The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

ECMlink Fuel Pumps Cut Off With Throttle!?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

tdykes1234

Proven Member
70
0
Feb 12, 2013
Columbus, Indiana
So I installed my new throttle body today and while doing my tps adjustment with link, I discovered another issue the car seems to be having. With both fuel pumps running, when I would ease the throttle in and tps would read 3.6v, both pumps would shut off!? Now if I eased up on the throttle, the pumps would kick back on. If I tried to go past 3.6v, the pumps would start to come back on closer to WOT (5.00v). Battery was at 11.8v during the test, but would jump to 12.1 when the pumps kicked off. I'm at a loss here so any ideas would be great! Thanks everyone!!!
 
I'm not a link owner or user, so that question would be better answered by others on the site or at the Link forums, it may do that to go into the clear flood mode or something, how does it drive? it might not effect how it drives once it see's actual rpm's.
 
I haven't driven it yet but before my throttle body blew I couldn't go full throttle. It would pull up to a point, but the minute I pushed the throttle in too far it would just stop like it was hitting fuel cut. Im thinking that its been doing this the whole time and I've just now discovered the actual issue. I was thinking it was a boost leak or something, but now I know that's not the case
 
This is engine off?
Obviously not stock configuration maybe a little info into how the pumps are wired?

Link did add the fuel pump prime feature with the last firmware update.
Are the pump(s) is wired to run engine off?
 
TB seals could be shot.
Log if you can.
 
The pumps are activated via key then switch
Well if you wired a dual pump set up directly with a relay and switch, I find it hard to find a correlation to throttle input?

Unless the relay circuit is activated by an ECU controlled output controlled by link?

On a different note, not a big fan of running pumps entirely on physical switch input.
What I'm meaning there is no safety built into the fuel pump control.
OEM's wire electric fuel pumps in a certain way for safety.
God forbid something happens but if an accident/wreck occurs the last thing needed is a fuel pump staying on to feed a potential fire.
 
Thanks for the responses guys! I am unfortunately unable to post a log because the laptop I own does not have a network card installed. Like you guys, this confuses the hell out of me. What information from link were you guys wanting to see or what else should I log to give you guys more input when I try to look at it again?
 
Thanks for the responses guys! I am unfortunately unable to post a log because the laptop I own does not have a network card installed. Like you guys, this confuses the hell out of me. What information from link were you guys wanting to see or what else should I log to give you guys more input when I try to look at it again?
Shell out the $50 it costs to get a laptop. It's too much energy to try and guess at what your setup is. How are the pumps powered?
 
Well if you wired a dual pump set up directly with a relay and switch, I find it hard to find a correlation to throttle input?

Unless the relay circuit is activated by an ECU controlled output controlled by link?

On a different note, not a big fan of running pumps entirely on physical switch input.
What I'm meaning there is no safety built into the fuel pump control.
OEM's wire electric fuel pumps in a certain way for safety.
God forbid something happens but if an accident/wreck occurs the last thing needed is a fuel pump staying on to feed a potential fire.
I 100% agree with this as far as safety goes, you really should allow the ecu to control the pump if you street drive the car, my goal over the winter is an on board fire suppression system in fact, I have wanted one forever but had other things that needed the cash at the time on the car, hopefully I can grab one over the winter and get it installed.
 
Shell out the $50 it costs to get a laptop. It's too much energy to try and guess at what your setup is. How are the pumps powered?
The pump in the tank and the inline pump are both activated by a single switch. Im working being able to do just that but money is tight at the moment after purchasing the new throttle body :(
 
UPDATE: I used the "Activate Fuel Pump" in link and when I hit the button, it shut off my inline fuel pump and turned on my intank fuel pump? So I unhooked the inline wondering if it was just too many amps or something. Deactivated the fuel pump on link, hit the switch, and only the intank pump came on as it should. Started to press the throttle and got to a certain point and the pump cut off. I could hear the relay powering off with the pump. So, out of curiousity, I reactivated the pump using link, flipped the switch, pump comes on, I press the pedal all the way to the floor and no cut off!? This is crazy!!!
 
Do you have a low battery? Maybe hook up a trickle charger or main charger bring battery voltage up.

Is the inline pump wired to the same relay as the main?

Mayby your drawing too much power from the battery and not enough left to run the inline pump or drawing too much amperage through relay and its failing.

Did you do a rewire? I assume you did because you state running off a relay, but the factory fuel pump wire doesn't even support the factory pump with enough amps.
 
Do you have a low battery? Maybe hook up a trickle charger or main charger bring battery voltage up.

Is the inline pump wired to the same relay as the main?

Mayby your drawing too much power from the battery and not enough left to run the inline pump or drawing too much amperage through relay and its failing.

Did you do a rewire? I assume you did because you state running off a relay, but the factory fuel pump wire doesn't even support the factory pump with enough amps.

I am thinking that may very well be the issue! I haven't checked to see if doing a different wiring setup will fix this issue or not but it's in the plans for this weekend! Battery was good during the tests I performed and I actually had a charger on it just to keep charge in the battery. Thanks for the idea my man!
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top