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Been reading through a lot of build threads and figured I should start up my own!
There is really no goal for this car. It would be sweet to have a 600hp streetcar but something is learning me towards drag racing. We'll see what time and budget allows.
FYI this is my first project and I'm learning everything as I go. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I bought this zero rust 105k Talon about a year ago. It sat in a garage for 8 months out of the past year because of going back and forth to Ontario for school. Slowly but surely she'll get some love and we'll see where she gets taken!

So onto what I've done this weekend. I've spent some $$$. Got some goodies from a friend who is parting his car out. Hoping next weekend to throw in the 450lph pump, all the lines and afpr. I believe it's all e-85 compatible, but where I'm from there is only 1 or maybe 2 e-85 stations. I was about to use a ChrisFix discount code to get a Haynes manual for these cars but that friend was kind enough to just give me his. You can also see two brand new headlights in the corner of the picture there (but that's for the other car ;) ).
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From the looks of it, the intake might get held off until I pull the engine for any reason. I picked up the 1g throttle body from pick & pull on the weekend. In true pick & pull fashion I got charged $40 for the body, and another $30 for the TPS. They were about to charge me even more for the IAC but the nice lookin lady at the desk took my side over the manager (or whatever her title was) and didn't charge me. Figured out at the second pick & pull of the day that I get 10% off for being a student, so I know for next time. It's not the 63mm throttle body but eh, it works right? I also gave her a bit of a clean, nothing too special. Figure when I pull the engine to build it, I'll do some powdercoating here and there.
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I bought this knockoff turbosmart MBC after reading a thread about how they are really good bang-for-your-buck boost controllers. Once I hooked it up correctly, I was pushing 12lbs on the E3 16g, which is pretty much what I'm comfortable with before I throw in the new fuel system.
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I am having a few issues with boost creep though. If I WOT it'll boost up to 15lbs and settle back around 12.5. I would be a lot more comfortable pushing more boost if my wideband was working. The previous owner unfortuantely didn't tie down the connector anywhere in the engine bay and it was super long. One day the connector fell out under the engine bay and under my front tire. A little bit of a more complicated soldering job so I'm leaving it for one of my buddies to help me out with. I'm guessing it's not running too lean: when the sensor worked, the air/fuel ratio under full boost was 10. The car also smells dece rich. I should be fine, however I will be taking it easy on the boost until I get that sensor fixed.
 
Well here goes another update. I’ve been in Eastern Canada for all of summer (for school), and I haven’t had the chance to work on the car. Now that I’m back for 4 months, it’s crunch time to make this car sick.

First, I wanted to relocate the battery to the trunk. I didn’t want to buy a premade battery box or anything because I wanted it to perfectly fit an Optima battery. Plus I had a bunch of spare steel sitting in my backyard not doing anything.
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The previous owner installed this amp and sub in the trunk. I took the sub out, but the amp looks like it’s wired to something else so I had to mess around a bit with his wiring and find a new spot for it (previously it was mounted to the back of the back seats). The tray has two tabs on each side for when my tie-down gets here, and I can properly secure it. That's when it will get painted too. For rewiring from the trunk, I just bought 24 feet of 1-gauge welding wire from Princess Auto and some connectors here and there. I have a fuse/kill switch within arms-reach of me in-case anything seems weird.

Now I wanted to tackle fuel.
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When I took out my fuel sending unit to put in the 450lph fuel pump, I brought it to a welding place to get a bung welded in-place where that 14mm demon bung is (it strips like nobody’s business). Then just a stainless steel line all the way up the car.
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This line connects to a nice salmon-coloured AEM fuel rail, then to an afpr, and back to the stock hardline after some random barb fitting and a Crappy Tire (Canadian Tire for you ‘muricans) fuel line.

Around this point is when I tested the entire system, had to ask the DSM overlords about how to adjust the AFPR, but now I have blessed fuel pressure.
hR1SUkt

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Next I did a fuel pump rewire. It might look a bit like a jungle but frankly I don’t really care, this car is eventually going to be my track car. I also added a fire extinguisher just attached with some Velcro so I can rip it off. I’m honestly not too confident in my skills with fuel and spark, so might as well be safe. I kinda hate the look of the extinguisher but function > form I suppose.

I made sure I had no leaks anywhere and the car has been good for about an entire day now. Feels a bit more responsive and I turned up the boost a bit (21lbs) and she pulls decently hard.
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I previously had these tinted halo lights and they were loosing their glam on me, so I changed out to some brand new headlights.
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Now this next one might not be a favourite for most of y’all. I picked up some new wheels with a bit more offset and meat to fit the wheel wells better. Since I’m a 12-year old boy I wanted some hot-boi spikey lug nuts. Honestly I’m still not too sure about them. Luckily I can just unscrew the spikes from the lungs and have normal black lug nuts if I ever change my mind.

I haven’t installed my venom intake manifold yet mainly because it has issues with the throttle body. The throttle cable thing hits the manifold on both 2g and 1g TBs, which makes them both not bolt up to the manifold. I read somewhere that it’s meant to be used with the Q45 TB, so I’m just keeping my eye out for something at PnP or classifieds. If anyone has one that isn’t doing anything HMU!
 
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So the car was running really well for a week and I decided to take it apart again. The E3 16g was having horrendous boost creep issues: set at 17psi, would jump to 21psi and settle back again at 17. This is fine as I havae enough fueling but it sucks for when doing a pull because the car feels like it falls flat on it's face.
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I completely deleted AC becuase, ever since I've owned this car, I've never used it. I salvaged all of the lines just in-case I want to put it back in. There is so much space now! and the AC condensor weighs a ton! I started mocking up the intake manifold. I thought I would need to make a throttle body spacer but it looks like a 1g TB fits really snug on the manifold, the only issue was that it hit that black throttle wire box thing. I've always hated that box, it's ugly and it makes the throttle cable wrap all the way around the engine before coming back to the manifold. It makes sense from a not-trying-to-kink-the-line perspective but what about my beautiful engine bay? Long story short, I'm deleting cruise control, and I am going to try and make my cable go straight from the firewall to the TB.
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The idea so far is that where those two nuts are, I will basically make a bracket that gets held inbetween, and connect that bracket to my intake manifold throttle cable bracket thing is supposed to go. This gives me not too much adjustability but hopefully enough. I am worried about this little thing wrapping above the intake manifold in this picture. When I was fitting it up, I didn't want it closer to the firewall for the cable to pull itself out, and it was almost too long if I put it under the intake manifold. So I put it above like this and it was basically perfect, just worried about if bending the line that aggressively is a really bad idea or not.
Well today I'm hoping to drop a bunch of engine bay stuff off for powdercoating (intake mani included) so I'll have to continue that later anyways. I have an OFH leak (honestly not even sure from what gasket or oring) and some very minor rust appearing on the front end that I am going to clean up and paint over. I HOPE this car will be up by this next weekend, I suppose it depends how fast these RTM gaskets get to me.
 
Getting closer to this whole problem being finished. Needless to say, the intake manifold was not easy to bolt-up. I had to get a 1g throttle body, and delete the black throttle cable box (I was already planning on deleting cruise control, but this brought a whole new challenge of creating a bracket to have the throttle cable go directly to the TB. The intake manifold puts the TB at a steeper angle so my TB elbow is far from bolt-on, It's almost hitting the tranny. I figure I'll connect the intake piping with that flex pipe of whatever and drive the car to a buddy to weld the elbow at the proper angle. While everything was apart, I decided to get a few things powdercoated:
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Now I'm pretty much just having issues with the new SS clutch line. When I was putting it in, I cross-threaded it a bit. Now I'm planning to take out the master cylinder, retap it to a new size, and search the realms of NAPA for some fitting that I can put on the end of this clutch line. I definitely didn't think that this clutch line was going to be the issue holding up completion but here we are. I threw some heat wrap on the o2 housing because I was having issues with the o2 line bouncing around, hitting the housing, and melting a bit. I've since secured the line but wrapped the housing just-in-case. The heat wrap looked super mean on the housing, and I had an ugly weld on the j-pipe so I decided to wrap that too, mostly for looks.
The good thing about me taking everything apart was that I got to finish the half-ass job of the previous owner deleting emissions, I deleted AC, and got to clean up the back of the bay. There is so much room everywhere in the bay now and I'm guessing the car lost 60-80 lbs.
The next challenge (after the ungodly clutch line) will be finding a good place to mount the coilpack (open to suggestions).
 
So I had an extremely hard time fitting up this manifold, turns out it has a crack somewhere and is creating a vacuum leak. Whatever, I threw it to the side and put the stock one back on. One thing I’m getting really invested into is 3D printing mounting solutions in my bay. This is only the first iteration, which means they aren’t perfect but I made a mount for my AFPR, catch can, and TB cable.
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They are all different colours but again: first iteration. I get at-cost printing with my work so might as well use it!
I think I might have to make a little board inside of the car to turn on fans and other accessories so that’s the next goal. I’m not sure if I want to make it it’s own separable piece in the interior, or take out a stock piece and print something to “bolt-in.” I’m leaning towards doing something with the cup holder/change holder thing because I NEVER use it. I can’t put a drink there because it’s uncomfortable to shift and the only thing in the change thing is... well... change.
Overall, the car is finally drivable again!
 
Cool stuff. what do you use for 3d printing?
Thanks man! Not sure what particularity you’re referring to so I’ll just tell you everything. I CAD on Solid Edge (highly recommend if anyone wants to learn CAD), print on a Prusa Original i3, printing only using PLA. So far I have halfway decent luck with this printer. Work has a bunch of them and some of them are absolute trash and some of them are amazing, just have to learn which ones to use.

I’m a bit worried about the structural integrity of the plastic pieces. So far it’s not too bad but I have to design around certain places being brittle and just snapping off. For example, 90 deg corners, I ALWAYS model in a chamfer or fillet or something. A straight 90 deg in a print is the weakest spot.

Funny situation happened last night, the AFPR mount was half an inch too high, so when I put the hood down to test drive last night, I completely snapped the mount (wanna guess where is snapped? Hint: it’s 90 deg and a corner). Guess it’s good I was planning for revisions.
 
I’ve been working a lot on this 3D printed throttle body bracket. It’s a good alternative to buying the $200 non-cruise control cable. It’s on it’s 10th design iteration and finally good enough to drive around. I still want to do some more revising before I forget about it. The main thing I have to battle is the flex in the plastic.
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I had an issue with one of the designs, where the throttle cable would pop out of the bracket, but now it has a little roof thing that keeps it in place. I finalized my catch can bracket, looks pretty clean imo.
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I also had a bit of an incident last night with the car. Everytime I make a design iteration on the TB bracket I drive it around and abuse the car a little to see if the bracket will hold up. I suppose it’s only a good thing that something else broke before this bracket failed.
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Huge shoutout to AMA. I’ve been towed a few times so I’m used to it but this guy waved the $7 extra fee for the extra distance to my place and he arrived on-scene 25 minutes earlier than his expected arrival. Basically he arrived 15 minutes after I finished up the call to AMA.
Never had this kind of issue before but basically I called the tow because I started leaked a ton of coolant, and I didn’t want to deal with it in the middle of downtown. I thought it was much worse than it was, but it was just this little hose that split because of too much pressure? Either that or heat but pressure seems more likely.
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It was awfully lucky, just a 5 minute fix this morning. Next on the list for this car is figuring out why my Wideband is not reading anything, getting some headstuds, and tuning her. I will make a few more changes on that TB bracket and might offer it to people if there is any interest. It’s not the most formal solution but it’ll be a way to do a cruise control delete without having to buy the $200 (CAD (RTM)) non-cruise cable and it’s cleaner, the cable just goes from the firewall straight to the TB.
 
Weather here had been pretty bad and it's making me not want to work on the car. Shifter bushing upgrade just came in. Still having issues with this wideband and it not reading any values under boost. Autometer has a service thing where I can send it in though so I'm thinking I'll do that when I get the drive to pull the whole system. In other news, I've been doing a load of 3D printing, particularly making bumper-risers because I hated the look of the droopy bumper. If you can't see the difference, basically I used to be able to put an entire finger between the bottom of the headlight and the bumper, now it's super tight.
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Don't mind my gap in-between the side of the headlight and my bumper, the bumper is made for other headlights but I make it work. I'm thinking I might offer this as a cheap, adjustable (slightly), and on-demand option for bumper-risers (as opposed to those metal ones). I'll make a formal interest thread once I print out a bunch of different colors and choose which ones I want to offer (I also need to fit it to my eclipse to make sure it fits an oem bumper, but I'm pretty sure it will considering I took the measurements from the eclipse in the first place).

Also: don't make fun of my rock chips :( I live in rock city and I just don’t care.
 
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Sorry for the late reply. Didn't want to take off my bumper another time to show the part so I fitted the risers on my eclipse. Here are some pics. When I start offering them, they will come with all of the hardware pictured. Took me a total of 1 minute to install once the bumper was off.
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Excuse the mcnasty frame. This is my long-time project car, just sits outside and collects grime (for now).
 
So I see that you have deleted your bumper support rails, as this would not work if you still had them. Just hope you don't get into an accident, or it'll tear your bumper right off.
Ahaha, yeah. Have to delete the front crash bar to fit an FMIC. People debate about it, whatever, I feel like my metal fmic will probably do more in a crash than the fibreglass bash bar. This is for people who have an FMIC, deleted the crash bar, and don't have that stryofoam thingy that supports the bumper anymore.
 
Sorry for the late reply. Didn't want to take off my bumper another time to show the part so I fitted the risers on my eclipse. Here are some pics. When I start offering them, they will come with all of the hardware pictured. Took me a total of 1 minute to install once the bumper was off.
View attachment 582183 View attachment 582184 View attachment 582185
Excuse the mcnasty frame. This is my long-time project car, just sits outside and collects grime (for now).
PRICE??
 
I haven't figured out shipping and stuff yet. I'm hoping ~$60 USD shipped for the pair + hardware. I will make a formal interest thread once I get a bit of stock because they are convenient to print, however, take some time because they are a big, and 100% infilled parts.

Some things to note:
They are designed to be a bit flexible, but have tension upwards to pull the bumper towards the headlight. It may take some getting-used-to to get the bumper on/off.
They are 100% infill, which means you can freely drill holes or shave stuff down to fit your setup.

This must only be for body kits because I ordered a bumper from Ebay, stock replacement, and it fits very well. Not a noticeable gap there. Less than a half inch anyway.!

I have a stock 2gb eclipse (with a crash bar delete obviously) and it has the same gap, even worse than my talon actually. Do you still have your crash bar and styrofoam? Pretty sure the styrofoam is what holds up the bumper stock. If not, there is chance you just have a pretty rigid bumper and those side bolts are holding yours up. Also, if it's worth the half-an-inch, in your case, is totally up to you, my gap is ~1-2mm now.
 
I have a stock 2gb eclipse (with a crash bar delete obviously) and it has the same gap, even worse than my talon actually. Do you still have your crash bar and styrofoam? Pretty sure the styrofoam is what holds up the bumper stock. If not, there is chance you just have a pretty rigid bumper and those side bolts are holding yours up. Also, if it's worth the half-an-inch, in your case, is totally up to you, my gap is ~1-2mm now.
I do still have the foam crash support, I didn't consider that that helps some.
 
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Been being super lazy working on cars. With the cold outside and no friends wanting to come help it's way too boring to do a lot of stuff alone. Plus I JUST got caught up on orders for the bumper risers, don't even have ABS sets for myself yet.
Anyways, I've been getting pretty heavy into electrical stuff. I'm working on some unique underlights for this car but I'm being really lazy. Instead I ordered some LED strips off amazon and wanted to brighten up my garage. First off, this was probably the easiest thing I've done for my garage, and the one that payed off the most. I HATED working in a dimly-lit garage. I'm planning to put up even more just to have a stupid amount of lighting in here. Also, please ignore how messy my garage is. I actually cropped a lot of the garbage out of that picture, I just can't be bothered to store the interior parts of the eclipse when I'm planning on putting them right back in soon. Plus I don't have too much space to begin with.
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I shipped off my wideband to get fixed by Autometer. This is an issue I've had for a long time and it keeps coming back. It reads nothing under boost, basically at idle AFRs all the time. I tried replacing that super long cable but no luck so I just sent it off to not deal with it anymore. Coincidentally, a few days after, my "reliable" daily broke down, needed an alternator and a starter. Had to drive this car to work two times with the open wideband bung in the downpipe. Oh yeah and it was snowing both days. I'm honestly not really worried about the snow or salt because I just got the car undercoated as well as that gel stuff, so I just wasn't so happy about breathing the fumes (I'm sure it wasn't much but I smelled it for sure). I would have plugged the bung hole, but again, I just couldn't be bothered. In a bit of a slump about working on the cars at the moment, but I suspect it's just the weather.
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I'm chilling off on expenses right now because I have to go back to school in Ontario for a bit. I also want to set up all my 3D printing there and it won't be cheap to do that. Hopefully I can save up and give the Talon the real racecar treatment that it deserves (seats are next I'm thinking).
Oh I also wanted to try out tinting. I got some of the 5% heat blocking stuff and I want to put it on all the windows that I legally can. I already used some tint for another house project so I had some practice and enough left to do both rear-quarter windows.
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The finished product is great. I'm surprised at how easy it was. The only thing that bothers me is the factory black stuff. I'm not sure if I should have taken it off, then put on the tint? Can I even take that stuff off? I figure it would look a lot cleaner all-tinted. I'm considering on making 3D printed rear quarter windows. I'm working to see if there is any way I can make them clear, and pretty lightweight, so I'll probably just hold off on the tint dilemma for now. Either that or just basic polycarbwindows.
Also, I would do the hatch window to completely eliminate the fishbowl but the tint I got from crappy tire isn't wide enough to cover the entire window. I don't want any lines or anything so I either have to go a different route or really finesse two pieces of tint on the hatch.
 
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