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For 650WHP AWD what can we do

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Yeah, there is a lot of pressure variability. I stopped looking at pressure and look at fork position. With the rpm we see the centrifugal force on the fingers is huge. Static holding my pedal on the stop is 700psi, put it on the 2step and it drops to right about 300psi.
 
The only thing I use the Racepak intelli-gauge for is as a ref to change clutch hit settings (fork position), and even then it is at 800rpm to stabilize the centrifugal effect on the readings. I see 440psi peak during a 4800rpm no-prep launch, but only 500psi peak @ 8600rpm on the shift.

Grant
 
Learning to slip the clutch correctly has saved me. When I first started building dsm's I killed a stock trans at 350hpish from launching it badly. I have had same stock trans in my car for years and its currently seeing 58lb/min. I am also very aware once I turn it up next summer it will be in the ball park of hurting 3/4 just when boost comes on at 65lb/min+.
 
I would like to build a 650WHP transmission and what’s now on the market to do so.
I would love a evo 3 but that’s long gone.
So what do people do know for are cars?

http://www.teamrip.com/ very hard to get hold of, but keep trying or fill out request form on John's website. Do not know if he still does staged builds or just
rebuilds. I do not know of anyone else who still does DSM. I did a complete drivetrain, transmission, rear diff., awd xref case with evo 1st gear. To the best of
my knowledge there are no more EVO 1-3 gear sets around. 650 whp is 780 under the hood, in my opinion there is no DSM out there that will last very long with this power.
 
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idk why everyone boners over the evo stuff. If you have any turbo and cam first is too tall, none of it is any stronger, you don't need double synchro's to shift fast if you fix the clutch, and the 5th is too tall if you have any cam in a 2.0. Unless you have the Evo finals, then the first and 5 kicks ass.


FWIW, there are only like 3 things you can do to a dsm trans with oem gears to improve strength/durability.
1. upper torrington bearing mod
2. 4 spider/welded cd
3. 92 and earlier 3/4 gears and hub/slider.

Anything else is a waste of time, and any "builds" outside of that do nothing but marginally help shift quality. So really this hole "wasting trans by running them till the break sh**" is bs. They ain't gonna live longer no matter what you do.

Guys should be bitching at everyone who recommends a mega clutch. I'm guilty of running more clutch than I needed, and it's hard on the trans. But I've been backing it off and going faster as a result. (i'm down to an ebay XTD STG4 right now 9's, 144mph,3200lbs - You don't need a twin, or a 2900, or a 3200, or some 5000lbs pressure plate and puck disc) If you have a 700 ft*lbs clutch, your trans will see 700 ft*lbs regardless of what your engine makes.

Guys should be bitching at the shops and 1320vid, and the bs posers who glorify having some mega power car. a 500hp dsm is a fairly fast car, it's enough to get out of hand, it's enough to put you in jail, it's enough to kill you, it pulls hard enough to impress some bimbo with big tits. And guess what, they stay together pretty well at that level if your not an idiot. Even the trans does! you start thinking you need 7-8-900, and sh** goes downhill fast. And yet every broke dick in the world runs these poor cars into the ground trying to do it.

Anyway, if you have a 650whp car, budget a trans a year. Use a sensible clutch, and keep the torque low, it will last pretty well. At the bare min, I recommend taking it apart and checking over/repair/weld/4spider the cd, make sure bearings are good, and some fresh synchros, even if they are good used ones LOL. That's what I did till I bought a PPG.

For those wondering about replacement parts, I wouldn't hold your breath. It will be a massive undertaking, and they will be expensive. A stock replacement set, might end up costing just as much as a PPG set, and it will likely be a pay upfront, and wait 2 years kind of deal. I'm thinking it's gonna need like 100 sets at $3-4k paid upfront. Start saving your pennies.

Thanks for this bit of enlightenment, everything you said is true, when I had TeamRip rebuild stage 1 to stage 2 my entire drive train, John said not to use the clutch that I had planned on, and to use something else. His reasoning I believe was the same as yours. He said as you call mega clutch would cause the transmission to go out a lot sooner. Sometimes the truth hurts but it is necessary. I figure 400 at the wheels which is 480 under the hood is plenty and this drivetrain will last a long time.
 
I would like to build a 650WHP transmission and what’s now on the market to do so.
I would love a evo 3 but that’s long gone.
So what do people do know for are cars?
Tim Zimmer... tmzperformance.com
 
Thanks for this bit of enlightenment, everything you said is true, when I had TeamRip rebuild stage 1 to stage 2 my entire drive train, John said not to use the clutch that I had planned on, and to use something else. His reasoning I believe was the same as yours. He said as you call mega clutch would cause the transmission to go out a lot sooner. Sometimes the truth hurts but it is necessary. I figure 400 at the wheels which is 480 under the hood is plenty and this drivetrain will last a long time.

Some "mega" clutches are friendly to the drivetrain, while some of the mid-range clutches can be an absolute disaster. Unsprung puck clutches aren't easy or pleasant to drive and are not kind to synchros, whereas TMZ's line of full-face South Bend clutches would be a lot better all-around. There is a lot more to clutch choice than just a power rating.
 
You need enough clutch to hold your power at max torque down the track, but that's too much clutch for an efficient launch. You can't just bolt in a clutch and fix that basic problem. The external controller basically acts as an adjustable torque limiter during launch, but can also be used to limit the torque spike after the shifts. Even an expensive adjustable centrifugal assist clutch can be made to work more efficiently by adding an external controller. Bottom line is you can get more power down with an external clutch hit controller than you can without one, not sure why it's so hard to see the benefit in that.

Grant
 
You need enough clutch to hold your power at max torque down the track, but that's too much clutch for an efficient launch. You can't just bolt in a clutch and fix that basic problem. The external controller basically acts as an adjustable torque limiter during launch, but can also be used to limit the torque spike after the shifts. Even an expensive adjustable centrifugal assist clutch can be made to work more efficiently by adding an external controller. Bottom line is you can get more power down with an external clutch hit controller than you can without one, not sure why it's so hard to see the benefit in that.

Grant
Funny story, I searched "external clutch hit controller" because I wasn't exactly sure what you meant and this is the first link I clicked:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/c...it-down-requires-a-little-fabrication.492939/
 
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