SlipknotSmoothi
10+ Year Contributor
- 93
- 63
- Feb 24, 2011
-
Fayetteville,
North_Carolina
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congrats on getting back at it
Please do, I didnt realize how that worked before and will keep doing what I did in my last post.Wow, that wiring is a major project. Soldering all the cut wires, right? With shrink tubing?
We need to edit your previous posts and set all your attachments to Full Size. I can do it for you if you need.
Thank you!Can I just say I like your writing?
Thanks, I'm never sure that I'm getting good angles and coverage, so I video when I'm working too. I've got days worth of video to match, but I havent done anything with them yet.Can I just say that I like your pictures? well I guess I am biased now that I noticed some that I hadn't seen before!
If you can replace full lengths of the wire and removing the spliced pieces altogether is the best option, but if you're addressing splices and don't need a connection, hooking and twisting the wires together and then soldering them is likely going to get you the best connection. At least that's what all of my electrical guru friends have always drilled into me over the years. I'll admit, wiring isn't my favorite of projects. But yes, if you need the ability to quickly disconnect, then quick connections are good too.For the wiring, I'm a bit picky. I'm not sure that I agree with soldering automotive wiring, though its a much better solution than what is usually done. The main concern with this is that solder joints do not hold up well to vibration over long term, you send up breaking the strands before the joint. This is mitigated if the wire is secured to a fixed part, like the chassis, though. My preference is actually to just reconstruct the harness, or sections. I'm a huge believer in quick connect things, and that is what I'll be doing with the long block. I want to be able to swap my 6bolt top/bottom/20g/GM-SD with my 6bolt bottom/7bolt top/hy35/aem-SD setups with only unplugging the harness in one/two locations and adjust link to match. It makes it SUPER simple when moving setups between the 1g and 2g this way. I've already had to do that once and I know I'll be doing it at least one more time. Just makes things easy, clean, and serviceable for a longer time.
If you can replace full lengths of the wire and removing the spliced pieces altogether is the best option, but if you're addressing splices and don't need a connection, hooking and twisting the wires together and then soldering them is likely going to get you the best connection. At least that's what all of my electrical guru friends have always drilled into me over the years. I'll admit, wiring isn't my favorite of projects. But yes, if you need the ability to quickly disconnect, then quick connections are good too.
I suppose everything can fail at some point, even if done right. Ideally, you'd replace the whole strand, but if that's not feasible... on a separate note, glad to see that old oil pick up being replaced.Soldering with the use of heat shrink will certainly provide the best connection for a splice, until it fails.
I did get it on video, about 90 minutes worth in total thus far. I'll probably add another 60 minutes to it this weekend, and then push it down to 10 minutes or so and post it up.I thought you got the carpet cleaning on video!
Making progress, keep it going.