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68hta external wg setup

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Got an email from Jim and he’s telling me it clears the p/s pump on their mockup engine so I’m confused. It has to be the fp manifold or the 8cm housing that’s pushing it towards the drivers side. Soooo, we’re going back to external dump for an extra $110 :notgood:. Hopefully I’ll get it back next week. Tbh, I was getting board of recirculating wg. She gonna be rowdy again :sneaky:
 
Got an email from Jim and he’s telling me it clears the p/s pump on their mockup engine so I’m confused. It has to be the fp manifold or the 8cm housing that’s pushing it towards the drivers side. Soooo, we’re going back to external dump for an extra $110 :notgood:. Hopefully I’ll get it back next week. Tbh, I was getting board of recirculating wg. She gonna be rowdy again :sneaky:
How much interference is there?
Maybe you have a longer P/S belt that make the pump lower than usual? If so, use a shorter P/S belt may clear the interference. or maybe put a spacer between the head and exhaust manifold to push the manifold a little bit towards front.
 
How much interference is there?
Maybe you have a longer P/S belt that make the pump lower than usual? If so, use a shorter P/S belt may clear the interference. or maybe put a spacer between the head and exhaust manifold to push the manifold a little bit towards front.

I’d say about 1/8”-1/4” for clearance to access the p/s bolt. For me to access that bolt, I have to remove the wg but I can’t remove just the wg. I’d have to pull the turbo so a shorter belt won’t solve the issue. A spacer for the exhaust manifold also won’t work bc I’m still using the factory fan on the p/s and the charge pipe is too close.

Longer belt won’t work either since the pump actually touches the wg.
 
Oh ok, very strange. Yeah maybe going open dump with a different angle is the easiest way to solve.

I think it’s the easiest way to resolve this dilemma too.
 
Since there seems to be some concern about JMF's mockup accuracy... This doesn't apply to your situation since my setup is internally gated but my standard JMP recirculating IWG O2 housing puts the O2 sensor at the only possible angle where it could interfere with the alternator, so the wires coming out of the sensor hit the positive terminal on the alternator. I had to play with belt sizes to get it to fit at all but they're still pressed firmly together and rub and like you I will have disassemble quite a bit to access that terminal or the oxygen sensor, and my tension adjustment on the alternator belt is severely limited.

Any other angle or placement of the O2 bung and it would have had miles of clearance on all sides, but this is where they decided to put it.
 
Since there seems to be some concern about JMF's mockup accuracy... This doesn't apply to your situation since my setup is internally gated but my standard JMP recirculating IWG O2 housing puts the O2 sensor at the only possible angle where it could interfere with the alternator, so the wires coming out of the sensor hit the positive terminal on the alternator. I had to play with belt sizes to get it to fit at all but they're still pressed firmly together and rub and like you I will have disassemble quite a bit to access that terminal or the oxygen sensor, and my tension adjustment on the alternator belt is severely limited.

Any other angle or placement of the O2 bung and it would have had miles of clearance on all sides, but this is where they decided to put it.

In your case, I’d take a few millimeters off of the o2 bung. There has to be something up with their mock up engine then
 
Got the o2 housing back and it’s in a much better spot. Only problem now is where to route the dump since space is limited, so I decided to put it under the turbine housing. Thought about hood exit but decided against it. Too many cons imo so I cut the flange and need to get it welded and bent. Hopefully Monday I can get get all this done.

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