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1G Replacement fuel tanks for 1G FWD?

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97egl

Proven Member
706
434
Feb 6, 2014
Brownsburg, Indiana
Maybe I am just an idiot and can;t search correctly but I cannot find any replacement fuel tanks for a 1G FWD car. Do they not sell replacement tanks for our cars? I really don't want a junkyard tank as mine is rusted to hell inside and likely that one in the junkyard will be just as bad.

Thanks guys
 
CLR is acidic, so it will dissolve the rust, but muratic is quite a bit stronger (in fact, you need to dilute it before adding it to the tank), so basically same thing but more effective. Also means take more caution with it.
Since I'm not really familiar with the FWD tanks, how is the access through the openings? Can you reach your hand or some kind of tool (like a screwdriver or wire brush) all around the inside and down into the baffles? With AWD I can only reach about halfway into the tank. That's why the chain and screws: it's the only way. My memory of the illustrations of the FWD setup in the FSM and parts catalog is that the opening is in the middle, and the tank sort of gets wider from there down.
Something to consider before you waste much time in a tank that is near to failing is taking a small hammer or similar percussion maker, and sort of ping around the tank, especially the lower half, to see if there are any wierd "soft" spots that might indicate that rust is sort of tunneling in. Normal steel has a pretty distinct elastic vibe when struck, so you should hear right away if there is a more dull sound. Patching at that point could be an option, but again, a lot of work when there must be a better starting point out there.
Lastly, I saw the Por-15 stuff as well. Don't know how well that works; it costs less, but I wouldn't draw a conclusion from that alone. The other "eastwood" product might even be the exact same formula, though it comes in a kit with the other witch's brew chemicals, which was handy.

To be clear, I meant tapping the exterior of the tank to look for rust-weakening to start, not the inside.
 
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So the crap inside the tank turns out not to be rust. It's actually built up old gas decay crap. I sprayed around with a pressure washer and the stuff comes off with a bit of spraying and the tank coating can be seen underneath so I think it's salvageable. Problem I'm running into is there's no way to spray off the back side of the baffles or the back of the tank. Looking for suggestions on what might break down the gas crap. Water and dish soap made a lot of bubbles but didn't just melt the crap off. Maybe muratic acid will take it off?

The clean baffle in the pictures here is the same baffle that was in the 2nd picture I posted previously
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Have you ever thought about a lot of CLR? Cleans Calcium Lime and Rust? IDK how it is on rust but it will clean the Calcium out of radiators!.
Also, if you guys haven't worked out anything, send me a PM and we can see what its worth if I can get it out for you. It is behind my garage. I'd be willing to pull the cover to look inside for a visual. How do you get into it for a look? All of my running cars are AWD, sorry for a dumb question.
Let me know.
Marty

To answer your question on the FWD tank you actually have to drop the tank to pull the pump. And the bolts will probably break. Mine weren't that rusty and I soaked them in PB Blaster for a week.

Don't be sorry for the question.... I'm sorry I'm not AWD. Seriously I wish I was AWD:thumb:

To be clear, I meant tapping the exterior of the tank to look for rust-weakening to start, not the inside.

The baffles keep me from even being able to see the back half of the tank. There is no way to scrub any of it out unfortunately.
 
Put E85 or 100 in it and let it soak. I bet that crap will break down with alcohol ROFL :idontknow:
 
I actually recommend oven cleaner or engine “gunk” to dissolve remnants of gas. Looks like your cause is less hopeless than at first seemed. Still, something corroded your gauge float to end up remaining in the tank, no?
Can you at least inspect inside the baffles to know when they get clean?
Consider also cleaning out the various supply and return piping while you’re at it.
 
That sounds like a solid Idea to use e85. If it doesn't work at least it's cheap too. Have heard stories of guys switching to e85 and having issues with plugged fuel filters from it cleaning crap from their tanks.

Is there a certain brand of oven cleaner you'd recommend Mech Addict? As far as the float it is a separate piece on the FWD tank and has to be taken out of a different hole which i just hadn't pulled yet so that's why it was in the picture. To see the back of the baffles I'm thinking ill use a long "dentist" type mirror or a stick... Best Idea i've had so far anyways.

Plan was to upgrade to 8AN supply line and replace the return line. I already have a walbro 450 pump to replace my pump since it wasn't working so I think the best thing to do now would be to just upgrade the lines
 
The oven cleaner I’d use is Easy-Off heavy duty. It’s the original one made with lye (strong base). Yellow can, I believe. The lye (sodium hydroxide) reacts with the grease and petroleum residues, and actually makes a kind of “soap”, that can dissolve in water. Don’t get the “no-fume”, formulas; they use something else, not as good.

E85 may work, too. Curious to know how long it would need to soak to loosen that junk.

None of these ideas involve trivial waste disposal considerations. At some point your pouring/flushing that crap out, and then it goes..... depends on where you live, I suppose.
 
If you have mechanical skills just make one. Ive done it, its not hard at all. Put it in the stock location, uses factory fill and sending unit. Make it out of aluminum, use a real good welder. It needs to be anodized as well.
 
I'm in exact same situation. The 1G FWD gas tank is like finding the holy grail. Anybody have a FWD tank or parts car in Ontario Canada?
 
I will buy next week 1.8 4G37 68kW in perfect condition but fuel tank is missing. There aren't donors Eclipse in my country Czech Republic, Europe at this time.

Is there some backup solution? For example to use some fuel tank from another car with different shape but which it fit in? For example from 2g?
 
I will buy next week 1.8 4G37 68kW in perfect condition but fuel tank is missing. There aren't donors Eclipse in my country Czech Republic, Europe at this time.

Is there some backup solution? For example to use some fuel tank from another car with different shape but which it fit in? For example from 2g?
You can use one from a 1g non turbo 2.0L. They are the same.
 
Thanks. I found only fuel tank from 2.0 turbo. It is different, but can fit with some adaptions?
 
You guys are scaring me. My '92 Talon TSi AWD been sitting around for several years and the engine probably hasn't run in 2-3 years. There's 3-4 gallons in the tank, old obviously, and as I've slowly been fixing and restoring the car I'm gradually approaching the moment when I'll have to look inside and see how bad it is. Given how hard it is to find decent 1G AWD tanks, my only near-term option to dump the old gas, hope it's not too filthy inside, and clean it as best I can.

Nothing on the car is really all THAT bad, other than the brakes, which were rusted and seized and which I've been cleaning and restoring, and lots of rust on the knuckles and control arms that was mostly surface and scale with nothing approaching holes or structural damage (that I could tell). So I'm hoping that the tank is similarly in need of cleaning but not THAT bad.

Actually, my real concern with the tank is damage that was done to it when a local garage tried to raise the rear end by placing the floor jack under the tank instead of the rear diff, which dented it several inches in and up. The actually managed to lift the rear end a bit before dropping it down again. The tank is still intact, absolutely no leaks or creases that look like they could leak, but the dent is clearly visible.

Could that have destroyed its structural integrity, making it unsafe to drive? But, it looks pretty solid (these tanks are built like tanks!), and tapping it from the outside feels quite solid. I wonder if it's possible to force it back into shape from the inside, either mechanically or with high-pressure air. Unfortunately the dented area's pretty far from the pump opening.

Here's a photo:

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How bad does it look? Safe to drive? Should I have a shop look at it (which would require either a tow or getting it back on the road and risking operating it)?

Also, what do you folks do with old, bad gas? Normally I'd take it to a local HAZMAT disposal site, but the pandemic has shut them down till next year. Do service stations take it? If not, can I pour a gallon or two at a time into another car with a near-full tank of fresh gas and burn it off that way? We actually have a beat up old Camry, also a '92, that's on its last legs and only driven a few times a month, so if it fouls the injectors or valves it wouldn't make it all that much worse. Would a landscaping company take it for free for use with their mowers and blowers?
 
Agreed that AWD tanks are scarce. You’re dent looks ugly, but it’s not under the pump, so likely fine. They’re relatively easy to remove, once the gas is drained. Best not to use old gas for any other engines, though 3 gallons is a lot to use for starting campfires. You might call your state EPA/DEQ (?) and ask how to find a different place to accept hazwaste.
 
For anyone else dealing with this, but with actual rust, electrolysis works great for removing rust! All you need is a car battery charger, some jumper cables and some salt (or other options) to make a more conductive solution with water.
 
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