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99 GSX Rebirth/Clean-Up/Build

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Yo!

I got my Racedeck tiles in, a bunch of black, the transition pieces and some spare grey pieces.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Also threw up christmas lights for the first time! LOL

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

My exhaust should be here tonight as well. Super stoked!

Peace!
 
Exhaust is in! HKS Carbon TI. Full stainless unlike the mild steel Apexi. Also one less resonator, seems to be a much better design also.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Didn't necessarily want the Carbon muffler, but oh well! Only $540 shipped cyber monday.


Peace!

-Brady
 
I wonder if they still use 409 stainless as they used to many years ago, its a nice system and sounds great as i seen them on a few other car chassis.
Hold a magnet to it and see if they do still use it as it will stick. Hopefully they went to 304
 
Yo,

I finally added another white cabinet, and painted the whole garage bright white. I'm thinking of doing an accent stripe at +60 or so. Maybe black/grey with small red stripe.
Going to add some posters and some upper cabinets, with shelving or peg board above my workbench.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Peace!

-Brady
 
Yo..

A couple things to update on. I took the new HKS Carbon exhaust to a local fab guy and had him remove the 2.5" section, add a v-band, and shorten the exhaust a bit to get it to fit in the original exhaust channel. It came out great. I'm super happy with it, all hangers connected, and doesn't rub my driveway anymore.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I've also got a lot of my winter refresh items in.

-OE Rear Hubs/Bearings
-1G t-stat housing
-1G Water pipe
-OEM 1G lower rad hose
-OEM 6 Bolt black timing cover
-OEM timing cover bolts
-OEM OFH
-ACL Oil pump
-OEM Stubby shaft for the ACL pump
-SPC front adjustable balljoints

49483411206_d7ac7c2cb7_o.jpg
Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Going to start tearing the car down and getting this stuff wrapped up. Want to pull the t-case and rear diff to refreshen those as well as check for metal shavings etc. Would also like to re-do bushings in the rear as they are OEM with 125k on them.

Peace!

-Brady
 
There's always that happy feeling buying brand new parts even though it's not cheap! I was always told to go OEM oil pump but hopefully you don't have issues with an aftermarket one!

Definitely! As for the oil pump, did a decent amount of research. Seems the stubby shaft is a huge problem with OE pumps. Will check the gears, de-burr everything, check flatness and should be good to go. $120 versus +$400 was worth me trying the ACL. A big reason for any of this is to fix a small oil leak I've had for 10 years, so may possible just re-use my OEM 6 bolt if it checks out!

I'd like to a get a sound clip of that exhaust. May put one on my 1g.
Will do! Won't be for a while though. There are a ton of clips on youtube though.
 
I dont remember if i asked or its been spoken about before but did you do a power steering delete or go with a hydro pump unit? I just noticed the PS pump gone
 
I dont remember if i asked or its been spoken about before but did you do a power steering delete or go with a hydro pump unit? I just noticed the PS pump gone

PS is gone and no pump. Would like a hydro unit but I would need a revamp of alternator/charging setup. Depowered the rack myself. I deal with it but I'm pretty used to it LOL
 
PS is gone and no pump. Would like a hydro unit but I would need a revamp of alternator/charging setup. Depowered the rack myself. I deal with it but I'm pretty used to it LOL
I dont know how i missed it before, maybe i did and forgot to mention it. How you like manual steering? Everyone has mixed reviews on it but at least you done the depower correctly.
 
I dont know how i missed it before, maybe i did and forgot to mention it. How you like manual steering? Everyone has mixed reviews on it but at least you done the depower correctly.

I like the way it cleans up the bay more than how much I dislike the lack of power steering, if that makes sense. I've had no PS for years so don't really have any complaints as I forgot what it is like without it LOL
 
Sup guys.

Finally tore into the pig to replace the oil pump.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Doing a little oil cleanup etc while i'm down here. May pull the Pan... Not sure yet though. Actually, I'm definitely going to LOL.

Switching to the 1g water pipe/t-stat housing set up FINALLY. Just need to send these to get powdercoated wrinkle black and have the holes welded up.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Also forgot about how ported my relief is on the old OFH. Need to buy a dremel to match the porting on the new OFH.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I ordered a couple new connectors from OHM. TPS and MDP/MAP. They were both brittle and would wriggle loose, rending the car dead in its tracks until I parked, opened the hood and pressed them in harder. So definitely happy I'm finally doing that.

Two things I would like to do while I'm down there are:

-Re-attach the ALT blue wire back to the battery light on the dash. This has been giving me problems with charging only once I rev the motor above 3k or so.
-Re-connect the side marker lights. I had unfortunately deleted one for some reason a few years ago, so they were both unplugged. I plan on just tying into the passenger light for ground/power instead of tearing the harness apart again... I believe this is fine unless someone says otherwise? LOL

Peace.

-Brady
 
Hey I'm not to sure on all your wiring but if you throw a relay in there for your side markers and pull power from the battery and use the passenger light as the trigger for the relay then you shouldn't have any problems or burn anything up. Just my thoughts thank you for your time, Jason Penny
 
Yo!

So with all this quarantine stuff I figured it was the BEST time to go nuts on the car.

-Removing everything, (sub frames, drive shaft, gas tank, exhaust diff t case etc etc)
-Wire wheeling everything, removing all the gunk and grime and as much as the old dried out undercoating
-Replacing or repairing the lower unibody rails
-Replacing or repairing (seems like I will be replacing LOL) the lower pinch weld portions of the car
-Fixing rear wheel well rust
-Fixing rocker rust
-Powdercoating/painting everything
-New 3M undercoating, or raptor liner. Haven't decided. The 3M stuff is really nice though, my front wheel wells are currently done in 3M.

Parts I have gotten:
-6AN feed kit, tank to rail
-Fuelab filter
-Mishimoto upper rad
-All axle seals, all t-case/rear diff/trans seals
-Full Energy suspension bushing kit
-New water pump
-New rear hubs/bearings (fronts were done 2k miles ago)
-All front suspension components are OE replacements, which I will replace all the bushings with Energy's kit.

All of this is because the car will be getting a full glass-out respray in Northstar White when the undercarriage/suspension bits are done.

There are tons of rust free shells here in Denver, so I will snag all the underbody parts from those. Why the hell is it that all the wrecked RS/GS cars around here have PERFECT rails/pinch weld seams/rockers?? Not fair at all.

On to the pics!

Ready for the tear down, excuse the IG filter LOL

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

First time the rockers have ever been removed. I was little nervous because I didn't know what would be hiding underneath.. But honestly not too bad!

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Previous owners absolutely destroyed the pinch seams and underbody rails... I wish I would have even looked when I was 16 but oh well. They are the worst I've ever seen I think..

The rear wells is where I noticed the thin metal. I poked a hole through one last summer and it has been in the back of my mind ever since. HORRIBLE design by Mitsu. This area is just a bowl for water/salt/grime. So dumb. But I knew I needed to remove all this rot and fix all the pinch seams.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

You can see in this pic the lower portion is where I noticed it was thin/rusted out a couple months ago. Hated washing my car because I knew it was just getting water in this big rust hole LOL. But anyway I knew this piece is easily accessible with exterior spot welds, so I removed this first to inspect a little bit more.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Had this out in 15 minutes. Mostly due to me not having my spot weld drill bit. Will have to snag a few of those asap.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

After removing the side skirts and inspecting, it was obvious that the damage was from moisture just sitting in these rocker panels, so I figured the most I would do is cut a line below the door frame and replace everything back to the pinch weld. I figured I would just cut this part out to see if the inner structure was severely damaged which it wasn't so that was cool. I will replace the lower portion of the inner structure.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

You can see that the trailing arm mount also has some rot, I'll remove that. It is just the side cover, not the super thick piece so I may just fab a part to patch that who knows.

The drivers side isn't nearly as bad.. I don't even know how much I'm going to replace. Minimum the easily removable piece as I did on the other side. We will see.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr


So yeah, there she is! The body shop I took it into cut me a deal if I bring them the car fully disassembled and hand deliver all the pieces separately so figured why not just start now.

Peace!

-Brady
 
Man this is exactly how my rebuild started.. heard a slight squeak in one rear shock and stuck a pick through my drivers side rear rocker and bam.. car has been on jackstands for 4 months with the entire bottom dropped to the frame! Haha figured since I have the time and want it 100% might as well!
 
Man this is exactly how my rebuild started.. heard a slight squeak in one rear shock and stuck a pick through my drivers side rear rocker and bam.. car has been on jackstands for 4 months with the entire bottom dropped to the frame! Haha figured since I have the time and want it 100% might as well!

Haha love it. I've neglected the underneath/suspension since I've had this car. Time to make it right!

In regards to the rocker, I cut out another section. I think this is as far as I'm going to go with the rocker. Inspecting the inside, it would take 30 years for rust to get any worse or rot through.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

The plan is to use Eastwood rust encapsulator platinum everywhere, I will brush this on. On the inside of areas I will use Eastwood interior frame coating, the green stuff with a hose and 360° spray. I've seen reviews of rusty parts coated with both products in 1000's of hours of salt spray testing and zero rust shows up. Being in Denver where it is extremely dry, this will last me probably as long as I have the car haha. I've had bare metal on the car where a huge paint chip pulled off the front rad support for 2 years, hasn't even a spec of surface rust on it. Stop the rust in its tracks with encapsulator and remove rotted panels will be 1000% upgrade from what it is now.

After the eastwood encapsulator platinum is brushed on and allowed to cure for a couple days, I will use 3M undercoating in a can. I thought about raptor liner but I coated my wheel wells with the 3M and was very impressed. Also plenty of reviews/testing has been done on that stuff as well.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Now since I'm removing everything I figured I would start with the rear subframe. It has never been removed on this car. I had it out in around 30 minutes thanks to me just cutting the trailing arms as I will be replacing those anyway LOL. The e-brake cable brackets all came off as well, just need to hop inside and disconect them so they can pull out.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Next up is gas tank and drive shaft.

Peace!

-Brady
 
I think your rust is about as bad as mine. Hows yours upper cross over piece above the fuel tank? Mine rotted away so didnt know if yours did the same
 
I think your rust is about as bad as mine. Hows yours upper cross over piece above the fuel tank? Mine rotted away so didnt know if yours did the same

You'll see below, but Honestly I didn't think it was bad at all underneath. Wire wheeling everything and brush on rust encapsulator will hold the corrosion for many years to come.




So I got the subframe pulled out, just had to take the center console apart to remove the e-brake cables and slid it out.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Then the next thing was driveshaft, exhaust shields, and gas tank/shield.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Pretty much any 10mm bolt snapped unerneath... Go figure. Other than the 10mm's holding the exhaust shield and gas tank shield on, the only other bolts that broke were two 14mm holding the exhaust fuel neck bracket on, which was very surprising...

These right here:

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

I went ahead and just cut the fuel lines, will be replacing them.

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

The only other problem I encountered were the two studs for the gas tank straps on the rear. The bracket seemed fine, surface rust easily fixable, but the nuts holding the straps on were sooooooo rusted. The studs got so warm they are curved and not straight...

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Untitled by Brady Dingeldein, on Flickr

Another thing I ran into were the brake lines. They are gross and seem to be pretty rusty.. Not sure what to do about that. Re-make them? Run flex brake lines? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

Peace,

-Brady
 
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