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Clutch bleeding problems

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Darin Shaw

Probationary Member
3
0
Nov 18, 2019
Brewster, Ohio
My buddy has a 01 Chevy Silverado 1500 4.3l 5sp. After owning it for a month or so the clutch went out or so they thought. A certified diesel mechanic said he needed a new master cylinder when the problem was fluid leaking where the line comes out of the master cylinder.
They purchased a new master put it in but didnt hook anything up. Another certified diesel mechanic pulled the new master out and tore it apart saying it needed rebuilt. Put it back together so on and so forth. I have rebuilt it 6 times now everything seems to be working.
When I bleed and prime the master no matter how many time I do it it still pushes air thru the lines. Never stops. Hook everything back up and it will build pressure to an extent then act like there is air in it and go back to a spongy pedal any suggestions? They also spiced the line from high pressure rubber to steel line back to rubber with compression fittings. Any tips would be useful. Last thing I have to try is running full steel line from master to slave.
 
Darin, you could get a -3an or -4an stainless braided line and go directly from the master to the clutch slave cylinder, compression fittings are NOT a good thing on hydraulic lines (especially BRAKE lines, your clutch is a lot like a brake system). It almost sounds like an internal leak in the master allowing air in. When they rebuild the master, do they hone the bore or just replace stuff like it will magically work?
Marty
 
The master was brand new didnt need anything to begin with but someone thought they knew what they were doing and tore it apart anyhow not knowing anything about them. When bleeding/ priming the master if you push the pedal very slowly it will push fluid with no air. But if you push the pedal down normal pace or what not you get an air pocket thru the line.
 
The master and the slave both where the line goes in are both a nipple like a brake bleeder nipple held in by a pin. Thats where the problem and everything started was started to leak around that nipple. He does not have a job at the moment So I have tried the next best thing which was to remove the nipple period. No matter was seal or o ring wr tried it always started leaking again so I jb welded a compression fitting inside the hole sealed great no leak. The braided line from the factory has a rubber line inside. No leaks are present in the steel lines just where they go to the rubber line on the compression fitting. Dont know whats going on. And lastly pulled the transmission today to check slave and clutch itself clutch is perfectly fine dont know how to check the slave but there was a ton of break fluid laying in the bottom of the ball housing. Dont know if the slave is leaking or if it is coming from when I crack the bleeder
 
A lot of miles on that vehicle? My 87 IROC has a hydraulic clutch and it sounds very much like yours with the pin, a PLASTIC line and an oring to hold it in the slave. I change these DSM cars over to a single braided line all the way from the master to the slave and when (an if) I get the IROC running again, I will see if I can retro it. It is on its 2nd set of masters and slaves, they only sold it all in a kit so I had to buy the whole thing.
 
Surfing the forums checking everything out and I stumbled across this. Its a true testament to how things are ran on here. No harsh comments, members even giving help, and saying he can stay!
Big props to black'98dsm And 1990tsiawdtalon.
 
We help everybody. Its about being a friendly group of people just trying to help each other out and always glad to have new members, always! :)
Marty
 
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