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Need help dialing in setup/troubleshooting

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madmax4

10+ Year Contributor
50
16
Jun 21, 2011
hartford, Connecticut
Recently got the car back together and mobile, but im having trouble getting my baseline tune dialed in correctly using the basic info on the ecmlink wikki and from here. I have very limited experience so im not sure what to change to get smooth idle and free revs back inline.

its struggling to idle, combined ft is out of wack as well as my fuel trims. under partial throttle out of gear it goes full rich throughout the rpm band but operates normally under load on the road. im not having success messing with deadtime or the mafcomp sliders. Any and all input would be helpful, here is a log of whats going on
 

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  • inital setup.csv
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First thing anyone on here would tell you.

Check for boost leaks

And since you’ve watched the videos double check your work.

Im limited as well but with the wiki info on ecmlink i was able to get my car dialed in. I wish i could help more.
 
thank you for the reply im not sure if a boost leak would cause this considering its occurring at idle/partial throttle at a stop but I do need to do a boost leak test for peace of mind. I originally uploaded a xl doc here is the correct one
 

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  • log.2019.11.11-03.elg
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Here are a couple of good threads.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/basic-dsmlink-tuning-guide.262460/
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/tuning-with-ecmlink-v3.448002/
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-big-book-of-random-tuning-tips.511262/

There are steps before even touching any setting in link. As Vdubzr32 said, blt is a one of those.

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/baseinjectordata
Set your global to -45 and deadtime to 420. Zero out your fuel slider.
Under Maf Com, You only use the 0 & 50hz to get your airflowperrev to .25 on a fully warmed engine.
Under misc, uncheck Disable airflow smoothing w sd op
Under DTC's, you have code 1500. Might want to look into that.
Set tps to .63v
Make sure your throttle cable isn't too tight.

Your temp gets pretty high, 226 at one point. That might be something to look into.

Not sure if ECU inputs are correct. 2G guys will have to chime in on that one.
 
Stock throttle body?

Idle is set to 750 but she’s idling around 900. So something is off. Might want to log iscposition to make sure biss is adjusted properly.
Thank you for all the info I got frustrated and made a post when maybe more research and verification that everything is mechanically sound before tuning is what I need. I just didn’t understand why when I got everything back together it randomly started going rich like it is at idle and Revving but not under load when initially it was fine. I also suspect that the code p1500 is causing problems because my fuel pump is not rewired and I may have coil packs on the way out. Thanks again hopefully I figure it out tomorrow before work, don’t like pulling up to a stop light and seeing 10:1 afr scared I’m gonna wash the cylinders.
 
Car is running rich but isn't far off from running well. Do exactly what TK said and log iscposition etc. Your MAP is locked. I'm not familiar with the function of the map on 2gs but it would be nice to unlock that so you can see vacuum and boost.
 
Car is running rich but isn't far off from running well. Do exactly what TK said and log iscposition etc. Your MAP is locked. I'm not familiar with the function of the map on 2gs but it would be nice to unlock that so you can see vacuum and boost.
Yea I locked it when I was trying to tune, unfortunately my Omni isn’t reading it stays at a fixed number so when I get the sd bundle I’ll be able to log vacuum and boost, I’ll log isc position after work tonight
 
I understand you want to get her going but being patient will pay off in the long run. Make sure everything is sound, then start tuning so you don’t chase your tail.

If the seals haven’t been replaced, I’d bet they’re leaking.
 
so I was still driving it to work waiting until had money for an alternator, was running fine besides rich condition at idle. on a cold start up two weeks ago maybe 2 min into a cruise no longer could log WB and was running lean. limped it home and parked it till I replaced the alternator with a used one from rix racing today. on start up seemed fine still couldn't log WB so I think the voltage regulator (p1500) either damaged my WB or ecu, I think this is also why my omni stopped logging. was able to get ISC to 29 at one point then it kept fluctuating from there. it kept stalling after it was warmed up as well.

ill take my ecu out tomorrow to check it over. im not sure if it will be visible damage or not.
here are some logs of what its doing now
 

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  • log.2019.11.30-08.elg current.elg
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  • log.2019.11.30-08.elg current rolling.elg
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You're settings are still wrong. Go to "ecu inputs" and correct the map sensor. On the top you have the map set to baro but on the bottom you have it set to mdp.

Go to "maf comp" and disable maf compensation and change base maf type to speed density. Report back.
 
ok awesome didn't even notice I had it set for baro not MDP thank you its logging again. now I just have to figure out the WB, maybe it shorted out the gauge when my voltage spiked with the faulty alternator. it was oscillating around 14.7 before and going nicely between .20 and .80 but now it stays at .80

I switched the other settings, did you want to see if it was my MAF that is on its way out? im still on the stock MAF, have to buy the IAT sensor to run SD. heres a couple logs with the corrected settings. my computer died in the middle of warming her up, she kept stalling again.
 

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  • log.2019.12.01-04.elg corrected mdp.elg
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  • log.2019.12.01-05.elg warming up.elg
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No worries easy mistake with all the posts like this on here. What a relief I had those settings wrong and it’s not the sensor, thanks again for spotting that. My ECU May still be damaged unfortunately due to the alternator. my WB still reads A/F just fine on the gauge but cannot log in link.

I think it’s still a combination of things. I need remove and test my IAC, and fix the seals in the throttle body. I need to figure out my 02 not swinging voltage and why I can’t log my AF now. One of the last things is the slight overheating and now stalling, witch may be the coolant not circulating enough due to denting my water pipe too far for my H1c compressor cover. My FIAV not getting coolant mixed with all the above problems especially since it’s so cold now are probably causing my new rough idle condition.
 
No worries easy mistake with all the posts like this on here. What a relief I had those settings wrong and it’s not the sensor, thanks again for spotting that. My ECU May still be damaged unfortunately due to the alternator. my WB still reads A/F just fine on the gauge but cannot log in link.

I think it’s still a combination of things. I need remove and test my IAC, and fix the seals in the throttle body. I need to figure out my 02 not swinging voltage and why I can’t log my AF now. One of the last things is the slight overheating and now stalling, witch may be the coolant not circulating enough due to denting my water pipe too far for my H1c compressor cover. My FIAV not getting coolant mixed with all the above problems especially since it’s so cold now are probably causing my new rough idle condition.
Why test the iac? You got it around 30 when warmed up. It looks good to me unless I'm missing something. Your big problem is your wideband isn't reading. I don't know what wideband you own but double check that the signal wire didn't come loose etc. recalibrate it etc. These things are finicky. Basically, the car is running without an o2 sensor right now because the wideband is your only sensor and its not reading correctly.
 
I think the global is off. His CombFT and STFT's are trying to lean the car out more and more as the logs go along. What do you think @Vegas smith ???
 
I am tuning a 90 GSX on a MAF with cams in it, otherwise stock and I had to play with my Maf Comp to get her to idle good/at all. Try playing with it and see if the car reacts better or worse for the idling. You usually only have to fiddle with the 0, 50, 100 and 150hz area's but my car likes something like this.....Just something for you to try, you won't kill it!
Marty
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I am tuning a 90 GSX on a MAF with cams in it, otherwise stock and I had to play with my Maf Comp to get her to idle good/at all. Try playing with it and see if the car reacts better or worse for the idling. You usually only have to fiddle with the 0, 50, 100 and 150hz area's but my car likes something like this.....Just something for you to try, you won't kill it!
Marty
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Thank you for the example to shoot for, hopefully I can start to tune when I work out all these bugs. Im not sure if my ISC position swinging around is normal considering all the other problems with my 02, coolant temp and vacuum.

I think I’m done with AEM WBs I’m ordering an innovate LC2 this week. Doing some Tb shaft seals and going to try to bleed my coolant system better. with the rather large dent I had to put in the water pipe for my H1c/DNP header combos fitment, I just can’t seem to get all the air out.
 
Does your thermostat have the jiggle valve in it? It not drill a 1/8" hole in the flat portion to give it the ability to burp.
I hope my AEM does better than yours, it came with my car (EUGO or something like that) and I have it wired up just no sensor installed yet but that MAY be today. You will love the LC2, that is what is in my other 2 DSM's and it plays well and works well with Link.
 
Does your thermostat have the jiggle valve in it? It not drill a 1/8" hole in the flat portion to give it the ability to burp.
I hope my AEM does better than yours, it came with my car (EUGO or something like that) and I have it wired up just no sensor installed yet but that MAY be today. You will love the LC2, that is what is in my other 2 DSM's and it plays well and works well with Link.
Hopefully you have better luck than I have, this is my second one that’s not working correctly. However it is possible that my voltage regulator burned out something in the gauge itself. It’s reading normally on the gauge display but as @Vegas smith Pointed out it’s pinned at 9.6 in link. Either way I’m tired of it not logging the true value and am looking forward to having the LC-2.

Can’t wait to try that on my thermostat, thank you for the tip.
 
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