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Winter Storage without Oil or Coolant?

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Sandica

Proven Member
30
3
May 28, 2019
Sandgate, Vermont
Hi Guys,

I currently have a 97 GSX with a rusted out chassis. This past summer I began the process of breaking it down and salvaging what I could from it. I didn't get as far as I would have liked this past summer and plan to pick up where I left off next Summer, ultimately taking the motor out.

Before the cold weather hit, I had removed the radiator and drained the oil and coolant, so it is now sitting without either in it.

My question is, is it ok for the car to sit without any oil or coolant in it for the next 4 winter months? And if not, what can I do to fix this situation as the car is not currently running so even if I put the radiator back in and added coolant, I wouldn't be able to circulate it through the engine.

Thank you for any and all help.
 
Engine coolant has additives that prevent corrosion of your engine block. Leaving it empty will allow moist air to get into the block and it may start rusting pretty quickly. If it was my car, I would put coolant back in...

Same kinda goes for the oil, although I dont feel as strongly about it being important...
 
Agree with @rabenne. Put SOMETHING in it, even old oil is better than none so it doesn't get any rust. Coolant, if you didn't pull and block plugs, should still have SOME coolant in the block unless you turned it upside down and completely drained it.
 
Good point Marty, gravity doesn't drain it all in its normal orientation - regardless. I would want it full and devoid of air bubbles... Is there a reason you cant fill it back up? If you fill it, then use a cooling system pressure tester to pressurize the system, the air bubbles usually work themselves out... I do this when filling an empty block to help the effort in bleeding the air back out.
 
Ok, I put the radiator back in and re-connected oil and coolant lines to turbo. Going to put antifreeze back in, along with oil. Motor is still in the car, and plugs are still in motor, so no I didn’t tip it upside down and drain It completely, haha.

I always ran synthetic oil through this car, but would it be ok to just put in normal oil back in now as I’m just trying to store it safely for the winter? This car hasn’t been run in years and won’t be run in it’s current state with conventional oil in it. I’m really just trying to save the motor and store it safely for winter so I can resume pulling it next summer.
 
Yeah that'll be just fine. It wont care, it will be glad you put some lubricant in it even if its old oil. Its not going to turn over or circulate the oil and you're gonna drain it back out anyway.
 
Yeah that'll be just fine. It wont care, it will be glad you put some lubricant in it even if its old oil. Its not going to turn over or circulate the oil and you're gonna drain it back out anyway.
Ok, will do. You always help me out when I do something stupid - Thank You!

Thanks to everyone else too!
 
Filling the engine up with oil before storing is only going to protect the pan itself, no? I mean just putting it in and letting it drain to the sump without running the engine isn't going to coat the cylinder walls, cams and other stuff I'd expect to see rust/corrosion on with oil.
 
Agreed, which is why I think it's less important than the coolant. Oil clings to surfaces for while, that's why you can park a car all winter and crank it up fine in the spring. It would be best to circulate oil, but if you can't, it is pretty much just protecting the pan.

You could oil the cylinder walls but it's probably not necessary. I dont know*
 
Ok, I threw in the oil just to be safe.

I also put in a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/coolant. However, it only took a little over a gallon (As I'm sure you guys know, it's supposed to take closer to 2 gallons). As stated before, I can't start the car to circulate the coolant. I'm assuming the car would take the other gallon if I were able to start it and cause the thermostat to open; is this the case?

I don't have a pressure tester to force the air bubbles out of the coolant system, but will pick one up ASAP.

With all that being said, have I done everything I can, given the fact that I can't start the car and it won't take more than a gallon?
 
I wold put several gallons of oil in it to bring it above the crankshaft oil level wise, used oil even would work, this will keep the rust from getting on a lot of things, then pull the spark plugs and use fogging oil in the cylinders, and then some assembly lube (liquid type) on the camshafts after pulling the valve cover to coat them.
 
Thanks for the tip on the extra oil, seems like very good advice.

Is there anything more I can do to get the proper amount of coolant into the system for the upcoming winter months, given my current situation? I’m just concerned that the block doesn’t have enough coolant in it to keep from cracking.
 
I would think I was good after doing the things mentioned. Hell, I have a 4g that sat for 10 years at 100k. I did a timing job on it and it turns over great, granted it had oil and coolant still in it but I would bet anything it will fire up and be fine, so I think for 4 months, your good! :thumb:
 
Ok guys, I borrowed a coolant system pressure tester to remove any air bubbles from my coolant system. The tool seems obvious enough, and I see how it would reveal any leaks when used. Also I researched how to use it, but it was as I thought.

However, excuse my ignorance, how will I use this to force air out of the closed cooling system? As in, where will the air pockets go (if even present?). Will the air be forced into the coolant overflow tank and thus, replaced with coolant from that tank through the pressure of displacement?

Thanks for the help guys
 
No the air will be present at the tstat housing after you remove the tester. Fill it, pump it up, fill it again. Repeat until the level doesn't drop. It's not a flawless plan but it has worked well for me in the past
 
Also, jack up the front of the car and leave the coolant cap off for a few days, the air will let itself out after rising to the highest point.
 
Ok, I hooked up the pressure tester and applied pressure to the coolant system. After replacing about 5 hose clamps I was able to get the pressure tester to hold 23 PSI (as stated in the FSM).

However, upon releasing the pressure and removing the tool, the coolant is still sitting at the level it was at before I applied the pressure. The tool didn’t force any air out, thus not leaving room for me to add more coolant.

All in all, I was able to get a little more than a gallon of antifreeze/coolant in the system (including the overflow tank).

I should note, the car is parked on a slight incline (not much of one, but enough to make working on it a PITA). Also, I left the radiator cap off for the time being to see if any air will escape on it’s own.

Is it possible the air is out and the coolant system just won’t take anymore coolant? Could the other gallon of old coolant have just not drained completely before and be sitting elsewhere in the system (also some in the block, I know)?
 
Based on your result, there likely isn't much, if any, air left in the system. When you open the radiator drain it doesn't all come out. I would expect more than a gallon, but perhaps not much more...

I think you can confidently store it now. Please post if leaving the cap off helps!
 
Based on your result, there likely isn't much, if any, air left in the system. When you open the radiator drain it doesn't all come out. I would expect more than a gallon, but perhaps not much more...

I think you can confidently store it now. Please post if leaving the cap off helps!

Ok, I’ll post if leaving the cap off helps, I’ll give it a couple days.

Thank you again for the help with all this.
 
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