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2G My "new to me" 1997 GST! Could I get some questions answered?

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Echosyp

Proven Member
130
47
Oct 31, 2019
Clanton, Alabama
So I just got back home, drove up 5 1/2 hours today and picked up my 1997 GST, original paint, interior near perfect, ugly silver spray painted rims, all lights on inside worked, body in perfect condition, other than paint faded in some spots. Said it had a shitty carbon fiber hood when he got it so he got a deep hunter green hood and put on it, he also said the front bumper was hacked to crap and back, so he got the same hunter green front bumper and put it on the car THEN spray painted the bumper black, so I have to clean the headlights and buff the bumper, because you can tell where the pain ran in a few places. Also the window tint looks like someone done it in an alley way for $2, i could barely see out the passenger window it was so bad, so I'm ripping all the window tint off tomorrow.

Other than that tho, the car looks amazing and ran great on the way home with only 2 issues.

Car has installed

  • Evo 3 Turbo
  • Mishimoto Intercooler
  • Greddy Type S BOV
  • Forced Performance DSM Race Manifold
  • Brian Crower Stage 2 Cams
  • Megan Racing Cat-Back System
  • HBC Manual Boost Controller
  • AEM Boost Gauge
  • AEM Air/Fuel Gauge
  • KYB AGX Struts
  • Eibach Springs
  • Goodridge Brake Lines

BELOW IS WHERE THINGS GET WEIRD!

The MAP sensor has a rubber hose on it and goes down to a T but isnt connected to anything, what should I do with that?

Also the Greddy Type S BOV has no hose hooked up to the top nipple or bottom nipple

The AEM boost guage reads 18 at idle and 24 - 26 revved up, the guy told me the boost gauge wasn't hooked up it was just sitting in the car but when I pulled the gauge out the wire was just disconnected in the back of it, so I just hooked it up and he acted like he had no idea it was hooked up before. But he said the gauge was hooked up wrong if it was reading 18 idle and 24-26 revved up, What are your thoughts about this?

He also told me the HBC controller was turned all the way down to 6 lbs, but it's not turned all the way down it's about half way because I can still turn it both directions, so he lied yet again and had no idea what he was talking about, he claimed on the FB post he had it tuned day before yesterday and it was pushing 347whp at 18 lbs.

He also said the passenger side window motor was burned out, but it isnt, just the window lock was turned on.

But he said car wasn't stolen and gave me the title so yea.

Anyone mind helping me hook this car up right? It made the 5 1/2 hour drive home just fine with 2 issues, so I'm at least happy it'll drive that far with minimum issues, it's going to be my daily driver back and forth to work, but I only live 6 minutes away from work.

PROBLEMS I'VE FOUND SO FAR!

Check Engine light is on, he said when he cleared it the car ran like crap until the check engine light came back on. SRS light is on, BRAKE light is on, he said it has new brakes, but it also has the Goodridge brake lines on it, that could be it.

Also, looks like an O2 sensor between throttle body and the BOV, has a red and brown wire coming out of it, but the wires aren't hooked up to anything.

Wife said it was blowing black smoke out of the exhaust pipe whenever I shifted gears or whenever I stomped on the gas, her windshield and white bumper of her expedition is now blackish.

Slave cylinder is leaking and the clutch stays on the floor most of the time, but he gave me a slave cylinder to put on, I'm gonna do that tomorrow.

Also, not sure how common this is, since I've never owned a turbo car. EVERYTHING under the hood was extremely hot, like even the hood itself was scorching, but the temp of the car stayed normal temp the whole 5 1/2 hours drive home, and I pushed it up to 95+ a few times.

Also found an OBD II adapter under the driver seat, sent him a picture asking him what was it and he said he had no idea. It has no markings on it to tell me what brand, but has a 2 amp fuse on the side with old school phone charger port on one side, with a V shield looking port under it, on top it has a toggle switch, then the other side it has what looks like an HDMI port and then a round metal port with a pin inside the port.
 
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The "BRAKE" light only comes on when the handbrake is pulled. Maybe you haven't let it all the way down? Or if you have try removing the connector from it. You will have to remove the console to do this though.

Well, Brake light started working again, goes off now when brake is all the way down.
 
It's not really spiraled, but anyway what you're asking about is the turbo's oil return.

Emergency brake cable might have just been sticking a bit, or the sensor might be worn out, but you should make sure the fluid level is good in the master cylinder reservoir. The brake master cylinder. Not the clutch master cylinder.

The MAS that the car is currently running on has an integrated IAT. Until you have a decent MAS tune, don't change over to speed density.

The vacuum lines being correctly hooked up and boost leaks being plugged up should be on the top of your list of things to fix.

No matter how far down you crank a boost controller, you cannot lower boost below the waste gate actuator pressure. I've not ever seen an actuator on a DSM that opened up below about 9-10psi. So saying it's at 6psi is probably inaccurate.

We need a pic of the part you said has an obd2 plug on it that was found laying under the seat.
 
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It's not really spiraled, but anyway what you're asking about is the turbo's oil return.

Emergency brake cable might have just been sticking a bit, or the sensor might be worn out, but you should make sure the fluid level is good in the master cylinder reservoir.

I had to put a new master cylinder on today (not slave cylinder, like I previously stated) because it was leaking fluid from the rubber boot inside the car, got that replaced, but my clutch is still super weak, gonna bleed it again tomorrow following some instructions I found on this site and see if it gets better, it falls to the floor and pretty much stays there, but I have a slight amount I can push the pedal in and it works.
 
We need a pic of the part you said has an obd2 plug on it that was found laying under the seat.
It's not really spiraled, but anyway what you're asking about is the turbo's oil return.

Emergency brake cable might have just been sticking a bit, or the sensor might be worn out, but you should make sure the fluid level is good in the master cylinder reservoir. The brake master cylinder. Not the clutch master cylinder.

The MAS that the car is currently running on has an integrated IAT. Until you have a decent MAS tune, don't change over to speed density.

The vacuum lines being correctly hooked up and boost leaks being plugged up should be on the top of your list of things to fix.

No matter how far down you crank a boost controller, you cannot lower boost below the waste gate actuator pressure. I've not ever seen an actuator on a DSM that opened up below about 9-10psi. So saying it's at 6psi is probably inaccurate.

We need a pic of the part you said has an obd2 plug on it that was found laying under the seat.

I turned the HBC boost controller all the way down and the AEM boost guage didn't change at all, so yea guessing that gauge isnt hooked up right.

Seems all the vacuum lines are good now, I just unhooked the vacuum line going under the battery and put it to the BOV, rest of lines are good.

Just need to get clutch working right and find the oil leak. Here is a few pics of the OBD I found under the seat.

The car is also slammed, so it's hard for me to get under it at all.
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Yeah thats definitely a tuning device. Was it plugged into anything or just sitting there loose? Also, definitely get that oil leak from the oil return fixed and those plug wires LOL!

Also make sure you connect the RIGHT hose to the canister you took the hose off to go to the BOV. Don't want to have leak in the EGR/EVAP system. Slowly and surely you are going to get there man. Just be patient with the DSMs. As you can see a lot of people hack these things up trying to be cheap and "tuner" haha.
 
Yeah thats definitely a tuning device. Was it plugged into anything or just sitting there loose? Also, definitely get that oil leak from the oil return fixed and those plug wires LOL!

Also make sure you connect the RIGHT hose to the canister you took the hose off to go to the BOV. Don't want to have leak in the EGR/EVAP system. Slowly and surely you are going to get there man. Just be patient with the DSMs. As you can see a lot of people hack these things up trying to be cheap and "tuner" haha.

It was laying under the seat with a bunch of other misc crap. (Bolts, candy paper, ect.) the guy I got it from said he had no idea what it was or where it came from.

From pictures, it looks like the hose I disconnected and put on the BOV was going to the Purge Control Valve. So gonna have to trace the rest of the vacuum line to hook it back up.

Also for the oil leak, I hope it's just the oil return hose, not sure yet tho.

And for the wires, they don't look that bad in person, not sure what you guys saw from the photos, all the black tape on them was where the wires was sitting on the valve cover, not sure what they did, maybe put tape on them so the valve cover wouldn't melt them? But dude I got it from said they was brand new wires (But ya see, he also said a bunch of other stuff)

Yea, it's gonna take me a little bit of time, as this is now my daily driver vehicle so I gotta eventually get it back to near perfect.

Also another question, the AEM Air / Fuel gauge, it reads 14.8 at all times, that good or does it sound like that's not hooked up right either?
 
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Unfortunately that doesn’t appear to be hooked up correctly either. Even at idle, the readout will hover around 14.7, but will flicker from, maybe, 14.6 to 14.9, and constantly bounce around that range. When driving, the numbers will — hopefully — get not much higher than 14.7. Once it is hooked up correctly, watch to see that the numbers significantly decrease as the boost builds.
 
Unfortunately that doesn’t appear to be hooked up correctly either. Even at idle, the readout will hover around 14.7, but will flicker from, maybe, 14.6 to 14.9, and constantly bounce around that range. When driving, the numbers will — hopefully — get not much higher than 14.7. Once it is hooked up correctly, watch to see that the numbers significantly decrease as the boost builds.

Watching a video, the air/fuel should just be tapped into the exhaust pipe right?
 
Question on the clutch, woke up this morn and clutch went to the floor (I already knew it did that) so I had to hand pump it a good bit to get somewhat of a clutch, is that air in the lines / need to adjust the master cylinder rod? Or this gonna mean I need a new clutch?

I had to put a new master cylinder on it yesterday because the old one was leaking.
 
Question on the clutch, woke up this morn and clutch went to the floor (I already knew it did that) so I had to hand pump it a good bit to get somewhat of a clutch, is that air in the lines / need to adjust the master cylinder rod? Or this gonna mean I need a new clutch?

I had to put a new master cylinder on it yesterday because the old one was leaking.
If you did not bleed it then there is air in the system.
 
I think you got pretty lucky and that is the wideband but who knows if it is still hooked up. Those are nice gauges you got with the car, which means someone at one point did put money in the car to make it nice, but who knows the status of it now. Whats the update on the car??
 
I think you got pretty lucky and that is the wideband but who knows if it is still hooked up. Those are nice gauges you got with the car, which means someone at one point did put money in the car to make it nice, but who knows the status of it now. Whats the update on the car??

Haven't had much time this week, as it's been raining and I've been working pretty late, but saturday I'm going out and going over the entire car, it's had a good bit of money put in the car as far as quality parts.

The flex pipe on the exhaust is messed up, because the car is slammed, I can barely put my foot under the side of the car. So when I crank it up it's got a nice deep rumble to it, not like those honda coffee cans, but as I got to digging it's got a full megan racing cat-back on it, but with the flex pipe messed up you get a lot of sound coming from the front of the car instead of all out the muffler. Which I'm hoping is the reason for the blackish smoke and CEL on. Even tho it sounds good, I'm gonna fix it.

Other than that and the clutch which I'm hoping to fix this weekend, this car is running awesome with no problems.

I asked the guy who put the cams on the car because on the FB post he said he just had cams installed and a tune done, so I called the shop and they confirmed he had them order and install Brian Crower stage 2 cams and they dyno tuned it for him and it was pushing 347hp, but he had them turn the boost down for him because his wife's car messed up so she was gonna be driving it. And in his FB messages to me he said his wife's RAV 4 messed up and he was letting her drive it, so that part checked out good for me.

So I'm pretty happy with it overall, all the factory lights work, factory paint is awesome still, and interior is almost perfect. Power locks work, power windows work, sunroof works, ac works, heater works I paid $3000 for the car.
 
So I'm pretty happy with it overall, all the factory lights work, factory paint is awesome still, and interior is almost perfect. Power locks work, power windows work, sunroof works, ac works, heater works I paid $3000 for the car.
You're lucky I didn't find it first, or I'd have it LOL.
 
You're lucky I didn't find it first, or I'd have it LOL.

Haha! I was literally going to go buy one down in Mobile, but it had a bad miss at low idle because the recirculating port wasnt plugged and the BOV was on backwards and the guy had no idea, plus it was a cheap ebay BOV.

But I had planned on going down to mobile Saturday to buy it, Thursday night I got up from my comp and as I stood up I just clicked on Facebook Marketplace and searched GST and happen to see this one just posted 5 minutes ago. So I sat back down and read the post and contacted the guy to ask all the usual questions, Friday he contacted me and asked if I was for real making the 5 1/2 hour drive because some guy offered him $3800 for it with a $1000 deposit to hold it until he could come get it, but he told the guy no that he already promised me. So I woke up at 2:30 saturday morning and drove up to TN and gave him $3000 for it and he showed me the message dude sent him, he said he doesnt wish harm on anyone but he hoped my alarm didnt go off so he could come get it before me. I checked it out for about an hour then we cut out headed back home and I had no issues on the way home.

I could prob fix the small issues and repost it for $4000, but honestly having this car now, brought me back to my 18-19 year old days when I had a 1995 240sx SE and then the 2003 Eclipse GS, and being almost 40 now, I live in a super small town full of spray painted Honda's and I'm enjoying watching the honda guys pull into the gas station revving up their coffee cans while their gf think they are awesome, then they hear the BOV and roll their window back up and putt putt off.
 
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Well, made a discovery tonight, I believe the turbo on the car isn't an EVO 3, from all the pictures I've looked at, the one on the car looks exactly like this Garret Big T28 turbo, and from this picture I found the numbers are almost matching, when it warms up tomorrow I"m gonna dig a bit deeper and see what I can find out.
 
If you plan on this car being a project car, It'd be awesome if you make a build thread for it. I would like to see what you've got going on here, and I'm sure some other people would too. Plus then you won't have to flood this thread. :thumb:
 
If you plan on this car being a project car, It'd be awesome if you make a build thread for it. I would like to see what you've got going on here, and I'm sure some other people would too. Plus then you won't have to flood this thread. :thumb:

Good idea, I'll start updating over there, as I got the thread already started when I created my build profile
 
When I replaced my radio, I did not find any cords that looked like that. Those look like some fiber optic crap, no idea why those are in there.

Couldn't find where they went to, they kept going toward the front of the car, also someone has taken the ECU out, as it's just laying on the floor in there behind the radio. Also I believe the MAP sensor wire and the IAT sensor wire are running from under the car and inside, there is 2 wires just laying under the radio that's coming from under the hood.

Also, the vacuum line I unplugged and hooked up to the BOV, I noticed the factory vacuum lines, 2 of them run down into 1, then that 1 goes under the battery, I tried following the vacuum line diagram but couldn't figure out why those 2 lines ran into a plastic bracket and turned into 1, I'm guessing 1 of those need unplugged and ran to the proper location under the battery.
 
Couldn't find where they went to, they kept going toward the front of the car, also someone has taken the ECU out, as it's just laying on the floor in there behind the radio. Also I believe the MAP sensor wire and the IAT sensor wire are running from under the car and inside, there is 2 wires just laying under the radio that's coming from under the hood.

Also, the vacuum line I unplugged and hooked up to the BOV, I noticed the factory vacuum lines, 2 of them run down into 1, then that 1 goes under the battery, I tried following the vacuum line diagram but couldn't figure out why those 2 lines ran into a plastic bracket and turned into 1, I'm guessing 1 of those need unplugged and ran to the proper location under the battery.
The vacuum systems suck for all models of these car. I spent a few hours sorting mine out. Good luck with it.
 
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