The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Kiggly Racing
Please Support STM Tuned

1G Transmission rebuild time???

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

You still should use the better looking one.

LOL. I will since it’s a built trans. I’m cleaning the spare and trying to source a reverse idler that I stole out of it. Just finished cleaning it and it’s still looks like shit but it’s not painted. So I’ll probably end up sanding it or getting it sand blasted.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
LOL. I will since it’s a built trans. I’m cleaning the spare and trying to source a reverse idler that I stole out of it. Just finished cleaning it and it’s still looks like sh** but it’s not painted. So I’ll probably end up sanding it or getting it sand blasted.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
If you have the patience, a wire wheel and some degreaser is cheaper than sandblasting.
 
If you have the patience, a wire wheel and some degreaser is cheaper than sandblasting.

That is degreased haha. Think it has dried coolant on it. My garage is a mess now so I’m putting the trans back in first. Then tackle the case while I’m waiting for the idler.
 
After inspecting what I can without taking apart gear stacks, I put it back together and didn’t see anything abnormal to my untrained eyes. Put fresh fluid in and drive it 5 miles. There’s something definitely wrong with it. It doesn’t sound good at highway speeds so I drained the fluid.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


More glitter. I’m putting in the other transmission for now and rebuilding this one in the distant future. I’m pretty sure this was a result of my disc coming apart. When that happened, the noise was horrific (@30-40 mph cruising). Really thought I broke the rear diff or tranny.
 
Did you check the shaft play? You should've found the cause I would think

The input shaft has zero play. My thought is that glitter is from the case since it’s not sticking to the magnet. All the gears, visible bearings, races, and synchro looked fine. The reverse idler looked rough but I know that’s not the issue. Only thing that stuck out was that cover where the races go. The shake was pretty violent so I’m guessing the case took the brunt of the damage. I would like to rebuild it one day.
 
If those races fit snug I would disagree. Did you take apart center diff? All bearing look ok everywhere? That much aluminum I usually see a bearing destroyed and gears are eating at the case. I see this at the intermediate shaft more often.
 
If those races fit snug I would disagree. Did you take apart center diff? All bearing look ok everywhere? That much aluminum I usually see a bearing destroyed and gears are eating at the case. I see this at the intermediate shaft more often.

i did not take apart the center diff. Do you know roughly the cost for all new bearings?
 
My bearings from TMZ should be here tomorrow. I’m working on the intermediate shaft but my 12ton press opening and a 108mm bearing separator are too small to press out first gear. Tapered roller bearings are off. Any recommendations on how to remove 1st gear without larger press and separator? Also, if I can find a larger separator, does it go behind first gear or the slider?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Think I figured out where the glitter and noise is coming from. First gear is a bit loose as you can see from the video and I think I see the evidence.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
The intermediate shaft bearings are wiped out hence why 5th intermediate was contacting the bearing plate.

As for the intermediate shaft disassembly, just remove the snapring and press off the entire 1/2 cluster in one push from 2nd gear.

For the input shaft assembly, remove the 5th gear needle bearing sleeve, then remove snapring and then press off the entire 3rd/4th assembly in one push from bottom of 3rd gear.
 
Also, for fast removal of the 5th intermediate gear, use OTC 1122 with OTC 7393 push puller.
 
The intermediate shaft bearings are wiped out hence why 5th intermediate was contacting the bearing plate.

As for the intermediate shaft disassembly, just remove the snapring and press off the entire 1/2 cluster in one push from 2nd gear.

For the input shaft assembly, remove the 5th gear needle bearing sleeve, then remove snapring and then press off the entire 3rd/4th assembly in one push from bottom of 3rd gear.

Much appreciated Tim! I got the intermediate & Input shafts and center diff disassembled. Only have front diff and output shaft left now. Little stumped on the front diff but I just thought of an idea.

Thanks for all your help sir!!
 
I had shaft play due worn out bearings and it made funny sound like driving some straight cut rallycar gearbox. The bearings itself looked good but races had really missing material when taking closer look. Im pretty sure too loose/tight shims will cause premature failure. Its pita to find correct shim plates as most of them are discontinued i have mitsubishi gearbox factory manual if you need any shimplate numbers or tolerance.
 
You don't want snap ring pliers. These rings have no holes. You want lock ring pliers. Coincidently I took my trans apart yesterday

Lock plier ftw Pauley! Glad I got a pair.

Tim

I think the outshaft needle bearings look reusable. What do you think?

I’m stumped on the front diff bearing, gear side. Think I need the bigger separator since I can’t bolt this one down.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
I had shaft play due worn out bearings and it made funny sound like driving some straight cut rallycar gearbox. The bearings itself looked good but races had really missing material when taking closer look. Im pretty sure too loose/tight shims will cause premature failure. Its pita to find correct shim plates as most of them are discontinued i have mitsubishi gearbox factory manual if you need any shimplate numbers or tolerance.

That’s exactly what mine is doing. The funny thing is I bought a spare tranny and that’s also making a similar noise. I’ll rebuild that one later. Thanks for the shimplate but I bookmarked that page. Is shimplate an actual word? Lol
 
I havent replaced any needle bearings ever. I dont know how to determinate if they are bad if shaft looks shiny after cleaning and bearing turns freely. That bearing is hard to remove as it does not fit to common hydraulic press and pulley is smaller than the gear. If you can use those long bolts to hang it in to press and use some wrench extension to press from axle it could work. Its pretty loose once it gets going.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top