TTnelco submitted a new DSM Profile :

See you in 6 months


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Well she finally arrived. Pretty much what I expected. Only a couple bad rust areas. Luckily one is in the spare tire well, and I was planning on cutting it out for a flat floor anyways. Other is near the front passenger tower. Going to have to see if I can repair or have to ge find a junk car to cut out a new piece. She did lose a ton of weight first day in the Florida sun though.

Been awhile since I’ve posted anything. Unfortunately I found termites in our downstairs apartment, so I have spent the last two months tearing down and rebuilding it.

I’ve finally got the time to start back on the GSX.

So far I’ve got the interior fully stripped out. Removed all the sound detonating material out. I guess I got lucky because it was for the most part easy to remove. Didn’t need dry ice or heat, just a puffy knife and a hammer. Body is in about as good a shape as I could ask for, considering it came from Wisconsin.





Only two bad rust spots. One is the spare tire well, which I conveniently planned on cutting out anyways, the other is on the passenger strut tower. Thankfully it’s not too bad, and I can fix it. I’m not sure if I’m going to cap it. I’ve thought of welding a cap to front strut bar I’m going to get, but I may just cut it out and replace that section.




Currently I’m working on getting the engine torn down, so I can pull it. I need to get all the minor rust taken care of, and paint it. Also need to do some work on the engine. Kinda just playing it by ear at this point, as far as what I’m going to focus on first. Once I get the engine out, I’ll be in a better position to make a game plan moving foward.

The tear down continues...

Got a lot done the last couple of weeks. I was really concerned when this came out of the engine, but everything looked fine.


I did not feel like spending the $70 to rent a cherry picker (the negative of living on an island), so i disassembled in in place. I took out the power steering, and just looped it for now, but I going to go ahead and de power the rack. Here what it looks like, as Ive seen some people ask about it on different threads.



Got the head taken apart, and removed. Then got underneath and removed the oil pan. Got the pistons out, and decided to keep the bearing caps on to protect the crank when i lowered it. I used a spiderweb of lines, and the engine mount to lower it onto some 2x4's. It was then I realized I hadn't broken the crank nut. I searched for ideas, and ultimately came up with this, it really wasn't that hard to break with this setup.


I just wedged 2 2x4's on the left side to keep it from moving (don't worry about the metal piece that seconds as a pretty sweet breaker-bar, it was there from a different failed idea) wrapped a 1x4 in a t-shirt and wedged it in so the crank would not rotate. Put the 1/2 ratchet in and it broke pretty easy. I did soak it in break free for about 10 minutes. Everything looked good. Cylinders were smooth, pistons look almost new. I think it might have been rebuilt at some point with new stock internals. Dropped the trans, got everything cleaned and stored. Next is cleaning up the engine bay. Seam welding all the seams, primer and paint.

So disclaimer, I’ve never done body work on a car, and I’ve never welded a thing in my life, so no bashing my welds

So I bought a $98 welder and decided that one of the more crucial spots in the chassis would be a great place to learn. I will say that I was certified in checking welds on boats, so even though they aren’t the prettiest, they penetrated good. (That’s what she said)

So basically I cut out all the rust, used a grinder with a wire brush to clean off undercoat and sealer in the wheel well, took it to bare metal, and went to town. I’d say the hardest part was shaping the sheet metal, all I had was a vice/anvil, a framing hammer, and some pliers. I’ll do a write up a thread once I grind the welds down, bondo, and paint. The Few I found on here don’t really explain very well, In case someone wants to attempt in the future. Biggest thing was measuring the frame before and after, and she didn’t move much if any.
I don't think there is any other bad rust spots needing repair up front, other than the front radiator/bumper support, but that's coming off anyways, Should be able to seam weld and prime the engine bay this week.

Hi , I keep my cars by EUREKA DRIVE, and take my wife to the pink bldg to see the dentist also did some boat racing at the Caribbean Club and the MIAMI-KEY LARGO race many times, this was a long time ago.
I have an engine hoist also anything you may need to work on your project.
You mention a road race build. are you planning on racing at Homestead , maybe we can help each other, let me know.

Mandy

Hey Mandy, glad to here there’s a DSM’er this far south. I appreciate the offer for the engine lift, I’ll probably need it when I put it back in, but that’s not going to be anytime very soon.

Yes, I plan on running at homestead, seabring, and west palm. Also, some others in the southeast. My dad is in Atlanta, and he runs a bunch around there. Trying to make Hyperfest next year, but I doubt I will have time.

I’m always down to help out with anything. I saw your fiberglass work when I first join here, very nice. I could definitely use so pointers there, as I plan on making some fiberglass or carbon fiber panels. I’ll PM you my contact info.

Sounds good,
Dont spend your money on carbon if you are going to do any W/W racing, anyways I can built fiber parts as light as carbon.
I have built 3 complte DSM plus a lot of loose parts now mostly MIATA parts..

Well been awhile since I updated. I quit my job and started a business, was tired of working for someone else. So I had to spend all my time getting it going, but I did get a few things done in the meantime.

I went ahead a welded all the seams in the engine bay and front wheel wells, then added seam sealer to keep the rust out. I also filled pretty much every hole I could with the welder, including everything coming through the firewall beside the throttle cables, shift cables, steering, brakes, trans reservoirs, and one more spot I’ll run everything else through. Went ahead and primed her with Rustoleum Bare Metal Primer. I was gong to just use Rustoleum to paint it, but i my new business I decided along with detailing boats, I would do fiberglass repair and gel coating. Crazy how it worked out, but I taught myself a lot and feel like I could lay down a nice paint job now, so I might spend a little more for a nice paint. I also partnered with a ceramic coating company, so I can get the materials for nothing and protect it.

Here is how the tower rust repair turned out, I think it came out pretty good for my first time doing any welding or body work.


The seam sealer went on after primer, so it looks a little different now. Excited to get back at it, hopefully the updates are quicker.

Keep it going man.

arrowhead said:

Keep it going man.

Click to expand...

Hey buddy I lost your number, text me again. I have been doing a lot of fiberglass and gelcoat repair repair on boats down here. I am going to start dong body panels on the car as soon as I slow down a little. Corona had everyone wanting there stuff fixed so I have been going 16 hours a day 7 days a week for the last 2 months. I’m talking to the ceramic company I’m partnered with about a possible sponsorship. We will see if it pans out. If so, this thing is going to be a monster

Great job on the rust repair. Keep up the good work.

Life had my project on hold for while now, but starting back up. Haven’t done anything yet, but I did spend $300 on some parts. I like complicated things.

Got the HY35 for $100 and the HX55 for $200, both are in excellent shape. Hopefully the neighbors don’t call the police when I’m in my shop yelling and throwing things trying to figure out how to get these things woking right. More to come..oh and I decided to make all carbon fiber or fiberglass body panels, so she should be pretty light with about 800whp? I’m thinking.