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1G Transmission rebuild time???

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Is that the reverse Idler? It has seen some grinds, maybe still rolling forward when trying to engage at some point. IDK if you can dress those gears and make it better or not but I would dress them at least, or find another idler.

Yea it’s the reverse idler. I’m picking up another tranny today. Hope that one is good.
 
R never feels like the others. A habit of mine from way back is to always stick it in 4th to slow things down before going for R. In anything I drive, DSM or not.
 
R never feels like the others. A habit of mine from way back is to always stick it in 4th to slow things down before going for R. In anything I drive, DSM or not.

I know it doesn’t feel like the other gears since they’re straight cut. I do know that trick but it shouldn’t get stuck halfway even when going into second or fourth first. Think this is a byproduct of when you have worn out shifter bushing, at the shifter base, shifter assembly and at the trans, that has been driven that way for a while. Don’t know if that’s correct but it’s just my guess. Also could be from moving forward while trying to reverse as Marty stated.

I will update when I take the second trans apart. Hopefully the reverse idler looks better than this one
 
The collar thing acts as the seal, yes. It's part metal, part rubber seal, one whole unit part # MD747660 (for a 2G), so cross reference with your VIN just in case. Also my reverse is exactly like yours. Half the time it gets stuck to a 'midway' point, and as soon as I let off the clutch it either grinds or gets pushed into position. In that case I usually go into first then into reverse while holding the clutch down to synchronize all the gears. If somebody came up to me and asked to swap my manual for an autobox I'd take it in a heartbeat. f*** manuals and all their problems (there, I said it). :notgood:
 
I see. Is it possible to pull the lever with trans assembled? I’ll have to take a look.

Lol. I enjoy manual too much. All my personal cars except for my jeep, have always been manual. I just need a manual car in my life.
 
I can add that Ive never owned an auto before on anything in my life, ever. For performance, I cant understand how anyone could want to, considering what I feel like is taken away from it all by doing so. An injury I can totally understand, thats different. Even though the parts situation is what it is. Truth is they are still out there if you really want them. Just gotta want it bad enough to make it happen. Every time I hear or see a really cool car that was once manual has gone auto, deep down inside, I feel like that car is now ruined, and I am instantly no longer interested in it in the same way. I know it sounds kinda messed up. Maybe I just dont understand?
 
The collar thing acts as the seal, yes. It's part metal, part rubber seal, one whole unit part # MD747660 (for a 2G), so cross reference with your VIN just in case. Also my reverse is exactly like yours. Half the time it gets stuck to a 'midway' point, and as soon as I let off the clutch it either grinds or gets pushed into position. In that case I usually go into first then into reverse while holding the clutch down to synchronize all the gears. If somebody came up to me and asked to swap my manual for an autobox I'd take it in a heartbeat. f*** manuals and all their problems (there, I said it). :notgood:

Sorry Stefan. There’s no way to remove the selector without remove the two roll pins. On left and right.

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So I took the second trans apart and pulled the reverse idler. Mine is worn about .5mm at the tip so I’ll be using this one

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Sorry about that, I should have mentioned you'll need to remove those pins to slide the whole shaft out. But the reason I suggest changing it is because you already have it disassembled, but it's up to you. Personally I'll be trying to remove the press pin on the top of the shifter from outside the car and do it that way.
 
Sorry about that, I should have mentioned you'll need to remove those pins to slide the whole shaft out. But the reason I suggest changing it is because you already have it disassembled, but it's up to you. Personally I'll be trying to remove the press pin on the top of the shifter from outside the car and do it that way.

Ah. I see what you’re talking about, you can just punch out the lever mechanism.
 
Question.

Can I reuse all the bearings if I press them out? Haven’t taken third gear stack apart but it feels the same as the one I just picked up. Also don’t hear anything abnormal when I spin 3rd and 4th gear so don’t know if I want to go through the trouble of taking it apart
 
Following close Tony, as I have a trans I need to take apart for a 3rd gear grind (Jacks Stage2 Drag). I am a bit concerned with taking it apart like you, but I have done everything else so far. Thanks for taking so many pictures and documenting it! And thanks to all that are chiming in! :thumb:

Marty! It’s not hard to disassemble the trans. Haven’t taken the stacks apart but even that doesn’t seem too bad as long as you have a press and a bearing separator. Here are a few tips

When you reassemble the main cases
1. Make sure you have the magnet, 5th gear oil guide back in and position the reverse gear shaft so you can thread the bolt in.

2. Fork and guides aren’t too bad. It’s like playing operation but in a way tighter space. This is the position you want theses thing positioned to remove the forks. While trying to pull up and away, use your other hand to pull away the 1st & 2nd gear stack

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3. For the fifth gear, I couldn’t get a puller on there. There’s no room under the gear so I used a small bearing separator to pull it off.

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Thank you Tony! I will be opening up that Jacks transmission and will need to work on 3rd gear, more than likely, a synchro.
Greatly appreciated! :thumb:
 
Think I found where the glitter is coming from. The bearing race comes out easily from this part of the case when I flip it over and it looks like it’s actually spinning in the case. The ones in the second trans are pretty tight.

If I swap this part of the case, I’m guessing I’ll need to check clearance and shim properly?

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Figures out the race should spin in the case but those marks do not look good. Just put it back together since this thread is dead. I have a back up trans so I’ll put this one back in and recheck the oil after a handful of miles.
 
The bearing race usually doesnt fall out like that, if it was spinning and chewed up the bearing housing thats it.

If you where to swap the bearing housing from another trans then yes, you would have to check clearance and shim
 
One MIGHT be able to "peen" the bearing race to get it to hold, but that is really iffy.
 
I can’t push either one in by hand and they need a light tap with a mallet. Once they’re in, they don’t feel loose and spin freely. Then when I flip the case to put it on, they fall out with the slightest tap.
 
I can’t push either one in by hand and they need a light tap with a mallet. Once they’re in, they don’t feel loose and spin freely. Then when I flip the case to put it on, they fall out with the slightest tap.
Every one I've ever done that's how they are. If you sort of turn them as you install you can slide them in without any extra help. If you flip the case they may fall out. I've done a bunch. I dont think thats your issue. I thought the fluid looked ok. Any silvery stuff I see is usually around intermediate from first gear chewing the case or around front diff ring gear
 
Ah ok. I thought they shouldn’t fall out since it take some effort to install them. I was watching the video again and see that this guys case has similar markings so I’m guessing it’s not a big issue.

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