The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support RTM Racing
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

2G About time I found one of these!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JNS1364

Probationary Member
6
3
Oct 26, 2019
New Port Richey, Florida
Hey guys! First time creating a post, im new to all of this. I live in FL and 2 days ago I managed to get my hands on a 1995 GST with 114k Miles for 800$ was it worth it? It had a bit of a head gasket leak, so I decided to remove to do a whole basic engine rebuild, I want to keep it stock right now for the most part until im able to get my hands on more money and such. Ive ordered Cometic Head Gasket, ARP Head Studs, I dont know what else should i buy towards the head wise, maybe some lifters or a pressure regulator. Anything would be helpful thank you!
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0667.PNG
    IMG_0667.PNG
    232.5 KB · Views: 63
  • IMG_0666.PNG
    IMG_0666.PNG
    237 KB · Views: 52
  • IMG_0665.PNG
    IMG_0665.PNG
    228.5 KB · Views: 54
  • IMG_0693.JPG
    IMG_0693.JPG
    151 KB · Views: 53
  • IMG_0694.JPG
    IMG_0694.JPG
    193.1 KB · Views: 54
I’d refresh the head and replace all timing components since you have the head off. If you get the head decked, you’ll want to port the tear drop oil passage on the head since it’ll raise the oil pressure. You’ll want to replace all the seals and water pump “while you’re in there”.

If you notice any exhaust manifold studs loose or valve cover bolt hole threads that are suspect, this is the time to drill them out and install heli coil or time sert before sending it off to the machine shop.

This is when do it right the first time really comes in handy. Also inspect the crank pulley/harmonic balancer and replace if it looks old.
 
Welcome to the site! Car looks good and $800 isn’t bad at all for a turbo DSM. I second tk106 post- if you have it all apart, might as well replace all the seals and timing components. Not sure what your budget looks like but yeah, it’ll be costly to do it right. Do it yourself and you save a ton on labor.
However if you have a timing component failure in an interference motor, you’re looking at another rebuild anyway.

So new timing belt and balance shaft belt (if it still has the BS belt- a lot of DSMers eliminate it), all new pulleys and a new auto tensioner (the L shaped plunger held in with two bolts) are a good idea. New valve cover gasket- the area around the cams is a common leak spot. Water pump and new coolant couldn't hurt.
For the head, new valve stem seals at minimum. Get the upgraded 3g lifters (called lash adjusters in the service manual I think) and make sure rocker arms are in spec. Valves, retainers, and cams should all be reusable.

By “regulator” I assume you mean the fuel pressure regulator at the end of the fuel rail. For stock boost, it should be fine. Could replace your fuel filter though. In a 1g car, it’s just behind the battery and looks like a black metal bottle. I assume it’s similar for the 2g cars.

Good luck! If you have questions just search the site or ask. Just about every DSM issue has come up and been solved.
 
Think OP was asking about kiggly hla. Not necessary but you can while you’re in there. If you’re experiencing lifter tick, you can upgrade them. I used to have lifter tick on cold start. When I refreshed my head, I soaked the in lacquer and haven’t had lifter tick since. Still 1g lifters :sneaky: with 130k on them.
 
Hello thanks for all the replies! i am currently waiting for the parts to arrive, im working on the tear drop. Fuel filter was already ordered, along with water pump and gaskets. I also ordered the 3g Lifters, the bs was deleted, looked at the timing and all the lines lined up before i took it apart, so timing was done right, ordered new timing, but my budget is enough to keep it stock for now.
 
I removed my balance shafts since I had the small belt break and take a trip inside the timing cover which bent some valves. I dont know if you can get the shafts out if you do this however with the block still in the car, if you have the engine pulled I would at least consider it. Its one less thing to fail in my eyes.

If you do the elimination I would really suggest that if you can get the bearings out of the block without damaging them to use those when you go to seal the oil passages for the balance shafts. The ones that I got in my STM kit broke where they are joined together, every single one of them. I was able to get the stock ones out, without damaging them or anything else so I was able to reuse them and just spin them 180 to do the job. The stud that you get and the plug worked great though.

Look into the 3g lifters, I didnt know about them until after I got my engine rebuilt. Water pump since its behind the timing stuff and it is the perfect time to do it, and refresh the timing components.
 
2 days ago I managed to get my hands on a 1995 GST with 114k Miles for 800$ was it worth it?
Was it worth it? HELL YEA IT WAS WORTH IT!

Dude I paid more than that for my N/T Eclipse back when it had peeling clear coat and 4 oil leaks!
 
I thought so as well, definitely had to snatch it off the guys hands! And thank you for all the information, im currently trying to buy everything that i can replace pre putting the timing belt on, anything after would be easier and can get over time.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top