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2G Car keeps shutting off in neutral, completely died driving

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ItsCuzImmaTURK

Proven Member
32
2
Nov 18, 2019
Rochester, New_York
Hey guys, so i got my 97 gsx recently, it had an alternator problem, got it tested and failed so i threw a new one on, car drove fine for about 12 miles,(did a 3rd gear pull to 6k rpm) and kinda just shut off on me and wouldnt turn back over, i checked the hoses/loose cables i couldnt find anything, and it started up again about an hour later, and drove it about a mile and died on me again, and now just keeps cranking, but wont turn over, think it could be a plug/coil/spark issue?

maybe a faulty alternator i got from autozone? Battery tested good as well
 

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By crank i mean it keeps cranking like it wants to start, by not turn over i mean actually turn on and running
 
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Also, forgot to add, i noticed it dies if i put it in neutral between shifts as well if i hold it for rpms to drop
 
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Okay, you have some homework to do:

1) Boost leak check - google it, understand it - you need to do this on your car before asking more advice.
2) Datalogging - ECMlink, SAFC - google them, pick one and buy it. Then set it up for use on your car.
3) Once you have the capability to talk to the ECU, you will have a whole new list of things to do.
 
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How was it idling before? High, low, fluctuating, normal? Check the wires and connectors on the thermostat housing. Also check the nut on the alternator make sure the power cable is tight, and check the cables and terminals on the battery.
 
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rabenne said:
Okay, you have some homework to do:

1) Boost leak check - google it, understand it - you need to do this on your car before asking more advice.
2) Datalogging - ECMlink, SAFC - google them, pick one and buy it. Then set it up for use on your car.
3) Once you have the capability to talk to the ECU, you will have a whole new list of things to do.
Click to expand...

Checked all piping/vacuum lines everything's connected didn't see cracks, gonna eventually invest into one of those once i get my racecar parts

tk106 said:
How was it idling before? High, low, fluctuating, normal? Check the wires and connectors on the thermostat housing. Also check the nut on the alternator make sure the power cable is tight, and check the cables and terminals on the battery.
Click to expand...

Car seemed to idle normal, around 7-900 rpm, and gonna see where the connectors are for the thermostat, and checked wiring looked normal

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Uhh im not sure if i do, the battery tested good at autozone, fully charged, even with jumper cables it wouldnt turn on, just keeps cranking
 
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That car sounds horrible, I'm thinking its jumped time by the sound of it, you need to do a compression test to find out why its turning over so slowly.
 
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Kai Hefner said:
I'm guessing a short somewhere OR your battery is fooked in some way and making the car act all weird. I've seen some weird stuff with a bad battery. Do you have a spare you could try?
Click to expand...

Its slow cranking because the battery drained down from me trying to start it so much

tk106 said:
+1 on checking timing. That doesn’t sound right. Idle should be steady +\- 50, not 200
Click to expand...

Idle was steady, randomly happened out of no where
 
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ItsCuzImmaTURK said:
If i unplug the maf and it starts up does that mean its a bad maf?
Click to expand...

I'd imagine so. Just noticed your rpm gauge jumping around so there might be an electrical issue.

Was it running before you bought it, and then you threw an alternator in it?
 
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tk106 said:
Was it running before you bought it, and then you threw an alternator in it?
Click to expand...
It was running fine, i just noticed in between shifts if i held the clutch in it would die, then as i was driving it shut off Completely and i had to pull over, started up again about an hour later, then shut off again about 2 miles later
 
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tk106 said:
Wonder if you have a bad alternator. Do you have a voltmeter to check without pulling it out?
Click to expand...
Im sure i can find one, it did have a bad alternator, i replaced it with one i got from autozone, it was remanufactured so idk if its bad also, but even with cables on the car it wont turn on, just keeps cranking
 
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ItsCuzImmaTURK said:
Im sure i can find one, it did have a bad alternator, i replaced it with one i got from autozone, it was remanufactured so idk if its bad also, but even with cables on the car it wont turn on, just keeps cranking
Click to expand...

I'd start with spark and fuel first then. Also check compression and timing marks. Heard bad things about alternators from parts stores. I went with a bosch, lifetime warranty and haven't had a issue but your issue now doesn't sound like an alternator then.
 
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Figured out my problem, some clip is broken and was loose, ziptied it down, now it runs, but still stalls whenever i hold the clutch in, think i might have a bad maf, since i got this code
P0100 and p1500
 
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ItsCuzImmaTURK said:
Figured out my problem, some clip is broken and was loose, ziptied it down, now it runs, but still stalls whenever i hold the clutch in, think i might have a bad maf, since i got this code
P0100 and p1500
Click to expand...

Good find! So the no start was from a loose/broken connector? Which one?
 
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tk106 said:
Good find! So the no start was from a loose/broken connector? Which one?
Click to expand...
Im not sure what its called but it looks like something for the fuel rail
 

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