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At this point I have a few parts and materials laying around waiting to be used. I might get some work done tonight and tomorrow night.

Parts include:
- camshaft position sensor
- crank angle sensor
- MAP sensor
- manifold air charge temperature sensor (IAT)
- Castrol Edge Gold engine oil
- K&N Gold oil filter
- fuel system treatment
- new cone air filter

And as of last Saturday, my DSM has outlived my brother's '99 Subaru and '08 Honda. Happy and sad about this LOL
 
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Man, you have made a ton of progress on your car and it looks amazing. Your attention to detail, and frankly your entire build, is inspirational to me. It is exciting to see someone as passionate about their 420A Eclipse as I am. Our builds may be in different directions, but the genuine joy of owning one of these cars seems to be much the same. Keep up the great work!
 
Man, you have made a ton of progress on your car and it looks amazing. Your attention to detail, and frankly your entire build, is inspirational to me. It is exciting to see someone as passionate about their 420A Eclipse as I am. Our builds may be in different directions, but the genuine joy of owning one of these cars seems to be much the same. Keep up the great work!
If I can find a lower mileage car then I will restore it. But this one has been abused over the years, and I figured what the heck lets make it fast and custom. I've done well on the custom part, but still working on the fast part LOL. You're absolutely right though. I'm attached to these things now.

I have a feeling I will stick with these cars for the rest of my life.
 
So tonight I replaced the oil pan gasket, MAP sensor, CAS, and camshaft position sensor. The oil pan leaked before, but now it is sealed properly. Some new oil and a new oil filter to top it off.

When I had the oil pan off I happily noticed that my pistons and rods are visually clean.

On a side note I also replaced the wiper blades with Michelin, since my old ones are falling apart. I've tried other brands like Trico and they suck.

Late 2023, almost 2024 update: Michelin blades are still on the car today. It's garage kept and rarely rain driven now, but 4 years is the longest I have ever kept a set of blades on a car. Very impressed with the Michelins. The first set of Trico blades on this car were done in 6 months.

20191104_192426.jpg
20191104_164625.jpg
 
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I have a feeling I will stick with these cars for the rest of my life.

Haha same here.

I hear you on the condition too, but to be honest, personally, I'm glad that I don't have a gem mint collectors item-- I wouldn't want to drive it and I would be too afraid of "ruining" it to really enjoy it.. I realize that everybody is different, but that's just not for me. I've always found the pursuit of perfection to be a stressful thing, but the pursuit of excellence-- well that can be alot of fun. :)

Your car is awesome man. Keep enjoying the journey, and keep up the great work! :)
 
Haha same here.

I hear you on the condition too, but to be honest, personally, I'm glad that I don't have a gem mint collectors item-- I wouldn't want to drive it and I would be too afraid of "ruining" it to really enjoy it.. I realize that everybody is different, but that's just not for me. I've always found the pursuit of perfection to be a stressful thing, but the pursuit of excellence-- well that can be alot of fun. :)

Your car is awesome man. Keep enjoying the journey, and keep up the great work! :)
Also, if the car was in perfect condition you wouldn't get the fun of working on it!
 
Even if the car is in perfect conditions we always look for something to work in it, upgrading something or just cleaning stuff.
Believe it or not when I got my car to be reliable, I used to take off the complete motor and transmission just to clean up the engine,
replace gaskets and seals when I see not a leak, but a wetness spot .

I do remember when I first got my DSM and spend a lot of money on EBAY PARTS ☹️, It broke so many times and I was always working on it (I enjoyed a lot), once I fix it I take it for a spin and come back on a tow truck.


D0C3DB46-60EB-430F-8553-0BAB8624CD3C.jpeg


This pic is one of the many times I came back home for the second time in the same day on a tow truck after fixing it.

I loved those moments.
 
Have you decided what gauges you are going to run? AFR, oil pressure?
Oil pressure, afr, and amps from the alternator.

I did not replace the oil pump or the alternator so I need to keep an eye on those. And I think I'm running dangerously lean.
 
+1 on wideband. Will go a long way whatever direction you take with the build.

Also recommend a voltage gauge instead of amps. I didn’t even know they sell amp gauges but I think voltage tells you more.
 
Depending on the brand gauge you are going with, it might be cheaper to just replace the alternator than invest in a voltage gauge. Besides a water temp gauge would be more useful in my opinion since the gauge cluster temp is more of an idiot light with an arbitrary scale.

Oil pressure is nice to have to keep an eye on. Wide band AFR is definetly a need. Summit racing has a nice tap in strap so you don’t need to get a fitting welded in... though it would be more ideal to weld a fitting in. Since you are still running the stock ecu, you will need to leave the stock sensor in place (unless the stock ECU can read the narrow band signal out of the AFR gauge). I can’t remember if it will or not. It’s been years since I completely removed the stock ecu.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIrKyvu-7u5QIVBpyzCh1ofQe7EAQYAiABEgIs4_D_BwE
 
Depending on the brand gauge you are going with, it might be cheaper to just replace the alternator than invest in a voltage gauge. Besides a water temp gauge would be more useful in my opinion since the gauge cluster temp is more of an idiot light with an arbitrary scale.

Oil pressure is nice to have to keep an eye on. Wide band AFR is definetly a need. Summit racing has a nice tap in strap so you don’t need to get a fitting welded in... though it would be more ideal to weld a fitting in. Since you are still running the stock ecu, you will need to leave the stock sensor in place (unless the stock ECU can read the narrow band signal out of the AFR gauge). I can’t remember if it will or not. It’s been years since I completely removed the stock ecu.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIrKyvu-7u5QIVBpyzCh1ofQe7EAQYAiABEgIs4_D_BwE
Thank you for the info.

I'm still awaiting tracking info for the cluster, I have a feeling it will be at least a week before I have my hands on it... But that's ok, I can use this time to find some gauges.
 
I'm trying to decide whether or not to drop my trans yet. I think I'll wait until it's a necessity, like when it breaks as I'm driving LOL. As much as I'd like to spend a bunch of money and put many hours of work into it, I think it's best to wait. When I do it though I want to go with a stage 1 or 2 clutch kit so it can handle the slight amount of power I'll be adding. While I'm at it I'll go with all new synchronizers as well.

The 3 gauge cluster should be here tomorrow. Bosch has some 52mm gauges on sale so I think I'm going with those.

Within the next month or two I'll be picking up my GoPro and my Yonaka catback system. I think I need a new IAC also because I'm having some slight idle issues. I'll be sure to keep this updated as I figure things out.
 
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Sol,

I would wait until the trans has issues, buddy. Its a lot of work to go through... Plus, if you spend a lot of money on that rebuild and then find "the deal of a lifetime" on a AWD, you might kick yourself.

On the other hand, it would be a learning experience, and you would undoubtedly learn a lot.

Whatever you decide, I will be following along!
 
My personal opinion. Do not rebuild the trans until you have to. These are my reasons. The stock trans uses a steel synchro with a bonded fiber material. This is why it takes a special fluid to not damage this fiber synchro. If you buy a standard aftermarket rebuild kit, it will come with brass synchros. These are noisy when cold, it will sound like a bunch of rocks in your trans, but they do work. Last trans I rebuilt I measured all of the synchros I had and used my best 5 in order to put stock synchros back in. The trans had been rebuilt before and had a brass 2nd synchro.

Last time I checked, you can still get 3rd, 4th, and 5th from mitsu. But 1st and 2nd are no longer available. So keep rocking it until you need to have it rebuilt and then do so.
 
My personal opinion. Do not rebuild the trans until you have to. These are my reasons. The stock trans uses a steel synchro with a bonded fiber material. This is why it takes a special fluid to not damage this fiber synchro. If you buy a standard aftermarket rebuild kit, it will come with brass synchros. These are noisy when cold, it will sound like a bunch of rocks in your trans, but they do work. Last trans I rebuilt I measured all of the synchros I had and used my best 5 in order to put stock synchros back in. The trans had been rebuilt before and had a brass 2nd synchro.

Last time I checked, you can still get 3rd, 4th, and 5th from mitsu. But 1st and 2nd are no longer available. So keep rocking it until you need to have it rebuilt and then do so.
It sucks how they don't sell the 1st and 2nd one. That's literally the only one I need. I guess I'll just leave it in till I blow it. Thanks for the info.
 
It actually saved me one time this summer. Was stopped in traffic on a super hot day and I saw the gauge read 11 volts. My harmonic balancer came apart. This was a mile before jumping on the highway.
 
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