I have a 97 gsx, so today i jumped my car, started to the cables off, let it run for about 30 minutes, i shut it off, and dead battery, already replaced the alternator twice within a month from auto zone, battery health was tested good since it hold’s charge, also got 5 pending codes
P0141-bank 1 sensor 2
P0446-evap vent control
P1104 turbo wastegate sensor malfunction
P1105 -fuel pressure solenoid malfunction
P1500-generator fr terminal malfunction

think its all related to one thing? Would a bad alternator cause these codes? Also read my ecm could be bad, previous owner told me he changed it to a 99 as well, not sure how true it is, any information would help! Thanks

P1500 has to do with the alt. The rest have nothing to do with it. Auto stores are all notorious for selling bad rebuilt alts over and over and over (esp Autoz..). But before you return it again do:
1) Check the dash battery (charge) light to be working (should go on with the key just in the on position when engine is off). If it's not working there's no voltage to the alt field coil and the alt won't put out. There's also a backup "generator relay" should the light not work but it's usually broken.
2) With the engine running measure the DC voltage on the battery terminals. If it's not 13.9-14.9 volts your alts not working.

All of those other codes could be because someone removed the solenoids for those other systems, verify if they are there or gone.

^ Yes. This may help: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-engine-bay-electrical-connections.298047/

luv2rallye said:

P1500 has to do with the alt. The rest have nothing to do with it. Auto stores are all notorious for selling bad rebuilt alts over and over and over (esp Autoz..). But before you return it again do:
1) Check the dash battery (charge) light to be working (should go on with the key just in the on position when engine is off). If it's not working there's no voltage to the alt field coil and the alt won't put out. There's also a backup "generator relay" should the light not work but it's usually broken.
2) With the engine running measure the DC voltage on the battery terminals. If it's not 13.9-14.9 volts your alts not working.

Click to expand...

Ill make sure to check that tonight, i know my friend switched out 3 alternators from autozone before he got one that was running right, and slap the links for the solenoids, theyre not loading up, website does but when you click for like fuel pressure it says error

Parts store alternators as said are 90% junk, the best thing you could do is have yours rebuilt by a local alternator rebuilder, other than that a Bosch reman unit is pretty hard to beat for the money, a lot of us just switch to the GM style of alternator and be done with it.

luv2rallye said:

P1500 has to do with the alt. The rest have nothing to do with it. Auto stores are all notorious for selling bad rebuilt alts over and over and over (esp Autoz..). But before you return it again do:
1) Check the dash battery (charge) light to be working (should go on with the key just in the on position when engine is off). If it's not working there's no voltage to the alt field coil and the alt won't put out. There's also a backup "generator relay" should the light not work but it's usually broken.
2) With the engine running measure the DC voltage on the battery terminals. If it's not 13.9-14.9 volts your alts not working.

Click to expand...

Are you talking about this light?

The red battery light with the + and - on it (next to 0 on the tach).