The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support ExtremePSI

ForcedFour SmartShift 100.1 review PART 2 of 2

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
11,531
8,199
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Here is Part 2 of the Smart Shift 100.1 review, if you haven't seen Part 1, go to....
http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/forcedfour-smartshift-100-1-review-part-1-of-2.513993/

I should add that the software that comes with this product allows you to make your own shift map for automatic mode, read and clear TCU codes and view and calibrate both your TPS and VSS signals for accurate performance.
Thanks for reading!

Shortcut wiring: (thanks to member @amsrn13)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

  • SmartShift 100.1 Tuners Write up Part2.docx
    4.6 MB · Views: 692
Last edited:
I have yet to read these as i have to do it on my comp at home, but does this still allow you to use paddle shifters?

Also how easy is the install? I see the diagrams with relays and my wiring skills are not great but im decent for basic stuff! Is it fairly staright forward? I have the roadsurge kit to be installed and im thinking this might be the better choice overall for adjustments and such since you can what i read change everything!
I believe your the one on youtube when i search it but not 100% sure, the videos are short and not much showing of the shifting itself which is a shame as i would like to see more on the shifting side,

Any help to answer this would be great,

Thanks Bobby
 
It is a pretty simple install. I didn't have to use the relay's in my install, but it is still very well drawn out and simple. YES paddle shift is optional and so are rachet shifters. I will go out and get a longer, daylight video and post it up. The car is pretty quiet so it may be hard to hear but you can see the display changing. That display even works with my factory TCU if I use it, so pretty cool there too. It really shifts just like the original TCU except I have it set to shift harder (more line pressure in each individual gear change, another feature), which makes it feel like it has a shift kit. When I figured out the factory shift maps and plugged its MPH values into the shift map, it really started acting "normal". I have it set to shift harder to keep the wear and heat down on the transmission. But you have "soft shift" which is infinitely variable from 10 to 90, I believe, for line pressure %
. Any more questions, I will be glad to answer! Thanks for reading.
 
If you run it as standalone, won't there be a CEL on your dash?

Is the upshift and downshift manual controls only available with the Smart Handheld option?
 
No the hand held is part of all of the boxes, the automatic shift function is the unique thing. No cel on my dash. The only things that no longer work are the OD button with the dash lights, the Power/Economy button and lights and the temperature light for the transmission. The dash lights could work, but it would be a big chore for such a little thing. OD can be locked out if you want on the hand held unit and on the software if you desire (like at the track).
 
Last edited:
I think i will try call them or email how ever they like to be contacted to get a run down from them on what i need to make my setup work,

I run a wireless paddle shift system so it has to work eith that, in theory it should as its 2 wires for the shift and the signal will still be seen, plus i want to know exactly what i need to buy to get the full kit worming as it should, i like the feature on the tcu control and code reading as thatsbalways a good thing and the fact you can change maps in the tcu!

Also in notmal tcu mode you can still alter that so your basically flashing the stock tcu to go to your setting and then at a flip of a switch (assuming its a switch)??? Correct me if i am wrong here. It flios over to your other settings in the control box!
 
Yes, with the optional TCU kit, you get a toggle switch and 4 diodes to wire in (I believe they go in the solenoid wires so the 2 TCU's don't get confused, I may be wrong on those as I didn't have to use them, YET) so that you can switch on the fly from the factory TCU to the Shiftbox. Does your wireless paddle set up send a signal to a mother unit or controller? The paddle shift feature on the SmartShift does use wires that I have not needed but if your controller can send the same signal, which I assume would probably be ground, then it should work if wired into the paddle wires. Don't hold me to it, and email Shawn at [email protected], that is how he likes to communicate. I will answer any questions I can, but that one I think he will explain to you.
Tell me a little more about how your wireless paddles work and where did you come up with them?
 
i shall email him and see what he says,

my paddle kit or rather whole steering wheel has a sender unit that sents the signal to my receiving unit thats hard wired! all it does is sends the signal so i think it will be fine as the box tells when it see's the signal to do something!

i got a company here in the UK to modify my steering wheel I bought so i have 8 channels to use, 2 for the paddles and 6 for anything else like wipers, lights, indicators or what ever it can hold load wise! cool stuff and means i can take my wheel inside at night if my have to leave my car outside for any reason
 
Very NICE! Yes I believe your setup will work with the ForcedFour system since your receiver does the switching work. I would be taking that wheel inside every day!
If anything else comes to your mind, just ask.
Marty
 
its garaged most of its life anyway so its safe there, I may ask you since you done all this but I shall message Forced first and go from there,

Thanks for your replys
 
I had a request for a little more video of the unit shifting so here it is. The rattle you hear is just my shifter wiggling back and forth, its something I haven't dealt with yet.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Normal driving videos for those that wish to view. This is the SmartShift 100.1 doing IT'S thing on its own. No manual shifting involved.
 
No the hand held is part of all of the boxes, the automatic shift function is the unique thing. No cel on my dash. The only things that no longer work are the OD button with the dash lights, the Power/Economy button and lights and the temperature light for the transmission. The dash lights could work, but it would be a big chore for such a little thing. OD can be locked out if you want on the hand held unit and on the software if you desire (like at the track).
I'm doing a manual to auto swap .
With the 100.1 is possible to use the auto trans without a shifter or I still need it .
Sorry about the confusion in new in the auto swap
 
You would have to have a shifter to put it into gear, park and reverse as the smartshift can't do that. BUT, really just about anything to move the cable forwards and backwards would probably work.
 
Im going to start this project and tring to make it as plug and play as i can.. i have a dead tcu connector ill be using to plug into the tcu wiring

Here is what i have... just need to be certain. I would like power and economy mode to switch maps and keep overdrive if at all possible just confused a bit on some of it

Ok just realized pin 46 is tach... just not sure about speed sensor input and if the sport economy wiring is correct...
 

Attachments

  • Screenshot_20181124-113524_Gallery.jpg
    Screenshot_20181124-113524_Gallery.jpg
    144.7 KB · Views: 164
Last edited:
Not sure if anyone hsd experience with this but i installed mine this weekend... everything seems to work fine but it will go into limp mode at a stop... no codes at all but computer gives me an error... hoping someone might be able to help.. i emailed forcedfour on the error but havent heard back yet
 

Attachments

  • 20181215_170516.jpg
    20181215_170516.jpg
    781.5 KB · Views: 133
Looks like i never replied but the issue was a bad box... unfortunately havent puy the new one in as of yet so no fun for me
 
I am going to have to send mine in for a firmware update while the car is down (now). I am hoping to have all the new features and a good functioning box for shifts when I am at the track. The car will be a handful to drive so I want it to do the shifting for me! :D
 
Is 4th gear acting like NEUTRAL? If so it is the end clutches. Tell me more about no 4th gear.
 
Here is a good starting point for all new and current Smartshift 100.1 users. Additional settings after I had my firmware upgraded in the fall of 2019.
These are all MY settings but work out pretty well. Pay attention to the 95% upshift column and lower the Sport map values there if your car doesn't like to rev 8k. Also, if you are building your OWN MAPS, never have your lines overlap and then tune your box from there. Just throwing out some tips for users that I know about. There is also a "stall up" mode now, that when enabled, will allow the user to stall up in 2nd "under certain conditions" so they don't drive thru the brakes at the starting line. I believe that it can be used in conjuction with the brake pedal switch or the E-brake switch to throw the box back down into 1st but I haven't played with it to see how it works. I am simply passing on info that Shawn share with me.
Here is his quote to me about that function:
"It detects stall up condition when the right conditions are met and can be used to put the transmission in 2nd gear to make it easier to hold the car still or turn on an output for use however you want. Some transmissions use that output for a dump valve, but the w4a33 doesn’t work with such devices."
I hope this is all helpful. :thumb:
Marty
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Great write up! Any idea when the stall up feature was added. My firmware should be a year old almost to the day... but its not in the car for me to check yet
 
Fairly recently. I found it and emailed Shawn to see how it worked but didn't get a long winded explanation....
 
Well guys and gals, I HAD to add this clip so you can see the Smartshift 100.1 in Manual mode with Auto Upshift enabled at my RPM set points. I had to ask it to shift about 400 RPM EARLY or a little more in 1st, as my motor zings thru that band fast so set your Auto Upshift points really low, put it in MANUAL mode and TEST it. Like 4000 RPM WOT shifts as a test. If you have set it up correctly it will do that and you should progress up your scale. My rev limiter is set at 8750 and I've hit it before in 1st. I set up my car so she shifts at 8500 (7900 on my auto upshift 1-2 shift box) and 8200 in 2nd and 3rd (with some lead time in those also). I can rev 9k but just dont know if it will make a faster time. My start sucks since I have no boost and no NOS to get me off the line but this video shows how I put her in MANUAL mode with Auto Upshift enabled and rely on the SmartShift to do its thing so I can drive.
I hope you laugh at me but enjoy the way the car works....when it finally "lifts" and is in boost, chasing people down.
She really is quick. 117+ thru the traps and a 3.3 60' means there is alot to be gained!
Enjoy!
Marty (Pops)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

And

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Last edited:
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top