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2G Not getting a Check Engine Light.

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97|SpyderGST

Probationary Member
12
2
Dec 10, 2019
Bakersfield, California
Hey everyone,

I just picked up a 97 Spyder GTS and I know it's overheating but I'm not getting any kinda lights to say it is. I checked the ECU with OBD II reader and it's not giving me any error codes. The only problem I'm seeing is when I'm testing it to pass SMOG and it doesn't pass.

I just changed the Oil and that helped keep it cooler, but not for long. I'm planning to change the coolant next. What other things should I be planning on switching out or checking to try to help keep the new beast cool?

Thanks all I'm new the game, I'm glad you guys are here and I have been reading a lot of other posts and I've been learning a lot. I just wanted to thank everyone I hope someday I can help others too.

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When does it overheat and how high does the needle go? Is it with the air conditioner on?

There are many things that can cause overheating issues and changing the oil is not one of them. If you plan on changing the coolant, I'd replace the thermostat since it's cheap. It can be as simple as an air pocket and extreme as a head gasket. As madmax stated above, make sure the fans turn on.

Other things you can inspect.
Radiator fins - check for blockage
Radiator hoses - check upper and lower to make sure they feel about the same when it's fully warmed up.
If you have a front mount or ac condenser, make sure there's no blockage so air flows through both. You can use a garden hose or compressed air.
 
Check your coolant level!!!! Maybe some has been lost somehow, it takes a good bit of heat for you to get an overheating light (I could be wrong) mine ran hot when I blew a coolant line and I saw no warping of my head or block.

On the main page there is a maintenance sticky thread. Not sure what engine you have since I dont know the spyder badging very well but it will help as a guide for you in case you are forgetting something.

IMO first check timing and replace belt if you dont know when it was last done, check every belt for integrity. Definitely do a coolant flush and check the transmission fluid. Check tires and brake fluid also the pads and integrity of the calipers. Dont forget the spark plugs and while you're doing that grab a multimeter and set to ohms and check your wires make sure they read out, you should check the coil pack as well.

If you need help just ask, these cars can be nightmares because they are more often than not owned by young kids who dont keep up with maintenance. At the same time I absolutely love the styling and engineering of these cars and the history of them is pretty unique too!
 
Before you pull things off run the car and when it gets up to temp make sure both hoses are around the same, they should be pretty warm. If not there might be a blockage or something going on with the thermostat perhaps it's not opening.

I'd second replacing the coolant hoses/coolant and the thermostat just because it's all very easy. While you have the hoses off maybe flush the radiator and pressure test it for leaks and take things from there. If it's still overheating you may have to consider the cooling ports in the engine and some other items.
 
One of the fans comes on and runs just fine. But the engine gets way too hot just idling, almost too hot to the touch. I would say the gauge stays at 50% for 5 to 10 minutes then goes up to 75% after 10mins of idling. These are all great ideas, I'm going to start by replacing the thermostat and the coolant. I'm worried now it could be a head gasket, I was planning on getting them all replaced a bit later, but it may be sooner if this doesn't work. I'll keep you guys posted. I'm going to see if my local parts store has a thermostat in stock.

Thanks again guys!

I wanted to check the coolant hoses before I started on anything else I did find the hose at the bottom was much cooler than the top one after a few minutes of idling. I wanted to add a video in case I'm doing something wrong
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Thanks again.
 
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If the lower hose isn’t warming up your thermostat is not opening up. Could be that your radiator cap is not functioning correctly as well if you see steam coming out of it. Nice clean bay btw.
 
I just wanted to thank everyone for the help. It was the Thermostat not working. Once I got it switched out the temp gauge stayed at 50% and the fans kicked on any time it went over that and cooled it back down.
The car still seems hot, compared to my other cars. Meaning the water hoses and valve cover seem hot to the touch. Is this normal?

Thanks again for the help.
 
The car still seems hot, compared to my other cars. Meaning the water hoses and valve cover seem hot to the touch. Is this normal?
+1 what Paul said but just as an FYI these cars run really hot. Don't be surprised if you burn yourself trying to reach over the vc to adjust something.
 
Piggyback on pauleyman - "hot to the touch" is to be expected since the thermostat doesn't open until the coolant temp reaches about 180 degrees. And bear in mind - that is when it begins to open to allow coolant to flow. The fans don't turn on until the coolant reaches around 210 degrees. So it can be expected that your hoses and thermostat housing will feel the same as a pot of boiling water.
 
Ok so I watched your video and read your issue. Do you have an ob2 reader that will display coolant temperature or are you going off just the gauge? If you can get one that will read temperature it will help. So now onto the issue. When it is at temperature do you have heat? The reason I ask this is because if you have good heat then you can almost eliminate that your water pump is flowing and you don't flow issue from the water pump. From there I would go to what condition is the coolant in. Is it still green or gold or is it rusty looking or brown. Is it a milky color almost white? If it is green then no worries there. From what you were saying on your video, the top hose is considerable hotter than the lower which it should be hotter but if that lower hose is ice cold and the top is hot you probably have a thermostat issue. Also what was the condition of the old oil you drained. Was that milky or just black or clear. If it was milky you may have a head gasket issue. And if the coolant is milky then the sandwich oil cooler may have failed internally as I don't think there is another place where oil can mix within the coolant system. I'm not 100% familiar with the 2g but I believe the thermostat should open on these cars at around 190-195 for the OEM thermostat. So if you can get a ecu reading from the ob2 port and see when you get to that temperature if you have heat and then check the lower hose for temperature we can then rule out somethings.
 
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