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Sjd6795

Proven Member
614
121
May 14, 2014
Wilsonville, Oregon
So I recently rebuilt my throttle body and it will still leaking after putting it back on the car. Well today I removed the throttle body and used a dremel with a soft wire brush to clean and even out both sides of the throttle body, intake manifold, and throttle body elbow. I also placed silicone high temp oil resistance RTV on both sides of the new gaskets and bolted it back together. After 10 hours for the silicone to set the car has no leaks coming from the throttle body anymore! During this 10 hour wait I also decided to rebuild my turbo because it had horrible shaft play and would burn oil. After the rebuild it was so stiff it would not even turn freely I literally had to put force just to get it to spin. I took it apart about 3-4 times and still got the same result, I used assembly lube on all the parts. I have ZERO shaft play absolutely none, and was like I just need to bolt it up to the car and see what happens. At first it would not boost until about 3k RPM and would get stuck at 0 vac/psi after a pull. After a few more miles of driving it started spinning and working great and boost just fine and doesn't burn a drop of oil anymore!

Now... all of these improvements came with some cons. My idle seems to ride around 1.6k and will surge once after pushing in the clutch from about 3k rpm then stays steady at 1.6k rpm. Would my TPS position have anything to do with this? I didn't touch anything on the throttle body besides the TPS and changing the shaft seals of course. Before rebuilding the turbo I would see about 15 psi on my boost gauge which is what the car was tuned at. Now I only see about 11-12 PSI, could this be because of an exhaust manifold leak? Or could it be because I no longer have a throttle body leak and it doesn't have to try as hard to build boost? I have no idea, but my intercooler piping is leak free as well. Exhaust manifold is my only thing I am not sure on.
 
Yes the tps will need to be put back into position. So personally id get the exhaust manifold leak fixed and get the tps adjusted right. Then report back to us.
I used paint and scribe marks to get the TPS pretty much in the same spot. If it's off it's barely off by anything at all. Exhaust manifold leak might be a while, I start my work week tomorrow and need to research on it more. New gaskets are installed and a brand new FP manifold so unsure why it leaks. Bolts are are torqued accordingly from inside to outside. I just want my idle to be around 800-900 I will let the car idle and play around with the TPS and see if that helps. If not what could another option be?
 
You need to get a ohm/volt meter on the TPS right away. It's like .49 something or another. I'll link Jafro's video when I find it.

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I suggest you watch this video entirely. Then watch all of his other videos.
The part you specifically need now starts at 3.50 in the video
 
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I suggest you watch this video entirely. Then watch all of his other videos.
The part you specifically need now starts at 3.50 in the video

I may of missed this part in the video, but using a multi-meter how would I check the voltage on the TPS? Where would I make connection, I'm assuming the TPS plug needs to be connected but that doesn't give me access to the wires for the multi-meter correct?
 
Try unplugging the tps and see if the surge stops. And that will give you an idea if its not set right. And the flange on the turbo housing could be warped. Also idk if you are using the stock bolts but dont use the stainless arp bolts because they will loosen up after a few heat cycles.
 
Try unplugging the tps and see if the surge stops. And that will give you an idea if its not set right. And the flange on the turbo housing could be warped. Also idk if you are using the stock bolts but dont use the stainless arp bolts because they will loosen up after a few heat cycles.
Surge only happens once during a RPM drop by pushing in the clutch, probably just catching itself from falling. After that idle is constant at 1.6k and doesn't surge. I used the stock long bolt and just picked up two short bolts from lowes in the meantime to get it bolted down. I did notice that they get lose after a while but I have kept a constant check on them and re tighten as necessary. I will purchase two evo short bolts and solve this though.

Also I just noticed while reading another thread this connector, what are they for? Mine are unplugged on the firewall and have the same blue/black ones.

Where can I find these washers?
https://www.extremepsi.com/store/OEM-Turbo-to-Manifold-Washers-Mitsubishi-Eclipse-90-99.html
I am not paying $7 for one washer. To get 8 new ones would cost $54 for washers alone.
 

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Sjd, what rebuild kit did you use for the 14b? Did you make sure the thrust collar isn't grinding against and getting stuck against the machined housing edge? I recently rebuilt my 16G using the superback improved thrust collar and found that the rotating assembly was sticking against the housing, could barely turn it by hand like you said. I ground it off and it spun freely. I also noticed that just using pure assembly lube was too thick for it and had to mix it with some engine oil to make it spin a bit more freely. Also, did you remember to prime the turbo with oil upon initial startup?

As for the lower pressure, I think you're right on the part about the turbo having to work harder with boost leaks. It tends to overcompensate and thus you're seeing more boost at the gauge. Now that the system is apparently leak-free, it should work as it should, boosting the set amount (either based on the stock WG or the boost controller if you're running one).
 
Just to make sure, does the throttle cable have slack in it when you put the trottle body back on?

Throttle cable feels fine. It doesn't move the throttle body until I put pressure on the pedal. I never messed with the adjustment on that. Going to try adjusting my BISS but I'm reading that the 2G needs a $1800 scan tool?? Other people are saying to just let the car warm up all the way and adjust the screw.

Sjd, what rebuild kit did you use for the 14b? Did you make sure the thrust collar isn't grinding against and getting stuck against the machined housing edge? I recently rebuilt my 16G using the superback improved thrust collar and found that the rotating assembly was sticking against the housing, could barely turn it by hand like you said. I ground it off and it spun freely. I also noticed that just using pure assembly lube was too thick for it and had to mix it with some engine oil to make it spin a bit more freely. Also, did you remember to prime the turbo with oil upon initial startup?

As for the lower pressure, I think you're right on the part about the turbo having to work harder with boost leaks. It tends to overcompensate and thus you're seeing more boost at the gauge. Now that the system is apparently leak-free, it should work as it should, boosting the set amount (either based on the stock WG or the boost controller if you're running one).

I used a rebuild kit from Kinugawa, I did notice some parts are different sizes from what I took out of the turbo. However I measured with a caliper and the OD are all the same. It doesn't feel like anything is rubbing. It feels like a smooth stiffness, no audible noise.

Adjusted my BISS screw. I didn't ground anything out or unplug my ISC motor. I got it from 1.6k down to 900 which was as low as it would go. Still having issues with my turbo though, it frees up after driving it but during first start the turbo doesn't spin at all. I really don't have time or another car to use to get to work at the moment. I can't pull the turbo until Wednesday when I am on my weekend, since the turbo frees up and starts spinning shortly after driving will I be ok to drive it until then? I understand it may run rich some but I am not sure exactly.
 
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No you need somthing like ecmlink or evo scan to adjust it properly. If you dont want to spend alot on ecmlink then id suggest the evo scan because its 30$ if i remember right amd you can get a cheap (12$) obd2 cable off of ebay. Just make sure its got ftdi on it.
 
No you need somthing like ecmlink or evo scan to adjust it properly. If you dont want to spend alot on ecmlink then id suggest the evo scan because its 30$ if i remember right amd you can get a cheap (12$) obd2 cable off of ebay. Just make sure its got ftdi on it.

I have a black box ecu I just need the tactrix cables. But at the moment I dont see a need for all that. Just turning the screw solved my idle, cold starts are perfect, operating temp idle is perfect, and no surges. Just finished driving to work and had no issues with the turbo and the car felt awesome. Drove better then it has since getting it. This was right after I adjusted the BISS screw, I couldn't get any lower then around 850-900 but it seems to like idling around there.

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Ok, I'm going to express my concern for your turbo.
It should, in no way, be tight to turn or take several seconds+ to spool up or start spinning.

Either the wrong parts were used, the shaft was over torqued, or something is bent/broken. It needs to come off, be torn down and inspected carefully for damage, and then rebuilt with a quality kit and preferably VSR balanced. I just worry that something may already be damaged beyond repair...

Past that, check here for biss adjustment.
CLICK
 
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Ok, I'm going to express my concern for your turbo.
It should, in no way, be tight to turn or take several seconds+ to spool up or start spinning.

Either the wrong parts were used, the shaft was
Ok, I'm going to express my concern for your turbo.
It should, in no way, be tight to turn or take several seconds+ to spool up or start spinning.

Either the wrong parts were used, the shaft was over torqued, or something is bent/broken. It needs to come off, be torn down and inspected carefully for damage, and then rebuilt with a quality kit and preferably VSR balanced. I just worry that something may already be damaged beyond repair...

Past that, check here for biss adjustment.
CLICK

Used the td05 14b rebuild kit from kinugawa, and also made paint Mark's where everything was taken apart at, Mitsubishi turbos are part balanced so it shouldnt matter to much there. I follow torque spec on the shaft and no parts internally are damaged and it is clean of debris. I taken it apart about 4 times during the rebuild and nothing stuck out. I rebuilt an old FP 18g 6 years ago and that turbo is still installed and working till this day. Soon as I get my tactrix cables I plan to install a 16g anyways so I may just go with it for now. Like I said the car ran great on the way to work today so :idontknow:. As far as BISS went I've read several post that said to just turn the screw so I did and it fixed my surge and high idle and havent noticed any side effects so not sure why some have issues with needing to ground the isc.
 
I agree with @ThunderChild the turbo shouldnt need force to spin. Sounds like a bent turbine shaft to be honest. you dont want to just send it and have the possibility of it damaging your motor down the road..

That could also be why you're building less boost than before. Because its got drag on the shaft. The fixed boost leaks would just make it build boost faster and hold.
 
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That could also be why you're building less boost than before. Because its got drag on the shaft. The fixed boost leaks would just make it build boost faster and hold.
That's true, well maybe time for a new turbo. I dont see a reason to fix such a small 14b anymore.
 
So i may have found out your problem. I dont know what kit you got, but i bought a cheap kit as well for a 14b. And found out that the collar is to short so it just lock it down when tightening the compressor nut. Figured id give it a shot but oh well. Ill buy a kit from turbo lab.
Here is the comparison
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I don’t know where this RTV craze started but all you need is a quality gasket, a flat/clean surface and the correct torque.

You need to do a boostleak test first. Send that turbo off or buy a new. I don’t see that lasting long at all.
 
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I don’t know where this RTV craze started but all you need is a quality gasket, a flat/clean surface and the correct torque.

It was leaking from the gaskets after rebuilding so I took it back off used a soft wire brush on a dremel to clean the surfaces. Just enough to get debris off, it didn't leave any scratches. I then put high temp oil resistant RTV on either side of the gasket just to be sure I didn't have to take it back off. Unsure if the RTV helped after cleaning the surfaces or not but I wanted to make sure. One of the throttlebody vfaqs I think it was the Canadian DSM one mentions using RTV if it still leaks.

You need to do a boostleak test first. Send that turbo off or buy a new. I don’t see that lasting long at all.

Turbo is working perfect now, spools up great and on start up it freely spins. The stiffness seemed to work itself out and has no visible damaged to the turbine blades.
 
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That’s what you want to use on all aluminum surfaces and can be used on about everything else. It removes everything and doesn’t scar the metal causing leaks. With the turbo comment I am saying that just because it “loosened” up and builds boost fine the likelihood of it lasting is small.

Interesting I may pick some up for future use, thanks.
Turbo still has zero shaft play and doesnt burn oil anymore. When assembling I did go heavy on assembly lube, the stuff I used was green in color. Maybe it took a bit to flush it out. I'll see how things turn out, so far only positives.
 
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