Well, I would for right now. If we can get the ole girl to fire up, then maybe you can do some switching as I know you mentioned wanting to stay stock appearing, and I get it.

I just got my Speed Density cable yesterday from ECMTuning so I can put my stock 90 GSX on SD.
I have the GM Omni 4 bar, GM Flex Fuel sensor and GM IAT (waiting for my buddy to get the bung welded in the TB elbow, should be tomorrow), so I am doing the same thing as you are. I have my 2 other DSM's running on SD also, so you can tell I like it.

My deal with SD is, if you have any boost leaks or blow off a coupler, the car will still get you to your destination. On a MAF, it would buck and not want to drive well at all so I switch all of my cars. That very scenario has happened to me before. I still got home, just N/A.

I wonder why the Mitsubishi style ones not working right and I’m still a little confused if you wanted me to change the whole sensor to the gm bar or just change the setting in ECMLink? I’m not to concerned about staying stock I just thought the Mitsubishi style would work better since it was for a stock location on the manifold. I’ll definitely get the log around 3 and I’ll post it. It fires up I just can’t get it to stay alive when it’s at 1k

Using our SD plug-n-play Cable

If you're using our SD plug-n-play cable with our IAT and 4-bar MAP sensors, then the IAT sensor will be connected to the IAT input and the OmniPower 4-bar MAP sensor will be connected to the Baro input.

I just found this info on their speed density wiki page and I believe I tried to do this and the car wouldn’t wanna start but I’m gonna try a second time just to double check.

Here two idles and added all those other values

mod list: walbro 450, 1250 fic injectors, adjustable fuel pressure regulator, speed density with mistu style map, hy35 turbo with aem uego afr gauge, ecmlink v3, fmic
fresh start from the build and i just installed the hy35 and it idled fine for 20 minutes and shut the car off and went home for the day and came back the next day to adjust the isc and now it doesn't wanna stay running at all and just runs straight lean every time i was hoping someone can check my log and show me and point me in the right direction. first car ive had with adjustable ecu so still learning.. thanks for any help

MAF or Speed Density car? I can usually wiz thru SD but fumble around with a MAF car is why I asked.

It’s Extreme PSI speed density kit with the Mitsubshi MDP style kit #27806

Seems you are sending too much fuel, most likely improperly dialed in injectors or/and the base fuel pressure. or maybe just your wideband unit or the sensor stopped working. Anyways you are receiving almost no voltage from the wideband unit after start the engine.

I have my wideband sensor in the front O2 pin on the ECU and the power source for the wideband is coming from the radio. I also have my base fuel pressure around 44 but can come down to 42psi and I was thinking the injectors were dialed in wrong.

I can't view your log but how much vacuum does your car pull at idle? And are you running stock cams?

ishnish said:

I can't view your log but how much vacuum does your car pull at idle? And are you running stock cams?

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Yes stock cams and on vacuum I’m not to sure I was running a electric boost controller but I just took it off to sell it and haven’t switch to the mechanical gauge but I’m going to switch it over when it stops blowing 65mph winds here

Hm okay, well what does your map sensor read at idle?

1) Simulate the idle switch from the TPS
2) Either there is something wrong with your wideband and it's not reading or the car is super rich. Try zeroing out the deadtime and see if that helps. If it doesn't significantly help or cause the wideband to get closer to 14.7 then look into your wideband wiring. I know the innovate kits do not like sharing power with any other device. Consider running a dedicated, fused line from the battery for power.

I’ll check tomorrow and I’ll give the AEM gauge a dedicated wire from the battery with a inline fuse and a vacuum gauge and zero out the dead times. If I can’t figure it out how does one zero out the dead times

byAzon said:

If I can’t figure it out how does one zero out the dead times

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You just reduce the number to zero. Increasing it richens idle, lowering it leans it out for the most part.

I just looked at the log and agree with @Vegas smith . Zero out your deadtime and are these the values that FIC sent to use with those injectors? It seems like a low sweep but if is the values that they sent then they are correct. Big thanks to everyone that is helping!!!

I still have the box so I’ll double check and give that AEM gauge a dedicated wire to the battery and post a log and yes thank you everyone for the helping and giving me advice

Your wideband does have a warmup time so try turning on the car and letting it sit for about 10-15 seconds then fire her up and see if the wideband still stays super rich.

Here's the new log: but my AEM gauge is 11.3v at the power wire.
Zeroing out the dead times did help it fire up but still hard for it to idle. The AEM gauge jumps to around 14-16 when it fires up or trying to keep it alive with your foot but than coming down in RPMs it just into the 20-28

Are you sure that's the correct log? Still aren't simulating idle switch and no change in deadtime.

I’m at the car right now I’ll post a new one I thought I did the changes

i punched in my old numbers when i first put the injectors in and it idled better to full temp but idled in the 20's also and everytime I put the dead time to 0 it didn’t really like to idle

The wideband is definitely jacked up. That's why I don't like running narrowband simulation; you have no other sensor to really run the car. Idle should be about 850-900. My guess is you also have a vacuum leak as your airflowperrev is very high.

Vegas smith said:

The wideband is definitely jacked up. That's why I don't like running narrowband simulation; you have no other sensor to really run the car. Idle should be about 850-900. My guess is you also have a vacuum leak as your airflowperrev is very high.

Click to expand...

How should I go about fixing the wideband? And I’m gonna boost leak test the car again Tomarrow cause I’m at work for the rest of the day

It is probably the sensor.

I’ll email AEM and see if they can warranty the sensor cause it’s brand new first time starting it up

Could also a exhaust leak cause my o2 sensor to go all funky because I think I may have A bolt that backed out alittle

Yep it sure will. Make sure you don't have any.