I have a 1998 GS-T, stock 7-Bolt. Only external ,mods are exhaust manifold, not sure what brand due to was already on car, STMTuned air filter, HKS BOV (Recirculated), Megan Racing test pipe, Thermal R/D Catback, Walbro 190, running brand new plugs just replaced them like an hour before this post (NGK BPR6ES's), NGK wires (already on car).The manifold, BOV and wires are the only things that were on the car when purchased, other stuff I have added. I replaced valve seals 2 months prior to no start, never did timing on this car before but I tripled check before I turned the key over. It was perfectly timed. Two weeks, maybe two and a half ago I had my alternator go out on the way to work and got to work and home safely, next day replaced alternator and car ran perfectly fine for another five days. After those five days passed around 6:45 in the morning it was around 40 degrees outside (first pretty colder day compared to the past week prior and car just cranked normally but didn't wanna turn over .Now I thought it was a bad fuel pump because I did not hear it prime after cranking. So, replaced with a walbro 190 for time being until I get the build going. I put a water bottle (regular sized ice mountain haha) and cranked car over twice for about 1-2 seconds and filled the bottle about a fourth of the way so I assume I have decent enough pressure without a gauge. I checked twice on each injector if they were firing by using a flat blade screwdriver, heard each one tick constantly in the same rhythmic pattern. Checked resistance on the injectors and got 2.2 ohms for each. Checked relays prior to installing pump, checked out good on all three tests. So I'm more than positive it isn't fuel related. My next guess was coolant temp sensor, did not feel like testing so I just replaced brand new, still no start. Compression is fine, all four cylinders are within 1 psi of each other. Timing now me being lazy I DID NOT want to pull all belts and water pulley's off just to see the legit timing mark on crank. The dowel pin is around 3 o' clock, which I read and saw that's where it should be, my cam gear marks are spot on. Now I do plan on checking timing one last time. I would think after replacing valve seals and did timing correct it would not skip a tooth, but say I did not install belt correctly with tension? I still would think it would not take TWO months to finally skipped a tooth and even yet, the cam gears wouldn't line up if it did skip? I have babied the car since I replaced the seals, guess I feel the need to "break them in" haha. So now leaves us with spark and air, I know its usually never air but never hurts to check, Just unplugged MAS, just cranking still. Now for spark here's why I think it is spark related (i.e. CAS, coil pack, transistor, etc.), On cylinders 1 and 2, after cranking the car over numerous times I pulled them a few days ago (Saturday I think) and cylinder 2's plug was wet from gas, even cylinder was wet, cylinder 1 was soaked on the plug and inside cylinder. So on the left side of the motor for 3 and 4 I did not smell much gas if any and both plugs were damp, didn't really have any residue if wiped with finger, so pretty much dry. I assumed I was not getting spark in cylinders 1 and 2. Now those cylinders goes to different coil packs. Now that stumped me, is it possible for one coil off of each coil pack to go out while the other one on each pack works? Or could this mean a bad CAS or transistor? I then on Monday tested for spark with an OEM tools inline spark plug tester from AutoZone (yes I know Crapzone, but it was only $8 and I needed one) I cranked over each cylinder and each one gave the light a flicker, now on 1 and 2 that were soaked or wet from gas I could of sworn the light flickered a little dimmer, but I could of just been seeing things because I've been frustrated with my girl not starting, so I gave her a love tap and told her she can have a bigger turbo and built head if she cranks, she basically said f*ck you and did not start still?! So I have spark but maybe 1 and 2 were fouled from the gas, so today swapped for all brand new plugs, still no start!!! It did hesitate to start sorta and heard the exhaust backfire a little, not much. Tried spraying starter fluid, it just cranked and started but was idling real low and did not want to stay running so put foot on gas pedal wide open and it stayed running for 15-20 seconds idling below 500, not a rough idle just a dying idle, so I assumed again it is not fuel? I talked to one of my co workers whose a mechanic for the city (I work for Water Department) and he said sounds like something with ignition, asked a few other people who are more mechanically inclined than me and said the same. So now I'm here last resort before I lose my mind! I still feel like it is the CAS, transistor or coil pack(s). What could it be? Sorry for the long post, but I see a lot of people barely saying anything about their issue and what they tried or replaced, so I tried my best to give all info upfront to get a straight answer rather than me coming back on here and explaining other things I did not state in the first place. Thanks for anyone who assists me!!!