I have a older APEXI SUPER AFC. Im trying to adjust my TPS. Now if i check it right at the sensor i get the .48ohms. and if i check the super Afc in the car it's telling me the TPS is Set at .243... Which one do i listen to.?? My car is running funky and i hate taking the TB on and off to adjust the TPS.

I would set the TPS sensor to OEM spec. (cant remember what it is off the top of my head) Where are you getting the 243? Is this from the SAFC or a Pocket logger? If that's the case I would verify your wiring to make sure it is hooked up correctly. RRE has a decent write-up on the SAFC maybe it can help. http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafc.htm

The super AFC is hooked up correctly. Haven't touched it. My bad idle came from me changing the fiav gasket and i took the TPS off and didn't mark it. I have the TPS set correct under the hood at .49 and that's what the book says. But when i check it inside the car on the AFC it says it's set at .243 Do you have a super AFC? Can you take a pic of the display where it shows the TPS volts when your car is idle???

My question is. Should i go off what the super AFC is telling my TPS is set at?

I dont have a SAFC but just off my experience with them. I would suggest if your going to stay with a SAFC to get a pocket logger. You need to see what the ECU reads more than the SAFC. This will also help with trying to see what the ECU actually sees. If you have the car off and sweep through the pedal does the SAFC go between 0% to 100%?

The factory spec is 0.5 volts output not ohms. The SAFC makes it easy to measure the output voltage since that's what it displays.

steve said:

The factory spec is 0.5 volts output not ohms. The SAFC makes it easy to measure the output voltage since that's what it displays.

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I thought that's what it was displaying under we sensor check. But when I checked it under the hood I got a different number. would you do me a favor and just take a picture of your throttle bodie area, tps.. please

So I have to adjust it then. My SUPER AFC showing it's at .237.. BUT can you please take a pic of your THROTTLE BODIE AREA.. PLEASE. The TPS specifically.. thanks

My DSM is currently 1200 miles away from me. You wouldn't be able to see anything from here...

Back in 2010 or so, it looked like this:

steve said:

My DSM is currently 1200 miles away from me. You wouldn't be able to see anything from here...

Back in 2010 or so, it looked like this:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

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I just wanted to see the TPS.. the pic is perfect. Do you have a super AFC you could take a picture on sensor check. I just double checked my today and it was at .223. So I adjusted it to .495/ .500

That should be fine. Make sure that your IPS is functioning too.. The TB has a metal ground strap and the intake manifold a ground cable to the firewall for completing the IPS circuit.

steve said:

That should be fine. Make sure that your IPS is functioning too.. The TB has a metal ground strap and the intake manifold a ground cable to the firewall for completing the IPS circuit.

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A ground strap on the TB? I know I seen the one on the intake manifold to fire wall. Hmm. Just looked at the picture. My car has never had that strap or the throttle Bodie stay and it ran fine.. I noticed this when I took the throttle Bodie apart to replace the gasket I found a little piece of metal I guess the old own put in to block the fiav... So instead of using that I bought the actuall plate from stm and I got longer Allen bolts for it. I have it all sealed now. None of it leaks boost. I'm just so confused. My car would start and idle fine in the beginning of the summer. Only when I would give it gas the pedal would get stuck and it would rev up until I unstuck tb by hand. So I took it off and realised the fiav gasket went bad and leaked coolant into my throttle Bodie and gummed up and that's what was making my throttle Bodie stick. I got it all cleaned out and snapping back like it suppose to and when I put it back together it was surging. So I did a BLT and found a leak on the j pipe off the turbo. So I fixed that. Now it starts up and revs rights to like 2400rpms and as it warms up and drops to like 1800rpm then it starts surgering. I also have cams in it. And it used to idle perfect and sounded great . So I know what it should sound like. I can't figure it outtttttt.. how far are you from NJ? Lol. I have a spair room you can stay in and I'll pay for your food.. I have it at a friend's house cause I don't wanna put insurance on it and it just sit. So all summer I would pack all my tools up and tried everything. Bought a new TPS and a is

This was when it was running good

steve said:

That should be fine. Make sure that your IPS is functioning too.. The TB has a metal ground strap and the intake manifold a ground cable to the firewall for completing the IPS circuit.

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I was looking up about that strap and I seen you where saying with it the ECU dosnt know the TB is closed. I don't have it and when I look at my super AFC at the throttle on idle it's at 0%

Understand that what the ECU is looking for is different than what the SAFC is looking for. In fact the SAFC's job is to lie to the ECU about how much air is entering the engine so that the ECU lowers or raises the fuel it tells the injectors to spray.

The SAFC's normal display shows the throttle percentage which it scales from the range of voltages it's seen, the 2G ECU does the same so the SAFC display 0% when the TPS is set to 0.5v because it hasn't seen the voltage be lower since it's been turned on.

The 1G ECU cares about the actual TPS voltage and the IPS. Most of the time the ECU only cares about the changes in the TPS voltage, Did the throttle open or close more than it was before, but it has checks to see if both the TPS and IPS are working which use actual voltages.

The Throttle Body is likely the most sensitive part of the engine. Tiny changes in the air volume make big changes in the way the engine idles. I messed up my original TB by cleaning the butterfly when I changed the shaft seals. I also had to replace the gasket between the TB and Fast Idle Air Valve when I opened it up because the original rubber gasket had swollen.

Then there are ISC's...

If you have removed the FIAV and ISC your going to have fun getting the car to work as a daily driver in NJ. it's not going to want to start or stay running until it heats up. It's going to want to stall when you take you foot off the gas or it will idle too high and surge if you try and adjust the BISS to keep it from doing the other things.

It's always been blocked and ran fine for years. I just bought the actual plate. I wish I could get in touch with the guy who worked on my car. He new what he was doing but I don't. He has a gm maf with a translator I it. Also I went to check the obd to see if any codes came up and there's only like 3 prongs in it..weird. But I have a data loger and need a Ms dos computer. I'm determined to get it going... I'll let you know.

steve said:

Understand that what the ECU is looking for is different than what the SAFC is looking for. In fact the SAFC's job is to lie to the ECU about how much air is entering the engine so that the ECU lowers or raises the fuel it tells the injectors to spray.

The SAFC's normal display shows the throttle percentage which it scales from the range of voltages it's seen, the 2G ECU does the same so the SAFC display 0% when the TPS is set to 0.5v because it hasn't seen the voltage be lower since it's been turned on.

The 1G ECU cares about the actual TPS voltage and the IPS. Most of the time the ECU only cares about the changes in the TPS voltage, Did the throttle open or close more than it was before, but it has checks to see if both the TPS and IPS are working which use actual voltages.

The Throttle Body is likely the most sensitive part of the engine. Tiny changes in the air volume make big changes in the way the engine idles. I messed up my original TB by cleaning the butterfly when I changed the shaft seals. I also had to replace the gasket between the TB and Fast Idle Air Valve when I opened it up because the original rubber gasket had swollen.

Then there are ISC's...

If you have removed the FIAV and ISC your going to have fun getting the car to work as a daily driver in NJ. it's not going to want to start or stay running until it heats up. It's going to want to stall when you take you foot off the gas or it will idle too high and surge if you try and adjust the BISS to keep it from doing the other things.

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Is it true these cars have to relearn driving. Have you ever heard of that?

And since you said little bits of change in the air would affect allot. Well my car had a 3.5” maf on it that I thought was bad. So I ordered one and when I got it , it was a 3 inch. So I changed the couplings and changed the translator to 3 . Would that make a big difference ya think? Sorry for all the questions. You seem to know what your talking about .. Thanks

mitsuowner1991 said:

Is it true these cars have to relearn driving. Have you ever heard of that?

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Have?

They do learn things like long term fuel trims and idle parameters but the closer to stock they are the less those things are different from the defaults and disconnecting the power resets the ECU.

I'm not a fan of the MAF Translator. Did you change the switch settings when you swapped hotwire MAF's?

Damnn. I have a shit battery in and every time I go to work on it I keep jump starting it. So I guess I should get a good battery and start it everyday.. and I changed the switch in the translator from 3.5 to 3". And didn't touch any other nobs cause there not set. Just one is.. and I thought it was karman.. should I changed that on the AFC also.??

I'm sorry. I didn't block off my fiav. I just put the bypass plate in being the last person had a little piece of metal over the port. Can I ask what's the point of bypassing the FIAV ?