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How to properly paint your calipers. (5 steps)

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This is a very simple and easy process. I have $40 worth of materials, but that is because I spent more money on quality products. If you wanted to, you could do it for closer to $10-$20. I am doing this in a manner that will allow it to last for many years to come. My clearcoat costs $21, my primer costs $11 and my paint and brake parts cleaner was $8.

Step 1: Preparation.
Remove all old paint, rust, dust, dirt, etc with a wire wheel. You can use sandpaper, but the wire wheel is much easier and gets in all the crevices. This may take a while, but remember: the better you prep, the better the results. Remove everything until you are down to bare metal.

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Step 2: CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN.
Now it is time to clean the calipers. You want them as clean as possible, that way the coating can properly bond to them. Use some degreaser, mineral spirits, brake parts cleaner, or whatever you have that is strong enough to get it really clean and that is RESIDUE FREE. I used brake parts cleaner.


Step 3: The primer.
After making sure the calipers are completely clean and dry, it is time for the primer. The primer will help the paint stay bonded to the surface. I used a high heat primer just to be safe.

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Step 4: The paint.
After the primer is dry, it is time to lay the paint on it. On the back of my can, it said that you can paint it after 2 hours of spraying primer. But be sure to read your can, because unless you buy the same one that I did, it will likely have different recommended times. I applied 2 coats of paint. The first was a light coat, and the 2nd was a medium coat. It appeared that there was full coverage after the 2nd coat, but if you think you need a 3rd then go for it. Just remember that you need to allow each coat a few minutes or an hour for tacking, otherwise you could experience running.

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Step 5: The clearcoat.
I allowed the paint to dry overnight. And then applied the clear the next morning. Just make sure you haven't got your finger grease on the paint, and make sure there is no dust on it before spraying.

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Here are the items that I used. I used these because I have found over the years that these are the 3 products that work BEST with each other. That clear gets REALLY hard once cured, allowing it to last for a long time. And I have found that that primer likes to stick to bare metal better than regular rattle can primer. I used the farm paint just for fun 2 years ago on some random crap, and to my surprise it is still shiny to this day.

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Following this process should give you some very smooth looking calipers that should last for many years, assuming that you did everything just right and did not mess it up. If you mess something up, it is not my fault or my responsibility. I described everything on this article exactly how I did it, and it worked like a charm for me. If it does not work for you, then you have done something wrong or used cheap products. Try again LOL.
 
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