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1G Broken fuel pump electrical thru bolt stud

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1990TSIAWDTALON

Moderator
11,443
8,075
Nov 14, 2013
Independence, Kansas
Alright all of you know it alls, what now? After changing fuel pumps out to a Aeromotive 340 that makes noise but no pressure 4 dam times, I reinstslled the original pump in my 90 GSX (the white car) and in the process, broke the electrical connection thru bolt stud. Tell me how you guys and gals would go about repairing this. I am SURE that I am not the only one that has had this happen and I have a spare unit, but lets talk about how to repair this one for future reference. For now I have a wire soldered to the thru bolt block but don't trust it on a hour long drive away from the shop. Let me know what YOU ALL think.
Thanks!
Marty

Ps...this was a brand new pump from Amazon. I am getting a replacement pump but how do we fix this problem now?
 
I ended up drilling it out, and using a stainless steel cable glad, and ran the wire through direct to the pump. Seems to have worked so far, but in the future I wouldn't mind looking at replacing it with another bulkhead.
 
I was considering the same. Open to any and all suggestions so those that have this trouble in the future, can see what all of us did to make it work and not have to trash a good unit. :thumb:
How did you seal the wire up?
 
There are specific bulkhead studs for this purpose, and not too spendy. I bought an aftermarket sender kit, and it came with one in the hangar cover plate (though I didn't use it; I would sell you mine if I can find it). Make sure it's rated for submersion in gas, but you should have no trouble with a simple interweb search. Otherwise, how do you disconnect the pump (not that it's a frequent maintenance item...)?
 
I am going to either replace the thru bolt or add a quick connection inside for any future pump changes (which will only be for the replacement 340). I am leery of the solder getting warm/hot and then coming apart during any given excursion. The 340 didn't come as a PnP item for the wiring so you either take apart the original, which I did WAY TOO MANY TMES, or splice into the exsisting wiring anyway. I won't be taking it apart again until the new NEW pump comes in and would like to take care of it permanently then. I will go rob my parts car if I have to but I might as well try to fix this since I am sure it has happened before. Do you think a parts store would carry a bulkhead fitting like what I need? I bet they don't even know what it is now that I am saying this.
Thanks @Mech Addict !
 
I am going to either replace the thru bolt or add a quick connection inside for any future pump changes (which will only be for the replacement 340). I am leery of the solder getting warm/hot and then coming apart during any given excursion. The 340 didn't come as a PnP item for the wiring so you either take apart the original, which I did WAY TOO MANY TMES, or splice into the exsisting wiring anyway. I won't be taking it apart again until the new NEW pump comes in and would like to take care of it permanently then. I will go rob my parts car if I have to but I might as well try to fix this since I am sure it has happened before. Do you think a parts store would carry a bulkhead fitting like what I need? I bet they don't even know what it is now that I am saying this.
Thanks @Mech Addict !

Here's what you're looking for mates: http://www.radiumauto.com/Electrical-Bulkhead-Stud-Kit-6-Pack-P1049.aspx
These have a minimum thickness, so you'll have to buy some extra nylon washers or trim the plastic sleeve back, but they'll work.

There's also these:
http://www.radiumauto.com/Bulkhead-Fuel-Pump-Harness-Assemblies-P682.aspx


On a side note, don't use solder. Use butt connectors on fuel pump wires.
 
Thanks @RWD4G63
Believe me, I didn't WANT to have to try to solder a wire to a bulkhead fitting, I was kinda in a pinch. It is working but those parts you referenced are good items....they are a little proud of them, huh? I can't imagine me needing 6, ever, I hope. I need the car for tomorrows 30 mile drive to work in the snow....solder was solid and is working but I WILL be changing that. It sucked that all I was trying to do was install a bigger LPH pump and ended up with a dead pump and a broken electrical stud....boy what a pisser!!!!
 
I also found those radium parts with a quick search. They look high quality, but spendy. RWD4G63 seems to have found the price point I was imagining, especially since can you can buy just the one fitting, instead of a pack of many. Fuel system seems like a thing you don't want to take too many chances with, what with explosions and all. I thing you likely can't do is buy a new OEM-style hanger unless you try to get it from Japan and pay hundreds for it. I had a rough time trying to correct a bunch of fuel tank/pump/pickup/sending unit/etc. gremlins that my car was conveyed with, and mostly because the parts are N/A. Funny that there are so many aftermarket pumps for DSM, but not much to painlessly refresh the rest of it for AWD cars.
 
The 1G hanger is big / long right?
The best solution, by FAR is PTFE cap screws machined out for material of your choice. I have pictures of a 240sx one I did YEARS ago I’ll post up. I chose brass/bronze as I was not running E85 and couldn’t find threaded copper and wasn’t about to pay for a rod and then have it machined.

I back up RWD4G63’s post for radium and no solder.
 
I was considering the same. Open to any and all suggestions so those that have this trouble in the future, can see what all of us did to make it work and not have to trash a good unit. :thumb:
How did you seal the wire up?

I went with a standard cable glad with a rubber (not sure the exact material) liner. Pass the wire through then tighten to seal. I did inspect the pump after a year and there were no signs of leaking, so I left it.

I honestly used something like this, but made of stainless not plastic. Definitely not the best option, but will work for a normal street car.
https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-Cable-Gland-46J404
 
Will be revisiting this operation again late 2020 on the new 240. Will be better / cleaner. :)
 

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Interesting. Thank you to all.
Keep it coming!
 
Well guys and gals, good bad or ugly, this is what I did and it is working fine. Sealed the center and top with grey silicone but not much to seal. I put a bullet connector on the red positive wire so any future issues are an easy fix. I double zip tied the wire on both sides to keep it from moving then applied the silicone on top, I put it in the wire also as I slid it thru and added a bit inside. Most is external tho. I used a 1/8 drill to start out and gradually moved up from there for the closest to exact size of feed wire. I soldered the wires externally for a good connection and surrounded it with heat shrink. I added a small amount of silicone to the bulkhead connector, which is hexagonal, to keep it in place.
Thank you everyone! I hope this thread helps anyone else. :thumb:
Marty
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Well thats why I created this thread so we all have the different ideas out there and how to deal with a issue that I feel is common.
If there are more then please go ahead and give advice. Mine isn't perfect it is just how I got around it. It doesn't leak though!!! The fit of the wire and the hole size are the key plus some sealant of choice. I have fuel resistant sealant also but didn't think it would see "fuel", but fumes so I sealed up the outside also with grey rtv.
Thank you EVERYONE!
 
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