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I forgot to add a few pics up from last years item i got just before winter,

One item i dont have in hands currently is my spare Auto trans. It currently sits with my friend in Ohio, I bought this as an item to rebuild to its highest potential with mostly all parts upgraded and new. So my plans are to make it as strong and less chances to slip when racing,

With that i have currently a Red alto eagle upgraded full rebuild kit. The diff will likely be a wavetrac if i can find one when ever i get done saving for it, i opted for this over everything else as they have great reviews in the racing groups and i dont want the hastle of clutches.
I will grab the kiggly saddle billet mount just as a precaution and strength and i have a translab shift kit to install, (2 infact for my old trans rebuild)

Another item thats next on my list is a new fuel tank to make, for this i nearly got a magnus cam driven pump but opted to save some money and just get 2 inlines instead. I got 2 because 1 is going from the tank to my surge/swirl pot and then from there to the rail, both are the 350IL versions as they was having a deal it was just easier to get both the same.

From a previous post i showed that im going to ditch the stock waterpump in favor of an electronic unit from Davis Craig, so with this i got Frontline blockoffs and had these made sometime end of summer 2018. The idea is to make a swirl pot off the old thermo housing side, most of the things like caps and necks i have had since summer aswel but just never got these items to get started so this is once of my next projects alongside my new radiator and coolers im going to self build. So we shall see if i get these done by this summer.

Some other bits and bobs i have dotted around but not got pics of them but shall add them when i get a chance to go snap some up.

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Did a thing to the car! Finally LOL, it certainly has been a while thats for sure. I only ever seem to collect parts or build and make things and not install anything!

Well this time i wanted to rebuild something so figured why not do the suspension since i have been wanting to do this for the past year anyway,

So what i did was install a new rear shock to cope with the new spring rate and i opted to add helper springs this time since i now set the coilovers up in the correct manner for ride height and shock travel (write up to follow for those interested)

In doing this i am able to use more shock length and keep more contact on the road in corners when the body has some roll, this helps avoid the jacking effect of the wheel mainly rear for us, (not that i had any) but its best to combat something now then later, since i am rebuilding its just easy.

Just afew pics as i was ment to do some videos of this but i started snd just got carried away with it all.

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Another item on my list to adjust when i redid the shocks and new springs was rechecking and adjusting the rear bump/toe.

I originally set it up so i could get the toe in on compression and toe out on rebound and this ment it would steer into the corner, while it worked it was a bit much and as it started ok and then back end slipped out from excess toe, its always fun messing around and trying new adjustments but i wanted to dial it out some.

So what i opted to do was bring both toe in and out down but keep it in the same manner so it would toe in on compression and out on rebound and i have not driven on it alot since, i did a small drive around on some highways and it felt good with zero feel of the back end wanting to break loose.

I finally setup on
50 thou toe in at 1" on comp
30 thou toe out on 1" of rebound

I still have arm movement to bring it down even more to Zero toe but for now shall see what this does and holds when i drive it afew more times in the coming weeks,

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Over the past week i have been getting into tow hooks and mountings, in the UK we are required to have a proper tow solution before being allowed on tracks, they want it a certain height and visable, MSA/FIA rules are quite strict on some (all) things really so i had to come up with a good way for mounting them and be as strong as possible.

They are somewhat basic in design but then they dont need to be anything excentric to work well,
All the tubes are 2mm walled and all work with the oem crash bar (if used) currently i dont run the rear bar and dont actually need this rear setup as i already have a setup back there for my wing mount and shall attach my wire tow strap to the side of that existing mounting.

The front is modular in the sense that it works with the oem crash bar and then if that crash bar is never needed anymore i can bolt in place a bracket that holds the bumper up (similer to boosted fab brackets) but mine has a wider use and strength for the tow strap.

They all mount into the chassis rails and is the best ideal way to mount a tow. The rails are strong enough to take all this, all mounted with M12 12.9 grade socket cap bolts and have adjustments to allow everything to line up as needed. The tow straps have an inner loop and one of the m12 bolts pass through this to secure it in place.

I have opted to run 2 on the front and i may do 2 on the rear aswel but only bought 1 rear for the time being.

All i have to do is make some openings in the bumper cover and crash bar to allow it to sit through.

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This weekend was a nice one, i managed to prep for my new fuel tank i am building, i got the main shape sorted and i have to order a bunch of fittings to weld on etc, i also have to look at making some special items since i dont like some that are out there and some i do are only available in the US! (Typical) we never have anything good here in the UK LOL,

Spent some time getting the tow wires on and mounted, this is a huge step as it means im very very close to being on track now, ideally i am allowed on now! But i want to get the kill switch pull and fire extinguisher pull all sorted then i will go do some testing but on road tires,

I have to finish off the wider fenders front and rear before i can use my race wheels and tires so they cover the tire more, mainly for safety reasons,

Progress is good and steady so thats good, i feel like i am finally getting somewhere!

Also a better pic of my cooler ducts since i never took a great snap of them.

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What a day! Amazing day infact! I have been working lots in the back ground to get so much done and today i finally did it!!!!!! I now am safety compliant for MSA/FIA regs for the series! YAY and a huge sigh of relief as i have tried so hard to get this all done and its never gone to plan with other commitments etc,

But today i finished the safety side of things,

I fully wired all my pull cords in and installed to be 100% functional,
The fire extinguisher is now back in and active and actually plumbed in and useable!!! Now this year was different as we now have to use FIA regulations for the fire extinguisher which means 4 nozzles in the bay and 2 on the person (driver) was fiddly to do but i got there, I took a video and shall upload it in a bit to youtube then here, (edit) video

Also got my bracket installed which houses some parts of the kill system/fire and also rear Tilton Prop adjuster ready for my dual master pedals.

Enjoy these as i am as today was a huge tick off my list! Still lots to do but nothing is now vital to pass tech as its all done, woop woop.

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Got some more work done on the fuel tank after work, i managed to cut all the foam into size and install it all including the new Holley Hydramat all bolted up, next is to get my poly windows made so i can install it all.

Another thing i got done and this one i painted myself is the new rear subframe which is now my T45 version! This was something i wanted to do for a while just to use T45, it feels so light to hold. Went with a similer red as before and this one will use an evo anti roll bar as currently am just playing around with different sway bars and their effects it has.

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Never got around to posting pics of the frame work for the fuel tank so yesterday i put it all together ready for my AN fittings to arrive as i want to get the main part pre made to limit downtime once i i stall this and the wiring. It uses the 2 front tank studs and 2 holes in the rails by the back and i made some slip in threaded bushes i will weld into the rail.

All the pumps and swirl pot is kept low and offcenter to the driver to balance as much as i can and keep the weight low. This tanks drops just over 6kg off from the oem unit so its still a good weight saving.

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I decided to bolt the tank back in and the old subframe to get all the AN fittings all made and so i get it all correct now. Im now going to start working on the wiring part of these 2 pumps and have it all in stock now so i can do the main bulk of it. I have to make brackets etc so thats on my job sheet next for this,

The windows are now in progress to being made from hardcoat polycarbonate but wont be done for a few weeks at least and I am trying hard to get to Snetterton Time Attack in Nov 2nd so i may not have this all in till after that date. At least i will have all winter to do this and also the brakes etc.

Some pics of the current status of the tank.

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Did a small video and trying to do more then just typing and photos, I will get better st talking and such so bare with me

 
Well this was an item or rather project I was wanting to do for many years and i guess i just kept getting side tracked but i had some other items to mess around with and made some time to complete this task in hand FINALLY!!! i still have to finish welding it then get it powder coated.

I have the tanabe now but always wanted a 4 point option and the ralliart version looked good but not as strong as i wanted so would of needed to be modified anyhow. So this will be super duper stronger then that and just the normal tanabe alone and tie all 4 points and cross bracing the loading for the lower arm while cornering.

Im actually happy i got this done and shall do the job well while i still use the oem subframe till i can finish off my tubular one that i am still working on.

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Nooice! Now that's a legit under brace! :hellyeah:
It certainly is a much beefier and strong brace thats for sure. Im annoyed i delayed this for so long LOL
 
Nicely done! We enjoy watching your innovation to improve DSMs. Thank you for breaking into new territory and sharing it to inspire us.
 
Nicely done! We enjoy watching your innovation to improve DSMs. Thank you for breaking into new territory and sharing it to inspire us.
Thank you, i like sharing what i do and as you well know i really love to explore outside of the box wayyyy outside of it
 
With the car being down for a bit for some fitment / testing of my subframe for each version done for clearances etc i decided to rebuild a few drivetrain items, mainly because i had to anyway on the axles since I split an inner cv boot. I had a big task on this as the oem boots now are not sold anymore so i had issues, we dont exactly stock any other Eclipse parts in the UK since it was never sold here so im out of luck on most things.
So me being me i took the old ones off and measured for specs and then got to work finding what would and would not work. 45 part numbers later and 5 versions ordered i found the right ones that work and seal nicely and they are also from another mitsubishi so now i know what ones to stock up on in the future.

While i was doing the cv boots i completely de greased them all and installed some new and better grease designed for motorsport and its heat/loads. Another small touch thats not seen but critical part of making things last longer.

Another item I wanted to redo for a while now is the wheel bearings. I wanted to strip them down and re pack them with proper motorsport designed grease to hold up to higher temps and loads seen in bearings, there is a write up on this in the srticle section if you so wish to see it and have ago yourself.

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badass fuel cell and other fab work!
Thanks dude, much appriciated!!! Im just trying to do what I can and learn alot along the way. Its all fun even if it does make my brain hurt with figuring stuff out LOL
 
Thanks dude, much appriciated!!! Im just trying to do what I can and learn alot along the way. Its all fun even if it does make my brain hurt with figuring stuff out LOL

totally understand. my brain was fried planning out the LS swap by building a custom front subframe and control arms and making changes when things didn't work 100% as planned.
 
totally understand. my brain was fried planning out the LS swap by building a custom front subframe and control arms and making changes when things didn't work 100% as planned.
It can certainly be a right mind boggling battle, but if we stick with it 9/10 times it all comes to plan, just takes time and dedication
 
Just wanted to post up some brake goodness! Not long till i can get these all on now, (calipers are already on the chassis) oh yeah. Still shocked these are bigger and still lighter!

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Started to get the car back together but ran out of time and light was becoming an issue so i got somewhat far on it but still another day at least to finish it up and add fluids and bleed etc etc.

I managed to get the oem frame back on along with the rack and arb, driveshafts and exhaust and the knuckles/brakes.

Made some new shock inserts as the normal ones kept moving the shock alot and started to deform the alloy so i made some new ones to limit this movement and keep the shock more straight also now it wont move so much it wont deform the alloy spacers.
I have to go back and modify a nut for pauls arms as i didnt make it as deep as i should have. (Im now going to use a nyloc nut because im fed up of the castle nut coming loose all the time) i barely drive this car and every few months the nut manages to come loose even with the cotter pin so ditched that and going to do the way the oem arms are as it works well, I need to check something else aswel while i am doing the nut again.

Brakes are now on and ready to be bled, these things are huge on the car and the calipers are so damn wide its unreal and hsrd to believe!

I also finished up by putting on my new 4 point brace as i have to take it off to do some bits still but opted to put it on for show and to take pics really.

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