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2G Clutch to floor & not starting

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2gturbo7-AZ

Probationary Member
2
0
Feb 10, 2020
Mesa, Arizona
Hey guys,

I’ve owned a few 2G GST’s and one GSX but never a Spyder. None-the-less, I’ve never came across this issue with the clutch having to be 110% pushed down to start the vehicle. Yes, I know the clutch must be pushed in for it to start, but mine is super finicky and after sitting for the last few days, it’s not wanting to start.

I’ve done some research, and everywhere says it’s the battery – but, the battery is basically brand new, all the lights turn on, radio, headlights and everything else seems to be powered just fine. This makes me think it’s the starter solenoid that is not allowing the vehicle to start or that the clutch may need to be replaced as the vehicle is not registering that the clutch is all the way down to start the vehicle.

I bought the car a couple of weeks ago knowing the clutch had to be pushed 110% in for it to start, but over the last few weeks its been seeming to get worse and today the car wouldn’t turn over and start.

Any thoughts?
 
It wont hurt to measure the voltage on your new battery just in case. Also, try unplugging the white clutch switch connector and see if it would start that way.
 
If you trust yourself and everyone else that would be driving the car, bypass the clutch safety switch. You can buy a plug that shorts the two contacts in the connector or you can go to town with a soldering iron for free. If you were already having issues, this is the best way to absolutely guarantee that your starting problem is not with the switch. Some even recommend it for a reduction in thrust bearing wear (READ:crankwalk) but I think that might be a little overblown.
 
If you trust yourself and everyone else that would be driving the car, bypass the clutch safety switch. You can buy a plug that shorts the two contacts in the connector or you can go to town with a soldering iron for free. If you were already having issues, this is the best way to absolutely guarantee that your starting problem is not with the switch. Some even recommend it for a reduction in thrust bearing wear (READ:crankwalk) but I think that might be a little overblown.
It's a normally closed switch. You just unplug it. Why the solder or additional part? I've done this to all my dsms both 1g and 2g.
 
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