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Silvr's boosted 420a

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So just a quick back story. I've owned this car since 2005. It was my dd for a about 5 or 6 years, I have been modifying it over the years. I've been auto crossing it once or twice a year for the last 7 or 8 years. A year ago the car had a Holset hy35 on it making decent power. As I got more into autox the turbo had to go, so I swapped it over to a 16g for the quicker spool.

I ran 8 events this year and ended up in 2nd on SMF. Should have taken first but I missed a few key events that killed me. The season is over now and I'm looking to make some big changes for next season. Upgrading the suspension is going to be the biggest one. I plan to add coil over sleeves and spherical top hats to the illumina struts I already have. No money in the budget for konis this year.

Here are some pics of how the car sits now.

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Looking good.

Is the bov venting into the intake do anything or just happens to be that way by chance.
 
Looking good.

Is the bov venting into the intake do anything or just happens to be that way by chance.

It just happened that way.

After working on the car last night. This is how it sits currently.

Also noticed the struts have been eating the bump stops.

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I've been doing some work over the last few weeks. Upon further inspection of the suspension, the car has pretty much been sitting on the bump stops for who knows how long. See the pic below with blue mark. That's where the strut sits with the car on the ground. So I had very little travel left in the front suspension. I'm not sure about the back yet. I don't know if it was like this when I out this set up on 12 years ago or if the springs have sagged some over the years.

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My plan moving forward will be to still put on the spherical upper mounts on this setup, that should raise the car about 1.5 inches and get it off the bump stops. The car also needs tires before next season, so konis are out for now.

I'm machining all of the parts for the upper hats, so far only the spacers are done. I'll start on the mounts after the holidays. No having a lathe made it a little more difficult to make these, but I managed to make it work with the mill.

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Glad you started a build thread after all these years. I was always curious what you were running and details on your car.
 
Even though a full standalone ECU can be a pain sometimes, it does have its benefits when it comes to new features and flexibility. I've never logged ECU data during my autox runs, I started doing that this year and have learned a ton of good information from them. I had this mount 3d printed that screws to the radio bezel and mounts a side holster for my phone. I can view and log any data from the ECU at any time, it allows me to keep an eye on coolant temps better, air temps, etc. It also logs GPS which I can plot in megalogviewer, it makes it easy to compare runs and see which sections I was quicker or slower in.

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I've also always hated the way the pedals are spaced out on this car. It's just about impossible for me to heel toe on downshifts. This is very easy on my BMW where the pedals are closer together. To fix this I pulled the gas pedal out and welded a 1in piece of flat bar to the side of it. I should have done that a long time ago.

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nice work on the pedal and machine parts. I assume your going to go the koni route since you got the far north spec sheets for building them parts
 
That's the plan, it seems to be the best option out there for what I am looking for. The wife is still in school so the money isint there for the full setup this year. But she graduates this spring so hoping I can complete the suspension next year sometime. But for next season I'll be using the spherical top hats on these tokicos. The car is just way to low the way it sits now so a better working suspension and a decent ride height should be an improvement over this past year.

I had to machine some new upper spring perches for these springs. I only need to machine the top hats and I should be able to put this together.
 
That's the plan, it seems to be the best option out there for what I am looking for. The wife is still in school so the money isint there for the full setup this year. But she graduates this spring so hoping I can complete the suspension next year sometime. But for next season I'll be using the spherical top hats on these tokicos. The car is just way to low the way it sits now so a better working suspension and a decent ride height should be an improvement over this past year.

I had to machine some new upper spring perches for these springs. I only need to machine the top hats and I should be able to put this together.
So your pic above with riding on the bumpstops, that dont seem normal so they blown out? Or am i right in assuming your lowering springs are causing you to ride the bump stop most of the time?

Have you looked into spring type bumpstops? You can use them instead of and also protects the shsft inside and can go against your spring rates if worked out correctly
 
The struts are not in new condition, they have around 60 or 70k but they don't seem to be shot yet. I can still adjust the shocks and they do change the ride quality. My guess is the springs have sagged over time. Or they were just to damn low to being with and I never noticed.

I feel like an idiot for racing this car all season and having no idea it was sitting on the bump stops. I would have thought it would have been very noticeable. Maybe it will be a night and day difference once I get this straightened out.
 
The spherical bearings for the top hats are in. I've been working on machining the top hats this week. I should finish up the machining on the top side Monday. Then just need to put in the bearing bores and snap ring grooves. It's been a fun project but ready to get this part finished up.

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I feel like I haven't been making a whole lot of progress this off-season. I finished up the front suspension today, everything came out pretty good. I will try to machine the last few parts for the rear this week.

I grabbed a 10hz gps over the holidays that I'll be running this season. Hoping to learn something useful from the data.

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Autox season is quickly approaching, first race is scheduled for the end of March and I still have a lot to do to get this car ready.

I have been looking for a set of Evo 8 wheels for a long time now, last week I finally found a set for a good price and only a few hours away. So I picked those up. I'll get a little bit more tire under the car this year.

The weather has been crazy this week, 2 days ago we had tons of rain and bad flooding. No issues for us, but some of the lower areas saw some damage. Today we got a few inches of snow. We only get snow once or twice a year here in SC.

Here is my to do list to get ready for the first event.

• finish removing some misc weight from the car.
• boost leak check
• put the front end back together, fenders, lights, bumper.
• adjust ride height to level the car out.
• order new tires and have them mounted.
• the alignment is really jacked up, so I need to realign the whole car. Rear camber, rear toe, front toe.
• there is some aspects of the tune that I wanted to touch up if I have time.

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Figured I would post some old pictures from the past. In case anyone is wondering what's up with the 2 tone paint. The car had a small accident that bent the core support. I repaired that damage with a core support I cut from a good car, painted everything to match, but never finished the exterior.

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Figured I would post some old pictures from the past. In case anyone is wondering what's up with the 2 tone paint. The car had a small accident that bent the core support. I repaired that damage with a core support I cut from a good car, painted everything to match, but never finished the exterior.

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Most others would have sent it to the junkyard from that. Both of the Eclipses I pulled from at the yard had very similar front end damage.

Mad props for reapairing it and still running it. Even though its not finished LOL
 
The damage wouldnt have even been that bad if the dude I rolled into didn't have a trailer hitch sticking out the back. It push the fmic back until the crash bumper stopped the car. It was less then 5mph. I didn't want to use an aftermarket core support so it took months to find a donor car that was in good shape and no rust to steal that from. I never found a good bumper so the one I have is a cheapo Amazon one, but it fits decent.
 
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It took me about a year and a half to fix it. At the time I just bought a house and was engaged so car work did not take priority. Either way, I had it back on the road spring of 2017, made it to one event that year before the trans took a dump. 4th gear bearing cage failed, when I took the trans apart I needed a new input shaft, 4th gear, 5th gear, and a new synchro hub. I pulled a neon trans from a junk yard close by and used the parts from that to rebuild mine.

You can also see the old holset turbo that was on the car before the Evo3. The rest of the photos are just a photo dump for you guys to enjoy.

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I’ll be following your progress, I’m acquiring an RS soon and I’m itching to get in some track days while my other projects get finished!
 
Most others would have sent it to the junkyard from that. Both of the Eclipses I pulled from at the yard had very similar front end damage.

Mad props for reapairing it and still running it. Even though its not finished LOL
Agreed on this. It could have easily been another crushed DSM. Nice job saving it.
 
The first event is exactly 3 weeks away. I have been slowly chipping away at my to do list. I had to pull all of the suspension back off and change some of the spacers under the new top hats to get the ride where I wanted it. Kind of a crude way to change the ride height without coilovers. But I got that all squared away.

New tires are on the way and will be here by the end of the week. I'll get those put on the new Evo wheels next week.

I've been working on setting up the alignment the last few days. I have been trying to come up with a way to set rear camber. My best thought was to use shims to make the floor level. I used a machinist level to get it as close as I could. Then hung a string from the fender and measured to the wheel. From there I can calculate camber. I tried to use a digital level at first, but I wasn't able to get repeatable results. So I thought this would be a little more accurate.
Does anyone else try to align their own car the diy way?

The alignment specs I plan on starting out with:
Front camber - Not adjustable
Front toe - 1/8" toe out
Rear camber - negative 1.25 deg
Rear toe - 1/8" toe out

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