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Doing a 7 to 6 bolt swap

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chaiden corbin

Probationary Member
4
1
Dec 13, 2019
star, Idaho
Hi I have a completely stock 95 gst with a stock 7 bolt. I’m planning on swapping that over to a built 6 bolt. Does any one know anything I have to change for the 6 to go in or is it just a straight bolt up?
 
I've done it several times, there's nothing much more to it really other than the additional trimming of the timing belt pulley bracket to clear the water pump and the wiring change.
 
are you swapping a long block or just a short block?

kit requires additional parts on a long block vs short block.
Long block do

Oh boy, well first off welcome to the best car forum out there!

Now, to start you off, I suggest going over both these tried and tested write-ups/guides:

https://www.roadraceengineering.com/6boltswap.htm

http://magnusmotorsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/1gina2g.pdf

Haven't done it myself (yet), but I've read it's one of the harder swaps to do. Personally I'm sticking to my 7 bolt :tease::ohdamn:
Thanks man that’s a lot of help also I like your eagle talon
 
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Kryndon link some sites were explain everything, that was don long time ago and was our main sites to look for information when we first start doing It.

There are a few things we have manage to work around, like keeping the transmission shift weight, you don’t need to cut it off, also if you want to retain the motor mount bracket hole to use the tensioner tool, you need to swap a 12mm bolt from the water pump to a bevel screw, because the 12mm head bolt gets on the way of the tensioner bool.

About the 1g CAS with the random miss fire, you can get a kiggly crank sensor to mount it on the timing belt area (you will need to do a balance shaft delete).

The other way (original way PRE did it) is to use a 7bolt front oil pump case and mate it to the 6 bolt block, it is not hard but it does take some time and attention which you have to drill the block in order to bolt the front cover.

The first swap I did was with a 1g CAS, but I got the random miss fire and couldn’t get rid of it, so I did the front case swap (like originally PRE did it).

The second time I used the Kiggly crank sensor, and the couple of times I have done it lately, I just use the 1g CAS which I’m using Link.

Hope it helps to decide which way you want to do it.

Miguel.
 
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