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2g transmission floating synchro?

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Murdertalon

Proven Member
396
82
Jul 7, 2016
East side, Washington
I just pulled the end plate on my 2g manual transmission because something has been rattling weird in there.

the synchro on the end of the upper gear set just fell out.. ?

is this synchro supposed to be attached or does it float on the spring in the end plate only?

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/noisy-wearing-reverse-synchro-reverse-gear-brake.264928/

this seems like what i have going on its the reverse synchro that rides the wavy washer the gears ect look fine.

anyone have other thoughts on this?

i may have directly caused this before when i installed a clutch master that was pushing too hard on the tob and fork sheesh...

likely going to put er back together and live with the rattle since i know what it is until i save up later to do a bad ass trans rebuild.
 

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the wavy washer aka spring seems fine although flimsy and weak appears normal, theres no play in the trans shafts and i put an adjustable wrench on the giant nuts just turned the gear set didnt seem to be loose what size are those my 34mm doesnt fit. the 5th gear synchro seems to have a little play watching videos that appears to be normal.

I have the passenger side axel removed because replacing both front axels and carrier bearing on half shaft there was a bit of play in the front axels and some in the half shaft bearing thats been interesting so far only crushed one finger. I couldnt get a ton of torque on the nuts because axel is out but it doesnt seem like either nut backed off.
 
IIRC the nut is 36mm & I jammed mine with a penny wedged into the gear teeth to torque things.
 
Update:
Fixed reverse synchro rattle.
(early 95 awd trans)

0. drain transmission
1. remove transmission end
2. aquire 36mm socket and atv
3. used flat head screwdriver to remove stakes in upper nut
4. check gear play, lower shaft 0 play, upper had 2/3mm
5. tried to tighten upper shaft nut with penny trick crushed penny
6. hit upper nut with impact gun until desired play was achieved in upper gear set.
7. completely by feel reduced play to between .5mm / 1mm
8. staked nut
8.a. used grease to hold reverse Synchro in place while placing end plate
9. rtv transmission end plate and let setup overnight, antiseized bolts
10. filled transmission with royal purple max gear 75W 90

I had a special case where the end plate of my transmission also had a small crack a prior owner had used epoxy to patch which fell out while I was using degreaser to clean the end plate so that was replaced. I did bend the wavy washer a little to apply slightly more force than it used to (not really sure it achieved much) so far with royal purple shifts are much better I also sprayed out the transmission (everything) with brake cleaner while the end plate was off.

good news everyone, this also cleared up a secondary issue I was getting where the transmission would like to buck 2nd gear out on me randomly.
 
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Those two nuts do not affect shaft play.

not shaft or bearing play, play / slack in the gears on the upper gear set. there was zero movement of shaft its self. my terminology may have been bit off.

the gear behind the shift fork (5th?) had about 3mm of bouncing around play in it at least, I tightened that stake nut and it reduced play of the gear if that makes sense. I tightened it to feel, the lower shaft and gear had zero play whatsoever. the upper had gears bouncing around with tons of play.

Also I had two issues with the transmission that disappeared maybe due to tightening the end nut maybe due to fluid clean out and change or both.

shifiting into reverse would generally cause a grind and or didn't feel correct dropping into gear, something wasnt lining up. two while shifiting into 2nd gear it would cause a kickout effect randomly and push the shifter out of second. Both of those issues and the gear rattle I had are all gone now.
 
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