I know you said money isn’t a factor, but at those power levels, you’ll start breaking drivetrain components especially if you’re not familiar with launching these cars. Just something to keep in mind.

Also upgraded brakes and suspension too. Safety first!!

I have been running the Iridium's, after John Shepard recommended them to me, he said they were the only ones that he didn't have problems with spark blowout (spark not starting technically) under high boost levels, they have been good to me even though they are more money.

tk106 said:

I know you said money isn’t a factor, but at those power levels, you’ll start breaking drivetrain components especially if you’re not familiar with launching these cars. Just something to keep in mind.

Also upgraded brakes and suspension too. Safety first!!

Click to expand...

i plan on doing everything thats necessary. im willing to drop 20k into this car if thats what it takes. this is truly a dream car of mine. i just need to know everything thats needed to hold the power reliably. 500 isnt anything crazy. doing it for paul!

delta448 said:

This.

What fuel will you be using to get to your power goal?

Just saying, there's a pretty big difference in what's required between 600awhp on 91 octane and 500 bhp on 118+ race gas.

Click to expand...

forgot to mention that but e85 of course. thats why i have those big ole injectors lul

BLACK'98DSM said:

Why the HKS timing belt? You could go with a Gates T167R and save some money.

Click to expand...

hks is legit and money isnt an issue to be honest

If money isn't an issue and this is a long-term, dream-car project then maybe you want something flashier like a tubular manifold with a xona rotor or precision turbo. There's a lot of different ways you can go about it.

Brandonjffrs96 said:

i am actually really interested in a tubular manifold so if you know of any please link it for me. im not really into the ball bearing turbos cuz ive always been a na v8 kinda guy so the fp black is perfect for me. plus i think its an easy fit where i might have to do some modding for a garret or a precision. correct me if im wrong.

Click to expand...

Why are you not into bb turbos and how does that relate to v8s? A ball-bearing turbo is generally considered better-performing, longer-lasting than it's journal bearing counterpart. I'm also not sure why the fp black is the correct choice because of that. Your car will feel nothing like a v8 if you're running an fp black.

Ok, I thought money wasn't an issue. An fp black won't make "full-boost" until after 5k rpm

Vegas smith said:

Ok, I thought money wasn't an issue. An fp black won't make "full-boost" until after 5k rpm

Click to expand...

money isnt an issue bud i make 60k a year at 23 if ya must know. i own a 68 camaro with a built 388 stroker. give me 5 good reasons why i should go bb? and im getting high rev cams so yeah. and i say it again IVE ALWAYS BEEN INTO NA V8's SO I DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT TURBOS THEREFORE I WANT ONE THAT BOLTS ON AND IS TRUSTED! get the point now bub? if you wanna criticize you can leave the forum pal

For the bottom end, you'll want a set of pistons, rods, eliminate balance shafts and arp hardware.

I know this is no where near typical, and Curt and Nate are on another level, but if you haven't checked this out, it's worth a read:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/499awhp-on-a-16g.292196/

Brandonjffrs96 said:

money isnt an issue bud i make 60k a year at 23 if ya must know. i own a 68 camaro with a built 388 stroker. give me 5 good reasons why i should go bb? and im getting high rev cams so yeah. and i say it again IVE ALWAYS BEEN INTO NA V8's SO I DONT KNOW MUCH ABOUT TURBOS THEREFORE I WANT ONE THAT BOLTS ON AND IS TRUSTED! get the point now bub? if you wanna criticize you can leave the forum pal

Click to expand...

Haha, I guess my PM response to you giving an entire build list wasn't enough to ingratiate myself with 23yo baller Brandon.

Yes, I back up Vegas. The MAIN reason you typically go to BB over journal is spool characteristics. Transient (on/off/back on again/varying throttle) response specifically. The Ball bearing turbos are different machines entirely man, VERY responsive.

Nahh man. Vegas is a good dude. Personalities might clash, but Vegas is a good member here, and it seems he’s offered to help. Relax guys.

Shrug it off. . Look past the bullsh*t.

Easily bolts up... . Ahh boy.. haha. DSM aftermarket has supplied MANY routes to go with upgrading turbos on the platform. Lots of people going to recommend a lot of different tastes for that one.
If you can spend some money. The right tubular manifold and/or a twinscroll unit might be the way to go.

but in my opinion nothing competes with the modular fit / design and price tag of staying MHI / FP. The value / $ per hp is almost unbeatable. If it’s worth it to you to spend quite a bit extra money for the extra (sometimes only slight) gain in performance—> than that’s def up to you.

Damn, this kid is having a temper-tantrum because I questioned his choice of turbo....after he asked.... which turbo to buy.

This thread cracks me up

Vegas shares the same dark sense of humor as me and means nothing by it Brandon, lighten up. I always find myself liking this guy's comments .

Only reason Vegas said to get BB turbos are because they ARE better performing and you said money is no issue, point blank. Are they WORTH that extra performance given the huge price jump? That's up to you to decide and can only be determined by how much money you have and are willing to throw. Me, personally, right now as a college student, will find myself sticking to journal bearing stock framed turbos that bolt up easily and give great performance. However, when I become a baller like yourself, I just may throw down the dough and go ball bearing, who knows..

Anyways, because money is no issue, go ball bearing. But if money is no issue, yet you're still trying to get most bang for your buck, get a journal bearing that requires little modification to make fit. Pretty simple I'd say.

Brandonjffrs96 said:

i get that but what brands?

Click to expand...

Your list is fine. Truth be told the 7 bolt block can hold a lot more power than 450whp. Torque is the enemy especially when you have a turbo that spools early and moves a lot of air. Im one of those 7>6 bolt guys and pushed the limits of both. Besides all that if you want 500whp reliable you'll need to do the minimum to the block with eagle rods and which ever brand piston you want to run thats forged.

Also the FP black is a pretty decent turbo. Its somewhat laggy depending on who you are and your setup. The biggest difference between ball bearing and journal bearing will be the reponsiveness between shifts and on and off throttle. But its definitely not that much of a factor for the size of the turbos we are throwing around in this thread. If anything go twin scroll with the manifold and it wont matter much then about journal or ball bearing when picking your turbo as long as your hotside is twinscroll.

The garrett gtx, gtw, gt 3076 or 3582 will meet your goals and give you room uptop.

The most important part is the build qaulity(machine work) and who tunes the car. You can build it shitty with a great tuner and lose out on more than 100whp easily.

kenuwine4g63 said:

Your list is fine. Truth be told the 7 bolt block can hold a lot more power than 450whp. Torque is the enemy especially when you have a turbo that spools early and moves a lot of air. Im one of those 7>6 bolt guys and pushed the limits of both. Besides all that if you want 500whp reliable you'll need to do the minimum to the block with eagle rods and which ever brand piston you want to run thats forged.

Also the FP black is a pretty decent turbo. Its somewhat laggy depending on who you are and your setup. The biggest difference between ball bearing and journal bearing will be the reponsiveness between shifts and on and off throttle. But its definitely not that much of a factor for the size of the turbos we are throwing around in this thread. If anything go twin scroll with the manifold and it wont matter much then about journal or ball bearing when picking your turbo as long as your hotside is twinscroll.

The garrett gtx, gtw, gt 3076 or 3582 will meet your goals and give you room uptop.

The most important part is the build qaulity(machine work) and who tunes the car. You can build it sh**ty with a great tuner and lose out on more than 100whp easily.

Click to expand...

thanks you my guy i needed to hear that also is there anything that you would add to the build??

ishnish said:

This thread cracks me up

Vegas shares the same dark sense of humor as me and means nothing by it Brandon, lighten up. I always find myself liking this guy's comments .

Only reason Vegas said to get BB turbos are because they ARE better performing and you said money is no issue, point blank. Are they WORTH that extra performance given the huge price jump? That's up to you to decide and can only be determined by how much money you have and are willing to throw. Me, personally, right now as a college student, will find myself sticking to journal bearing stock framed turbos that bolt up easily and give great performance. However, when I become a baller like yourself, I just may throw down the dough and go ball bearing, who knows..

Anyways, because money is no issue, go ball bearing. But if money is no issue, yet you're still trying to get most bang for your buck, get a journal bearing that requires little modification to make fit. Pretty simple I'd say.

Click to expand...

this "baller" works 60-65 hours a week. i work my ass off for my money so you said it well, im more of a bang for my buck kinda guy rather than a spend it all and hope is works kinda guy.

Brandonjffrs96 said:

i actually asked if anything you feel should be swapped please tell me as to why and id consider it. im more of a happy go lucky guy where youre more of a downer tom. let bygones be bygones though. thanks for the advice

Click to expand...

Mmm, you don't appear to be "happy go lucky"; more like extremely arrogant and immature. You're welcome for the advice.

Brandonjffrs96 said:

thanks you my guy i needed to hear that also is there anything that you would add to the build??

Click to expand...

Keep the iridium plugs even though coppers will work fine. The way they fire is different and im anal when it comes to some of the facts about plugs. A set of BPR7es plugs will do you good. Or Br7es and even br7ces will do you good. IMO iridium will be fine. You WILL need a spark plug gap tool unlike the normal ones to gap them without damaging them though.

Also i would scrap the NGK wires and run the ACCEL 8mm thundersport wires instead. The NGK will work but i prefer the accel over them.

Dont run the cometic Head gasket unless you have both the head and block surfaced. as little as .006 of warpage will cause that headgasket to leak. Run your basic Felpro gasket from an autoparts store.

I didnt see which arp headstuds where in there but i would upgrade to the L19 or 625s and torque them to at LEAST 110ft/lbs. (Even though i torque my standard ARPs that high i dont recommend it for others unless they can trust their own process).

You dont really need the GSC s3 cams, the s2 cams will take you a very long way. VERY.

Look into a intake manifold as well.

That's cool man. I'm in the med field and work 24 hour shifts every now and then since my semester ended not too long ago so I know all about long crazy work weeks or working your a$$ off for your money

Anyway, you're only a "spend it all and hope it works" kinda' guy if you don't do your research prior to making purchases or installing parts. You can also be a "bang for your buck and hope it works" kinda' guy too because you will find out quite soon that just buying quality or "bang for your buck" parts doesn't mean you just install and go.

I'll give you an example, I bought an afpr fuel lab kit for a DSM from extremepsi yet had to hammer the damn hell out of the bracket and drill out the hole used to bolt the afpr to the firewall just because the adjustment screw was contacting the hood and so the hood couldn't close. My afpr sits sideways as a result.

Anyway, just a piece of advice, be prepared to learn that you'll almost always end up with a "hope it works" kinda' attitude regardless of how much of that hard earned money you throw at it.

Brandonjffrs96 said:

and you seem to be a smart ass who cant keep his mouth shut. yet im the immature one? doesnt work like that pal

Click to expand...

OK bub...

Eagle crank
I beam rods
Manley HD pistons
22mm tool steel wrist pins
New oil pump
.002 clearance on the mains, .002-.003 clearance on the rods, .024 top ring, .028 2nd ring, .019 oil rings.
Machine block and head for true flatness.
MLS headgasket and L19 headstuds torqued to beyond factory spec (I have my own specs)
T3/T4 exhaust manifold
44mm WG or Dual WG's
35-45 lbs of boost on a 60mm turbo or bigger and I'd run a DBB turbo if I had the money.
Or a 6 bolt motor swap with the same.
Never have to worry about the bottom end then.
2g head with OS valves and Beehive springs.
Kelford 272 or GSC S2s. They'll take the rpms to 9k.
Marty