The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

1998 TSI AWD Rebuild

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Picked up the Talon mid July as a project to throw some mods on and have fun.

IMG_3100 (1).jpg

I knew the care didnt pass CA smog, but figured I could take a look and fix this issue, Well when I dove into the paperwork and car noticed it was considered a gross polluter, so I ended up doing a compression test to check the health of the motor. Unfortunately it was reading 70 PSI on cylinder 2 and after performing a wet test and it raised about 50 PSI I figured it was going to be the rings.

I tore into it and pulled the motor, trying to keep track of any missing bolts and parts and to my surprise the car was all stock with very few things missing. Long story short engine and trans are out and the block and head are off to the machine shop to get a look over and hopefully I will be back to reassembling soon.

IMG_3542.JPG


I am sure I will have a ton of questions (some stupid) while doing this, so I am glad to have this awesome community to go to. Looking forward to chatting!
 
I appreciate it.

Feeling pretty good just running into a question with the thrust bearing.

My understanding is 97+ came with 3 piece bearings which was basically a main bearing and 2 thrust washers.

However when I pulled everything apart it looks like this is the 1 piece thrust bearing style. I have no evidence to think this motor has ever been torn into and replaced so I guess I’m wondering if the 97-98 years came with either option depending on the build date.
9B32A88E-FE76-4BFA-8D1E-9DD2B4218DF5.jpeg
I ordered parts and this is what came which is the 3 piece for 98s. I think I will need to post in the tech forum to get a response.
D611E1EA-08CC-4524-BB94-80BCF98E88E3.jpeg
 
While the block is at the machine shop I figured i would take a look at the interior and fix some issues it currently has as well. Also couldn’t hurt to clean it.

I knew the sunroof was broken so I tore into it to see what was wrong. A cable had broke off, so I went to the local junkyard and yanked an assembly out of a Sebring luckily these parts are cross compatible because I never would of found one from an eclipse or talon.

EFD6F9A8-94FC-4157-98AE-F3E30B696B1A.jpeg
3F52D25B-5E35-45E9-8223-17F4B44214E8.jpeg
C69DF3FA-60D2-4AB0-9F1B-563EBBFBB0D3.jpeg
Also the headliner and sun visors are gonna need to be reupholstered so I’ll purchase some headliner fabric and get that replaced soon.

F583BD73-50F6-4084-83B8-FD2B69BF4269.jpeg
38817AA0-3A03-4FB2-9D1A-73AD43FD9855.jpeg

The carpet was a lot worse than what is pictured but for a first pass I’m still not happy so I’ll have to go back again. Any recommendations on solvents or how to clean this would be much appreciated.

E7430670-66BD-42FD-8D00-4AB610DD7D37.jpeg
 
I’m wondering if the 97-98 years came with either option depending on the build date.
The split thrust bearing blocks were installed in mitsubishi engined cars with a build date after June of 1997. Check your door tag for your build date.
 
The split thrust bearing blocks were installed in mitsubishi engined cars with a build date after June of 1997. Check your door tag for your build date.

Thanks for the information. Interestingly enough it’s actually July 1997 wonder if someone was in here. Is there a way to check the motor for a revision stamp or something?

0303509A-072E-4388-8969-27170E125A4A.jpeg
 
Been working through the rebuild and ran into a few interesting things.

Regarding the thrust bearing questions up top, still not sure what to make of it. The block tag vin matches my door and dash vin, so it all seems original. Still not sure why I have single piece thrust bearings, but just went with it and moved on with the rebuild.

Then I ran into the timing tensioner the one I pulled off the block is very clearly a early 95 7bolt tensioner
MD308587_1024x1024.jpg

so at this point im not quite sure what to make of it. I ordered a late 7bolt tensioner
MD308086_1024x1024.jpg
not sure if I can put this new tensioner on.

I do not understand how this can be a 1998 with a build date of July 97, but seems to be an early 7 bolt and again I know this all came on the car as the block vin matches up.

Any insight would be appreciated
 
Last edited:
Been working through the rebuild and ran into a few interesting things.

Regarding the thrust bearing questions up top, still not sure what to make of it. The block tag vin matches my door and dash vin, so it all seems original. Still not sure why I have single piece thrust bearings, but just went with it and moved on with the rebuild.

Then I ran into the timing tensioner the one I pulled off the block is very clearly a early 95 7bolt tensioner
View attachment 581858

so at this point im not quite sure what to make of it. I ordered a late 7bolt tensioner
View attachment 581859
not sure if I can put this new tensioner on.

I do not understand how this can be a 1998 with a build date of July 97, but seems to be an early 7 bolt and again I know this all came on the car as the block vin matches up.

Any insight would be appreciated

Considering I am not the first owner I am going with the new tensioner MD308086 and just assuming that someone before me used the wrong tensioner. This paired with the single piece thrust bearings, and this block definitely being original to this 98 I am at a loss. Heres to hoping it all works out.
 
I wish I had a better answer for you, but have you considered using Mitsubishi CAPS? I don't know where you might find a copy of the program these days and I'm not even sure where I left my old laptop with it installed. But it would be able to provide exact part numbers for you based on the VIN.
 
I wish I had a better answer for you, but have you considered using Mitsubishi CAPS? I don't know where you might find a copy of the program these days and I'm not even sure where I left my old laptop with it installed. But it would be able to provide exact part numbers for you based on the VIN.

I appreciate all the help.

Unfortunately I cant get CAPS installed on anything and ASA doesnt accept my VIN which I assume is because its a Talon.

I called up ExtremePSI and they can only check Mitsubishi VINs as well

I found this nice little parts guide and it lists MD308086 (even though the image looks like the early 2g tensioner)
Capture.PNG

Searching my VIN on autozone (last resort) brings up both tensioners and says they both fit
Capture2.PNG

but I am still waiting on parts anyway, so I am going to keep looking and maybe go down the road of installing xp on a VM if possible, to install CAPS and hopefully have some luck there. Also might call around to Dodge jeep chrysler, see if anyone still has access to lookup part numbers for Eagle based on VIN.

With all the VINs matching up, (10th digit is a W so it is 1998) I am thinking I just got an engine that was right at the tail end of the single thrust bearing era and someone used the incorrect tensioner last time they did the belt. Thats the conclusion I have come to after looking over thread after thread and sites regarding the timing components and their different variations.

As always thanks Tuners for the help!
 
Question and any help is appreciated.

When everything on the motor was apart I was cleaning off the gasket surface on the front case, while doing so I used carb cleaner, gasket remover etc. and got the surface clean. Once I was finished in my infinite wisdom I figured to really clean out the oil pump in case I somehow got solvent in there I would put in some oil in the pickup tube hole and spin the oil pump to run fresh oil through it, I did so until I made sure good oil came out of the port in the front case. Sorry if that is confusing.

I have put it all together and am ready for the timing belt, but the oil pump sprocket doesnt "fall" freely to either side to confirm the oil pump is in time. I have the oil pan off, so I can clearly see the balance shaft is out of the way of the bolt you would put a screwdriver through and can confirm the timing, but the fact that the gear does not fall freely is a little concerning.

My question is did I mess up by putting oil in the pump before, did I just "create" oil pressure by priming it off the block per se and now the balance shaft and gear wont fall freely?

Not sure all I can say is I am definitely NEW to this
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top