Is it common to use a 2G CAS on a 1G 6 bolt (90 TSI)? When ordering the Haltech 4G63 terminated harness they can custom fab it for a 2G CAS for a 1G engine.
Has anyone installed the Kiggly Racing CKP kit for a 1G using the Haltech terminated harness with the Elite 1500, is there anything in particular to note for the wiring?

I have not used that specific harness but the wiring is very straight forward. 12v, ground, then signal goes to the crank signal pin. Normally, crank signal would come from cas.

Not much help because I did a 12 tooth on my evo but it would be the exact sensor/trigger setup you describe. The 2g/evo cam sensors are so much cheaper than a 1g cas should it go bad.

Changing to a different trigger setup will require adjustments to the trigger page on the ESP. tooth count for home/crank and offset angles may need changed.

The 2g sensors are more accurate than a 1g cas.... they can also accurately account for deck height differences, I know someone is going to say this is a **** hair of a degree difference, but it doesn't matter when you're building "race cars". That little degree of difference matters and is why Mitsubishi UPDATED to 2 sensors in the later models rather than getting the cam and crank signals from one sensor (the 1g CAS).

bling5tatus said:

The 2g sensors are more accurate than a 1g cas.... they can also accurately account for deck height differences, I know someone is going to say this is a **** hair of a degree difference, but it doesn't matter when you're building "race cars". That little degree of difference matters and is why Mitsubishi UPDATED to 2 sensors in the later models rather than getting the cam and crank signals from one sensor (the 1g CAS).

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Actually the reason that Mitsubishi separated the cam and crank sensors on the 2g cars was to comply with obd2 standards that were coming into play in 1996, part of the obd2 standards is that a cars ecu must be able to detect a misfire and having both in the same unit wont allow the ecu to do that. The sensors are for the most part the same sensors, they just are mounted in different parts of the engine.

bling5tatus said:

The 2g sensors are more accurate than a 1g cas.... they can also accurately account for deck height differences, I know someone is going to say this is a **** hair of a degree difference, but it doesn't matter when you're building "race cars". That little degree of difference matters and is why Mitsubishi UPDATED to 2 sensors in the later models rather than getting the cam and crank signals from one sensor (the 1g CAS).

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That’s exactly what my tuner told me on my race car i run kiggly 12 tooth with 2g 99 CAS on my aem infinity.

motomattx said:

Actually the reason that Mitsubishi separated the cam and crank sensors on the 2g cars was to comply with obd2 standards that were coming into play in 1996, part of the obd2 standards is that a cars ecu must be able to detect a misfire and having both in the same unit wont allow the ecu to do that. The sensors are for the most part the same sensors, they just are mounted in different parts of the engine.

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That is likely true, with the added benefit of having a more accurate engine position reading system. The stock 1g cannot detect random misfires like the 2g 2 sensor setup can..... and, as I said, it cannot account for deck height differences if you mill your head/block. It's probably also better for people using 2.4L blocks w/ the galant cam gears too.

Anyway, I haven't done it yet on any of my cars, but I will switch to this type of setup when I put a haltech on my car at some point soon.

edit: it's almost like, as time goes on, people are starting to realize that the 2g setup is better than the 6 bolt setup. I think the ONLY reason people like the 6 bolt setup is because of the heavier duty rods/pistons/crank. All of this can be remedied in a 2g engine with aftermarket parts. I think the gig is up on 6 bolt stuff tbh. They're not available very easily anymore and the ones that are people treat like they're made out of gold and glued together with unicorn jizz.

No oil with a heavy clutch during startup and your foot on that heavy clutch = crank thrust surface wear.
Built 2 6 bolts side by side. The one from the auto car had virtually NO thrust wear, the one from a street car with just a ACT 2600 had significantly more wear but still within operating limits. Was nice to see the auto cars crank was so tight. .0025 on the auto crank, .005 on the stick shift crank.
My observations.

trying to get a Haltech Elite 1500 set up . I am using the Mitsubishi 4g63 Evolution I base map for a 1992 Gallant VR4 4g63T. Why does it list the sensor as being on the crank with 60 teeth 2 missing ? The sensor is on the cam with a long and short pulse . Also when setting base timing, I have to set TDC offset angle to 255 (180 out from the 435 recommended)
Any Knowledge you can share would be helpful
Thanks in advance

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