I plan on running for now so I can drive my car and enjoy since I haven't gotten to drive it since I got it, which was a year and half ago.

Mods are: Walbro 450, FIC 1250, hy35 with a Morrison Fab O2 downpipe, ECMLink speed density, Mitsubishi MDP style MAP, ARP studs, OEM composite head gasket, all new gaskets, aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure at 42psi, AEM EUGO wideband.

I'm not really looking to turn it up but just to be able to cruise it around. Also I recently cleaned my O2 sensor and did a free air calibration test cause I may have forgot, won't lie but anyway at idle my gauge is reading around 11.2-12.1 but mostly in the 11 AFRs. But on ECMLink its logging at 14.1-14.8 so I don't know which one to believe really.

Also any advice really helps first car I built so I'm still learning as I go so thanks in advance for the help!

Sounds like you need to input the correct injector deadtime values, have you already done that? If you have, then you may need to adjust at global fuel to compensate.
Is your car a 2g? I assume so since your fuel pressure is set as high as it is. 1g- 38psi and 2g- 43.5psi IIRC.

Your map sensor still doesn't appear to be working correctly.

It's reading a constant number. Your narrowband O2 isn't cycling either. It might be stuck in open loop.

ThunderChild said:

Sounds like you need to input the correct injector deadtime values, have you already done that? If you have, then you may need to adjust at global fuel to compensate.
Is your car a 2g? I assume so since your fuel pressure is set as high as it is. 1g- 38psi and 2g- 43.5psi IIRC.

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I did put the global and dead times that the injectors came with in and it was idling around 10-11 so I lowered global dead times and got it to 12.5 AFRs and yes sir, it's a 2g GSX.

Vegas smith said:

Your map sensor still doesn't appear to be working correctly.

It's reading a constant number. Your narrowband O2 isn't cycling either. It might be stuck in open loop.

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How would I get my map sensor to read properly since I went the Mitsubishi MDP style? And how would I get my narrow band to start cycling? Sorry if these are like newbie questions I never played but really wanna learn with ECMLink or any tuning software thanks for the replys

byAzon said:

How would I get my map sensor to read properly since I went the Mitsubishi MDP style? And how would I get my narrow band to start cycling? Sorry if these are like newbie questions I never played but really wanna learn with ECMLink or any tuning software thanks for the replys

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Under the ECU inputs tab, you checked the lock MDP. Perhaps that's the issue? I've never tuned a 2g so maybe not. Uncheck that and see what happens.

so i did unlock the mpd and it didnt really make a diffrence and i let it get to temp and it didnt really change anything.

To answer your original question-
If this is an older AEM Wideband, you need to set it up as Linear and manually enter the proper voltage values to get ECMLink to match up with what the face of the gauge reads.

Gofer made a great video showing how to do this. Can be found on youtube.

Also leave MDP locked if you are not using the stock MDP sensor anymore. Sounds like you replaced the MDP sensor located on top of the plenum with a MAP sensor correct?

I would:
- Use Baro channel for the MAP sensor
- Hook your wideband up to the rear O2 input
- Re install the the factory narrowband (Front O2)
- And then you will have the MDP channel open to log something useful someday when you get there

If nothing else, assuming the injector data is correct, focus on learning how to use WB factor to dial in your SD table (once you get it logging accurately)

EVLGSX said:

To answer your original question-
If this is an older AEM Wideband, you need to set it up as Linear and manually enter the proper voltage values to get ECMLink to match up with what the face of the gauge reads.

Gofer made a great video showing how to do this. Can be found on youtube.

Also leave MDP locked if you are not using the stock MDP sensor anymore. Sounds like you replaced the MDP sensor located on top of the plenum with a MAP sensor correct?

I would:
- Use Baro channel for the MAP sensor
- Hook your wideband up to the rear O2 input
- Re install the the factory narrowband (Front O2)
- And then you will have the MDP channel open to log something useful someday when you get there

If nothing else, assuming the injector data is correct, focus on learning how to use WB factor to dial in your SD table (once you get it logging accurately)

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So I do have a rear O2 in as well but I did notice yesterday someone before me was playing around with the wiring so I wonder if that’s why it won’t cycle to the rear.

And just a question that I’m generally curious what would switching around my O2 sensors do?

I’ll definitely watch that video about adjusting my wide band so it reads the same thank you for answering that question! And when you're talking about the baro channel your talking about switching it so it shows my MAP sensor instead of baro? Cause I have my Omni 4 bar being displayed which yes it’s on top on the manifold.

Short term and Long term fuel trims are high. I like to adjust the global (use the FIC injector settings that were with the 1250's) to get the STFT's within +-5%. Your ECU is having to add fuel so adjust the global to a little bit less negative number and try to bring the STFT's down to as close to zero as you can get.
Just trying to help out as it is what I would do.
Marty

byAzon said:

So I do have a rear O2 in as well but I did notice yesterday someone before me was playing around with the wiring so I wonder if that’s why it won’t cycle to the rear.

And just a question that I’m generally curious what would switching around my O2 sensors do?

I’ll definitely watch that video about adjusting my wide band so it reads the same thank you for answering that question! And when you're talking about the baro channel your talking about switching it so it shows my MAP sensor instead of baro? Cause I have my Omni 4 bar being displayed which yes it’s on top on the manifold.

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Honestly, before you go much further with this, you need to spend hours, reading, taking notes, and learning more about what your trying to do. We can help you once your in the ballpark, but you are so far out right now, its inefficient for us to explain every little thing.

Go to the ECMLink forums and read. Its going to take some doing. You gotta want it. But its worth it.

If you are serious and you want to do this, you will be back in no time asking questions that make sense.

You will get better help when it is clear that you have put in some effort as well.

Taking a quick peak at the log I see a lot wrong honestly.

Your ISC position is at 8, should be around 30. Fuel trims are threw the roof, meaning car is thinking its lean so adding a ton of fuel. That's why your wideband is showing rich because ECU is adding max fuel it can.

TPS is off should be .63v at idle and 5v at wot.

Your MAP sensor appears to be locked in vacuum at -20.3in. At idle ignore the wideband and even cruse turning honestly. Tune off the fuel trims you want them within 5% of zero. This is the confusing part. Your wideband says its rich so you will think I need to pull fuel. That is wrong the fuel trims say its lean. The car actually needs more fuel at idle. What fuel is the car on?

I see you have simulate wideband turned on but it is not simulating. I'm going to guess your front O2 pegged at .20V is a big part of the problem to start with. For some reason I cannot see closed loop operation. Is it going into closed loop?

Sorry for long post just a lot I see off.

byAzon said:

here two idles and added all those other values

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I know this is an old thread but just wondering if you ever got it running right?