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Brandonjffrs96

Proven Member
116
22
Nov 2, 2019
Bronson, Michigan
im looking for feedback and advice for a part list a buddy of mine made for my 98 eclipse gsx. i have faith in this build sheet but i still would like to know if i should add a thing or two, or if you feel something should be replaced for something else. if thats the case then please ltell me as to why you believe so and ill definitely consider it. thanks in advance.

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/cart.php

SEE POST #9 FOR PARTS LIST SCREENSHOTS
 
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This will get you 500+ ponies, depending on cams/turbo/injectors. Get it balanced at a engine shop and you're good!
 
Eagle crank
I beam rods
Manley HD pistons
22mm tool steel wrist pins
New oil pump
.002 clearance on the mains, .002-.003 clearance on the rods, .024 top ring, .028 2nd ring, .019 oil rings.
Machine block and head for true flatness.
MLS headgasket and L19 headstuds torqued to beyond factory spec (I have my own specs)
T3/T4 exhaust manifold
44mm WG or Dual WG's
35-45 lbs of boost on a 60mm turbo or bigger and I'd run a DBB turbo if I had the money.
Or a 6 bolt motor swap with the same.
Never have to worry about the bottom end then.
2g head with OS valves and Beehive springs.
Kelford 272 or GSC S2s. They'll take the rpms to 9k.
Marty
WTF? This is your exact build! You just want everything created in your image Marty ;)
 
I’ve said it... I’ll keep saying it. Watch out on them Kelford cams. Lol.
They are Kind of on the huge side when it comes to cams and a big difference between HKS / Comp 272’s (101200’s)

Comp Cams 101200’s (272’s) are 212IN/212EX duration @ 0.050”
Kelford 272’s are 226IN/226EX duration @ 0.0394” (1mm)

I would consider those for drag racing or if you want the powerband up pretty high like that (or if you’re after a hp number).
I prefer power under the curve and a cam more catered to the street and for 500whp would recommend Comp 101200’s or Kelford 264’s (Kelford 264’s are 216/216 @ 1mm, that would probably be a NOICE f****ng cam. Lol).

If you’re building the engine yourself —> Ditch the L19’s in favor of something else comparable. If having a shop do it, unless they’re reputable I’d ditch the L19’s there too. If they know what they’re doing and how to handle L19’s, I guess.
I personally wouldn’t like the fuss. Can’t touch a bolt, not my cup of tea. Lol.
 
I RUN the Kelford 264s. They ARE great cams. 4g63s like revs, if built correctly. If you want 500 horse then PUSH a small cam and try to get it. You'll see peak torque around 4500-6k and peak hp above that.
Have you personally ran a Kelford cam? Its in the tune man, I can make them idle like stock or sound off like a blubbering SBC. All in the tune and I daily that car anytime to work and back 60 miles.
My suggestions are reliable and repeatable and YES, what I BUILD and run, because I know my siht @Vegas smith. :p :cool:
 
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Not in DSM, no. 240sx w/ a KA24DE that DOESN’T rev though. Lol! Yes.
Which is when I found out about Kelford’s and MAN was I disappointed (didn’t know much about cams back then).

Never disputed Kelford’s and reliability, only pointing out the advertised duration vs standardized duration differences manufacturer vs manufacturer, that’s all. :thumb:

Only an opinion, but it stands. I think the Kelford 272 is a little tall for 500whp and a street driven car. I believe you can easily hit it and have more fun with the powerband provided by the cams you currently run (the Kelford 264’s) or the Comp 101200’s.
 
I run the 272s in a stick shift car, the 264s in an auto car. You just have to drive the car how the motor wants to be driven not how you want to drive it. That said, you would need to build around your driving style not the motors preference and can be limited if you do that. Hell I drive ALL of my DSM'S to work any given week, all week long. They DD just fine, you just have to drive them differently. I have HKS 264/272s in my stock GSX and no way I would think it would make 500hp, it just poops out too soon. Maybe a big ass huffer and E, I might feel like I could "tickle" 500. The red stick car has pushed 614. Auto car is high 400s on a crappy tune and 91 octane with the 264s.
Since the OP was asking for opinions, mine are exactly what I drive and love, each one of them are different tho.
 
Couldn’t agree more.
And just for the record AND my own car’s sake, you feel the Kelford 264’s could hit 500hp pretty easily with a better tune right?
And very easily on E?
 
Yes sir I do. On E and a 60mm turbo. If your build is the same that is on your profile, you would need a bigger turbo than the 16. You will run out of injector on E. Bigger pump too. :)
 
That turbo is smaller than I run for the said results. It is a good turbo. Flow rated at 51lbs/min. I flow over 55 on my Holset setup and should see 60 if I get the tune lined out by a pro. My auto HX40 Kelford 264 car has given me pretty consistent 450 hp on our crappy 91 gas. This is just Links report back to me with 20% reduction for drivetrain loss, but it's still just bench racing. On E they turn into absolute monsters. I wouldn't doubt an extra 100 to 150hp with a GOOD amount of timing being added.
 
This is on crappy gas and 5* max timing and still seeing a tad bit of knock, from last night.
 

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Sent ya a PM :)
 
Not in DSM, no. 240sx w/ a KA24DE that DOESN’T rev though. Lol! Yes.
Which is when I found out about Kelford’s and MAN was I disappointed (didn’t know much about cams back then).

Never disputed Kelford’s and reliability, only pointing out the advertised duration vs standardized duration differences manufacturer vs manufacturer, that’s all. :thumb:

Only an opinion, but it stands. I think the Kelford 272 is a little tall for 500whp and a street driven car. I believe you can easily hit it and have more fun with the powerband provided by the cams you currently run (the Kelford 264’s) or the Comp 101200’s.

The low end loss between 264 and 272 cams is laughable compared to the 30+whp you gain over most of the powerband. With a turbo that spools quickly (aka not a black haha) you won't be missing that bottom end at all! Also Kelford has a new profile which regains some of that bottom end and makes more top end. KA24DE revs to 8000rpm fine, sounds like you had a shit tune mate.
https://www.kelfordcams.com/global/camshafts/mitsubishi/evo-1-3-vr4-4g63/1-tx272r-camshaft-set.html
 
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The main point was to be aware difference between HKS 264 (Comp 101100’s) and Kelford 264.
(IE —> pay attention and read cam cards and look at standardized durations instead of the advertised duration)

There was nothing wrong with the engine or tune. As I said —> didn’t know what I was doing at the time.
Trying to help someone learn from my mistake.
 
Nobody I know uses the br8eix plugs as they don't appear to offer much of an advantage but cost a lot more.

I run BR8EIX in the Galant. I started using iridium plugs when I started running higher boost levels on E85 before I got a CDI ignition system. The copper cores just didn't cut it, even when gapped down really tight. The car would cut out as peak boost came on.

The iridium plugs also last a lot longer, so if you're building a street car that gets driven, the cost balances out because of their longevity. If you're running a setup where you need to pull the plugs to read them often, I'd just go with the cheaper copper cores so long as they are performing well. I swore by the copper cores until they didn't cut it. I've never had ignition issues with the iridiums, though, so that's been my go-to ever since.
 
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