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Crank no start. Newb move.. Help

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TSI_too_slow

TSI_too_slow

Proven Member
60
11
Mar 1, 2019
Camden, Indiana
Good morning yall. 2g Talon tsi, 7bolt. As my header says... I think I screwed up. just rebuilt the engine. all went well except the Vehicle Cranks and wont start. It has Fuel, Spark and Air. I found the crank sensor pigtail was missing, spliced on a new one. It cranks better now, much more consistent. Still wont start. CAR HAS ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS, first time working with adjustable gears. Exhaust is coming out the air inlet side of the turbo. This leads me to believe my timing is off on the cams, am I right? I want to make sure im thinking correctly before removing all my pullies and the timing cover again to reset timing again, in car this time.

Thanks guys. Jake.
 
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Leave the gears alone at dead up zero. Not quite sure what to tell you on air coming out of the turbo inlet, but I've never had my hand anywhere close to my turbo inlet, I like my fingers!
If all of your timing marks were spot on during assembly, you have it timed right. Did you take any pictures of that when you did it, it is always a good thing so you can reflect back and not have take stuff apart to re-verify it.
 
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@1990TSIAWDTALON pictures of the timing after it was set? I might have some general pictures but nothing close enough to see specific markings aside from what I DM'd you when setting the time.
 
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I'm not entirely familiar with the 4g63t cars. But I know of my 420a there are a couple sensors that if not installed right or not working properly will cause this issue. Like the IAC and coolant sensor off the top of my head. Have you made sure everything is hooked up and wired properly? If you have fuel spark and air it kind of has my head scratching, no boost leaks or exhaust leaks? There is a no start sticky on the main page that has the run down of everything, maybe check that out.
 
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TSI_too_slow said:
Good morning yall. 2g Talon tsi, 7bolt. As my header says... I think I screwed up. just rebuilt the engine. all went well except the Vehicle Cranks and wont start. It has Fuel, Spark and Air. I found the crank sensor pigtail was missing, spliced on a new one. It cranks better now, much more consistent. Still wont start. CAR HAS ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS, first time working with adjustable gears. Exhaust is coming out the air inlet side of the turbo. This leads me to believe my timing is off on the cams, am I right? I want to make sure im thinking correctly before removing all my pullies and the timing cover again to reset timing again, in car this time.

Thanks guys. Jake.
Click to expand...
I have no idea how it's possible to get exhaust out of a turbo inlet. Recheck mechanical timing and do a compression test. Report back.
 
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@609DSM thank you for the advice. I am also scratching my head. I was thinking the crank sensor
being disconnected was the issue. I figured after I put the new pigtail on it would fire. im quite confused and concerned myself.
 
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@dsm609 I have checked all connectors I can think of. The previous owner is going to come over and
see what he can come up with. Im at a dead end. I don't believe theres a boost leak anywhere. Same with exhaust, I made sure all were sealed up tight before trying to start it.
 
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I guess next step is just to pull the balancer off and check timing at TDC and see how it looks after 6 rotations again. That will exile timing as an issue. Im just as a loss of ideas on this one.
 
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Pictures of timing gears and lower timing notch would help. Compression before the rebuild or after? Perhaps the timing gears are completely off. Some of these eBay gears are completely jacked up and difficult to get straight in my experience.
 
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@Vegas smith Compression is after rebuild at 170psi. I didn't check compression before hand. They're FP Cam gears, I try not to touch ebay parts, they've caused me nothing but pain in the past. Ill get pictures tonight after I get the crank pulley off and have it at TDC.
 
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What cam sensor do you have? If the crank sensor pigtail was gone, perhaps a 1G CAS was providing both signals?

As for exhaust coming out the compressor inlet, there's either way too much overlap between cams or you installed one of the cams 180 out, or perhaps you got an Evo 4-9 cam somewhere.
 
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@motomattx I have not switched them. cyl 1 & 2 wires wont reach cyl 3 & 4. I did confirm spark on all cylinders though. as well as injector pulse.
 
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@delta448 I have a 1g cas. Previous owner told me that it will not fire without a crank sensor because its tuned on dsm link so the 1g cas can read timing with the 2g Crank sensor. That's why I thought the new pigtail would solve my issue for sure. If my timing marks line up after the 6th rotation then how am I to know a cam is 180 degrees out?
 
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Some adjustable cam gears have timing marks on both sides of the sprocket, I've even seen 1 brand that had them marked for all the versions of 4g63 on the same gear. The dowel pins for the cams should be pointed straight up from the center bolt.

A 2G using a 1G CAS can use the older sensor to supply both cam and crank sensor signals, even with ecmlink.
 
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Could he have a bad coolant temp sensor?

I had my CAS off 180* when I put my head back together, and it didn't start until I flipped it around. There's a indent on the CAS that should be on top when #1 cylinder is at tdc iirc.
 
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delta448 said:
Possibly a bad CTS, but I don't think it's as big an issue on a 2G. In my experience, the engine would still kick and miss and then reek of flooding when I had a bad CTS.
Click to expand...

Will you be able to see a bad cts on a log?

OP, how about posting a log to make sure everything else is in order?
 
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A CAS on a 1g, even if turned 180* out, will still start and run the car although not real good. My White 90 GSX came to me that way. It reeked of raw fuel and needed a timing job. When I did the timing belt, I put a set of cams in and low and behold, the CAS was 180* out, which allowed it to fire the plug a millisecond BEFORE the injector pulsed, explaining the raw fuel smell. I don't think the CTS is as sensitive on a 2g as they are on the 1g's at not starting if they are bad, like @delta448 said.
 
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Also, I had link installed and I could not tell if the CAS was correct or not and wouldn't have known if I hadn't looked right at the blade to see if it was in time. I even showed my son and said "does this look funny to you?" and then showed him the dot and the mark that DIDN'T line up. Changing cams is the only way I new it was installed incorrectly and that kid drove the car for months when he bought it, and it was that way the whole time (but he never liked the way it ran....now I know why).
 
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tk106 said:
Will you be able to see a bad cts on a log?
Click to expand...

A 2G CTS usually fails in a way that causes an open circuit, which the ECU interprets as a high resistance value or in other words, a really cold engine. If you're seeing coolant temp values on a logger that are under the ambient air temp, it's probably bad.
 
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