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1G Radiator Fan Question and Understanding

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Everybody needs to stop buying these cheap ass Ebay parts. They almost never work, and when they do they break soon. Since when did "tuning" become slapping the absolute cheapest parts on cars with a fart can and calling is fast and driving the shit out of it until it breaks?
 
Well at least one positive post. Like I said flame suit on. I have seen posts like these before and I know where they are headed.
What is there to flame you about? I purchased a thermo switch off Rockauto for a 1993 Eagle Talon AWD. I installed said switch in my thermostat housing for a more accurate reading of the engine's coolant temperature. My results were 195-200.
 
I have to confess. I just started working at Subaru dealership few moths ago and I will tell you that you are way off. Tunning is when you mash the go pedal while at stand still and shoot flames but you see, rarely flames go out....smoke from blown turbo or rod bearing yea sure but the face of the driver.....priceless. And when you ask anything, the answer is ....pause....it still has to get tuned. People believe that the tune is the key to success. When when you ask what the tuner actually does, or afr or peak timing they get lost. I feel that every young adult that has a fart can thinks he drives a race car. It's amazing how stupid some people are. And they think that they are master techs. The latest one ( I should of taken a picture) there was some sort of solenoid tee in the vac line for blow of valve. No one in shop could figure out what it was controlling.
 
What is there to flame you about? I purchased a thermo switch off Rockauto for a 1993 Eagle Talon AWD. I installed said switch in my thermostat housing for a more accurate reading of the engine's coolant temperature. My results were 195-200.
Because I am the only one that says it Is normal to be over 200 degrees. I have posted something similar before.
 
I have to confess. I just started working at Subaru dealership few moths ago and I will tell you that you are way off. Tunning is when you mash the go pedal while at stand still and shoot flames but you see, rarely flames go out....smoke from blown turbo or rod bearing yea sure but the face of the driver.....priceless. And when you ask anything, the answer is ....pause....it still has to get tuned. People believe that the tune is the key to success. When when you ask what the tuner actually does, or afr or peak timing they get lost. I feel that every young adult that has a fart can thinks he drives a race car. It's amazing how stupid some people are. And they think that they are master techs. The latest one ( I should of taken a picture) there was some sort of solenoid tee in the vac line for blow of valve. No one in shop could figure out what it was controlling.
Why'd you say I'm way off? You literally proved my point...
 
We had a wrx and a forester with with completely blown shaft in the turbo. Like take it out with fingers while it is still mounted in the car. I go....you going to replace it with " turbocharger brand" turbo....he goes yea it's an upgrade....I go...you want to pull this turbo again?
 
Because I am the only one that says it Is normal to be over 200 degrees. I have posted something similar before.
There's literally a guy on the first page of this 1.5 page thread that said it should come on at 206. I'm not sure why you're making this such a big deal.
 
There's literally a guy on the first page of this 1.5 page thread that said it should come on at 206. I'm not sure why you're making this such a big deal.

Well than it makes 2 people than. But there were many threads about this very issue and general rule is that it should come on at 190 because if does not the ecu pulls timing. Like I said I have see threads like these before. I have also seen how people try to modify a perfectly good working systems for the worst.
 
I can end this debate really fast, the factory service manual page 7-15 says and I quote:

Thermo Sensor Inspection: Check for continuity with the thermo sensor in hot water,.

Standard value:
Continuity at 180F-190F
No continuity at 172F or less

this tells us that the fans should be on at 180F-190F, not 200F, not 206F, not 210F not 220F etc etc, if anyone's is coming on above 190F or less than 180F its JUNK!
 
I don't know of a way to let Link control the Fans in a 1G. For my 91 there is a connector right next to where the lower radiator hose goes into the radiator. The passenger side fan has a plug in the loom that plugs into that and brings that fan on around 206 ( as shown in Link ). To get the driver side fan on I press the A/C button on ( I don't have A/C ).

I have to turn on the blower to get my drivers side to turn on. No ac either....But one day I will, one day!
 
I have to confess. I just started working at Subaru dealership few moths ago and I will tell you that you are way off. Tunning is when you mash the go pedal while at stand still and shoot flames but you see, rarely flames go out....smoke from blown turbo or rod bearing yea sure but the face of the driver.....priceless. And when you ask anything, the answer is ....pause....it still has to get tuned. People believe that the tune is the key to success. When when you ask what the tuner actually does, or afr or peak timing they get lost. I feel that every young adult that has a fart can thinks he drives a race car. It's amazing how stupid some people are. And they think that they are master techs. The latest one ( I should of taken a picture) there was some sort of solenoid tee in the vac line for blow of valve. No one in shop could figure out what it was controlling.

I was a service adviser from 21 to mid 30's. They really need to make a sitcom about car dealerships. The stuff that goes on is priceless and not to mention all the different characters in that field, good and bad.
 
I was a service adviser from 21 to mid 30's. They really need to make a sitcom about car dealerships. The stuff that goes on is priceless and not to mention all the different characters in that field, good and bad.
It's amazing, I tell you. It's my first time at the dealer and I am totally surprise how things operate.
 
I can end this debate really fast, the factory service manual page 7-15 says and I quote:

Thermo Sensor Inspection: Check for continuity with the thermo sensor in hot water,.

Standard value:
Continuity at 180F-190F
No continuity at 172F or less

this tells us that the fans should be on at 180F-190F, not 200F, not 206F, not 210F not 220F etc etc, if anyone's is coming on above 190F or less than 180F its JUNK!
I totally agree with you and thank you for posting that but where is the temp sensor is mounted that pcm uses? On the bottom of the radiator?
 
The bottom of the radiator is what turns the fans on in a 1g, the one the ecu uses for fueling/ignition tables is the two wire sensor on the thermostat housing, the single wire on the housing is for the factory temp gauge.
 
The bottom of the radiator is what turns the fans on in a 1g, the one the ecu uses for fueling/ignition tables is the two wire sensor on the thermostat housing, the single wire on the housing is for the factory temp gauge.
So is there a temperature difference between the two? I mean thermal switch and temp sensor.
 
Of course there is, one is a open/close switch and the other is a thermistor that changes resistance based on temp.
 
Of course there is, one is a open/close switch and the other is a thermistor that changes resistance based on temp.
You keep going the other way. What I am saying, is the temperature different from the bottom of the radiator and thermostat housing? Is the coolant hotter or colder?
 
You keep going the other way. What I am saying, is the temperature different from the bottom of the radiator and thermostat housing? Is the coolant hotter or colder?
Of course its going to be cooler by a few degrees after running through the radiator, the radiator is not there to drop the temperature by many degrees if thats the angle that your trying to get at, instead the radiators job is just to remove enough heat as to not allow the engine to overheat, a working cooling system in the 4g63 should not get above 205F or so if its working properly, that being said my modern Audi was set to run at 230F and at those temps a 4g63 would be junk, it depends on the materials used in the engine and the clearances in the engine as to what temperatures it can take safely, our engines cant handle those higher temperatures, ideally you would want around 195F on the 4g63.
 
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So if there is a difference then the coolant temp sensor will never show 190. That's what I am trying to say. It will always be hotter. Now mine could be off few degrees but not 20+. So from this we can conclude that normally coolant temp will be in 200+. Mine is at like 213. The other gentlemen it's at 206 when the fan comes on and the op has his come on at 219/220. Given some food for thought one can conclude that his temp is not way off. Their off but not by much. Now if we think the temp sensor should read 190 then he is off the charts overheating. That is all I am saying. And don't get me started on lower temp thermostats because thermostat has a lot to do with this. For op take something from this discussion. You should be in lower 200. Your aftermarket fans are most likely not good enough. Installed/repair thermistor and install Oem fans. Come back and post your results.
 
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