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1G Transmission rebuild time???

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I havent replaced any needle bearings ever. I dont know how to determinate if they are bad if shaft looks shiny after cleaning and bearing turns freely. That bearing is hard to remove as it does not fit to common hydraulic press and pulley is smaller than the gear. If you can use those long bolts to hang it in to press and use some wrench extension to press from axle it could work. Its pretty loose once it gets going.

Im replacing the needle bearings since I’m 90% there. The needle bearing for the output shaft is no longer available, that’s why I’m asking. This puller is too small for this job since I can’t even bolt them together. There’s no way to use this puller on the press. My buddy has a larger set so I’m borrowing it tomorrow.
 
I have pretty much any shim available in stock.

As for the output shaft needle bearing it typically is not a failure point, but press gently in and out on the rollers. If they separate from the cage it is junk. As a side note, that needle bearing is discontinued.

As for the other needle bearings, I always replace 1/2/3/4/5 needle bearings.

Regarding the front diff, simply use a 1/2" impact and 6 point 19mm socket and remove the ring gear bolts by hitting all of them like a 1/2-1 turn first, then working your way around to remove all of them. Then the ring gear comes right off. Clean the threads on the bolts and the diff and clean out the ring gear holes with a round file and remove all loctite from the components, brake clean and blow clean. It is very straight forward.
 
An OTC 1123 or the next size up removes the bearings without issues.
 
Regarding the front diff, simply use a 1/2" impact and 6 point 19mm socket and remove the ring gear bolts by hitting all of them like a 1/2-1 turn first, then working your way around to remove all of them. Then the ring gear comes right off. Clean the threads on the bolts and the diff and clean out the ring gear holes with a round file and remove all loctite from the components, brake clean and blow clean. It is very straight forward.

Is that the only way to remove the bearing on that side? I’d rather not remove the ring gear if I don’t have to? Was thinking about borrowing a larger splitter.

Edit. Just saw your last post. Thanks Tim!!
 
I made my own press stands
 

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If you dont want to remove the ring gear then use two pry bars and pry it up. It is really not hard whatsoever.
 
I made my own press stands

That’s what I needed but the jack stands came in handy. It was right in front of my face when I was thinking about it. Lol

but that’s much nicer
 
I took it off with gear in place but did not even think that you could pull that gear over bearing while i was doing it.

This is definitely a brain exercise for me. The race closest to the input shaft broke and tight af so I had to improvise.

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That is common. I deal with this regularly and have to grind a slot on the bearing sleeve, or else I use an air hammer with a modified narrow fork tool to move the bearing sleeve down enough to get my 1123 splitter on.
 
I got super nervous when it broke off. My brain thought “could this be part of the shaft”? Then my senses kicked back in and said it was definitely the race.

I wore safety glasses after that. You can seriously damage an eye
 
Lock plier ftw Pauley! Glad I got a pair.

Tim

I think the outshaft needle bearings look reusable. What do you think?

I’m stumped on the front diff bearing, gear side. Think I need the bigger separator since I can’t bolt this one down.
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Take off the ring gear
 
Take off the ring gear

Was trying to be funny but that might have come off wrong. Tim said they’re not on there tight. What’s under those bolts? And what’s the Torue spec?
 
I do about 75 ft/lbs with loctite 242 or 243 blue in star pattern once all are installed fully by hand and the ring gear is seated flush and centered with no resistance on the bolts during assembly.

I always disassemble the front diff because I replace the pinion oiling washers and lock pin on rebuilds. Just pry off the top bearing with two prybars. The bottom bearing you can do the same or install the 1123 bearing splitter and use that for leverage to pry off the 6207 roller bearing.
 
I do about 75 ft/lbs with loctite 242 or 243 blue in star pattern once all are installed fully by hand and the ring gear is seated flush and centered with no resistance on the bolts during assembly.

I always disassemble the front diff because I replace the pinion oiling washers and lock pin on rebuilds. Just pry off the top bearing with two prybars. The bottom bearing you can do the same or install the 1123 bearing splitter and use that for leverage to pry off the 6207 roller bearing.

I didn’t know about the front diff washer and pin. I’ll get at it again tomorrow after work.
Thanks gents!!
 
Don't you have access to the factory service manuals I have uploaded onto this website?? It clearly details this stuff. I put these resources here for a reason.
 
Don't you have access to the factory service manuals I have uploaded onto this website?? It clearly details this stuff. I put these resources here for a reason.

I do not. I have a couple of threads book marked but don’t recall the oiling washer being mentioned in those. If they were, I completely missed it.
 
I got super nervous when it broke off. My brain thought “could this be part of the shaft”? Then my senses kicked back in and said it was definitely the race.

I wore safety glasses after that. You can seriously damage an eye
Absolutely. I know few ppl who had bearing or hammer material shoot deep in their flesh when chip came off while hammering.
 
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