Hey, Im still looking for a 420a shortblock because mine is spinning a bearing......I think so I cant drive.. Its a heartbreak because this project took a year and a half. I have a video, i will post in a few

The details of what happened at the end of the project:
1996 mitsubishi eclipse with a 97 eclipse 2.0 420a N/A engine in it. The car started up when I found the problem, crankshaft position sensor broke off. I bought the car for $200!!! With a title!

I drove it home and it ran great, no rattling or anything. I parked it for two days to get a temp tag, when i went to start up before going to get a safety inspection It started rod knocking... at idle the knock is constant, when revved at 2k rpm you can still hear it... My guess is the oil pump failed and is leaving my engine starved. I have a magnetic drain plug in, so what possible little metal shreds in the engine cant possibly harm it...right???

I checked my oil from the dipstick, and i dont see any sparkles of metal, and the oil level is full, so it could be spun bearing(s)?

But on to the real reason of the thread, Im looking for a shortblock until i can rebuild mine to my satisfaction, turbo possibly, forged rods and all. But I've been hearing I can use a dodge neon block assembly and pair it with my 420a head. and vise versa.

I can tow the car to my tech class and swap the block out, i hear its possible to repair a minor spin, but my tech instructor is flipping out about that idea because of the metal shavings (small amount possible) in oil holes and cycling around the engine.

My questions are will i need to do anything else? mods to the block like creating holes?

What year neon engines will this work with? i know most 95-99 models, but what about the newer 2000 engines?

thanks for the help, I would love to dive into this swap and have my fun dsm back. Im on a budget so, any ideas and suggestions are really appriciated.

Video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SEZQjgRNn6w&feature=player_embedded

420A specific forum, under frequently asked questions.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/dsm-420a-frequently-answered-questions/305518-engine-swaps.html

*edit*

and the magnetic drain plug isn't a save all. if you think a bearing is toast, the engine will fail, its only a matter of time.

and i have done a quick and dirty rebuild on a spun bearing block and it held fine, but i wouldn't recommend it if its something you are going to be depending on for transportation.

ok, thanks for the info, So far from the link, its easily understandable. As for my current block, in the future how would i go to restore it? just the simple machine shop cleaning hot tanking boring?

Tribal_RS_96 said:

ok, thanks for the info, So far from the link, its easily understandable. As for my current block, in the future how would i go to restore it? just the simple machine shop cleaning hot tanking boring?

Click to expand...

all depends on if you keep running it and score the crank. if you've stopped driving it since you've noticed the knock, you may be able to get away with new bearings, a polish, a hone, etc. if not at the worst the whole thing could be trash now.

what you put into it depends on your eventual goals. if your going for a peppy N/A daily, some higher C/R pistons, maybe some cams, etc, and you'll be set.

if your looking to boost it, forged internals are a must, the 420A doesn't share in the 4G63's strong internals.

so look around, find out what your eventual goals for the car are, and start planning and saving

Well, for now i plan on keeping it stock. I havent ran it since that video, that was a month ago, im going to try and get it towed to my tech class but i dont know how long it will be before i'll be able to drop the motor and check everything. My tech instructor has his priorities all screwed up it was supposed to be on a lift 1st week of school...

but anyway I'm gonna keep it as my N/A daily driver. try going with my first mind. Honing the block and either polishing the crank or just getting a new crank and bearings, and replacing that oil pump. If i ever get a spare engine, chances are ill start building that one for a turbo.

Thanks for your help and if i make progress ill let you know.

Ok i have another question.... Someone is selling a 2001 dodge neon motor that was rebuilt. just needs a fuel rail and the intake. I read over the 402a engine swap page, but i didnt see anything on the second gen neons. Could this work?

not 100% sure on the 01 block, but unless you majorly damaged your crank, you don't need a new one. oil pump is good to replace, also obviously do timing belt, water pump, tensioner, etc.

the main thing on neons, is we can't use the heads, we have to use the eclipse head because the neons is reversed.

2000 to 2005 Neons had a similar block, but engine mount locations changed a bit. I would look for a 95-99 block 97-99 were the more refind blocks. 95 had different main bearings as well as the 96. Mopar was tweaking the engines to fix problems here and there.

Ok, thanks guys. Thats all i wanted to know, i found another 420a motor, $300 delivered. It has, or claims to have only 85k miles on it so im going to look at it, and if i like it, take it to my auto class and begin installing the new parts. Wish me a quick downtime recovery to getting my dsm back on the road.

What year is the short block?

the engine was pulled from a 1996

Great to hear, give an update when you get her back together.

Thanks, I will give you guys updates on most things i will do.

Today 9-23-11:

I started removing the outer pieces, the thermostat housing, header, manifold. Sandblasted them, and cleaned them off. checked for holes of any sorts or rough edges or ports. So far so good, next update I plan on pulling the valve cover, and removing the stock cam gears. Also going to get the oil pan off and check the crank and bearings, pistons etc. May turn, and blast the flywheel if time permits.

Would it be best if i have the crank rotated at top dead center before removal or just wait till im installing a new timing belt?

Tribal_RS_96 said:

Thanks, I will give you guys updates on most things i will do.

Today 9-23-11:

I started removing the outer pieces, the thermostat housing, header, manifold. Sandblasted them, and cleaned them off. checked for holes of any sorts or rough edges or ports. So far so good, next update I plan on pulling the valve cover, and removing the stock cam gears. Also going to get the oil pan off and check the crank and bearings, pistons etc. May turn, and blast the flywheel if time permits.

Would it be best if i have the crank rotated at top dead center before removal or just wait till im installing a new timing belt?

Click to expand...

FYI don't blast the valve cover as sand/media will get stuck in any little space inside it and you won't be able to completely get it out. If the head is still on the motor I would put it at TDC then turn it back 2 teeth. Then you know for sure none of the pistons are all the way up in the cylinder so if a cam turns or something, the valve won't be forced into it.

Ok thanks for the heads up 95 talon. I will not sandblast the valve cover yes the head is still on the motor and i will set the pistons before pulling the head

10-5-11 update... On hold, replacing and adjusting valves in a 86 chevy pickup in tech. last thing done was set crank and pistons at TDC, began cleaning valves and pistons with seafoam. they looked pretty good before i cleaned them, just a light coat of grime.

New question, where can i turn my flywheel??? Thats the dirtiest, most rusted....only rusted part on the engine. only turning equipment in the shop are brake turners... that i know of.

Ask a local mechine shop or pickup a lightweight one from eBay or Craigslist.

1-31-2012

Ok I'm back to work on the project it took forever for the parts that I ordered to come in I still need a few and while the motor is almost done, while I waited I accessed the damage on the old motor. Spun rod Bearing on Cylinder 4. The crank looks like it could still be turned and matched with a bigger bearing, and the oil pump is dead pretty sure shavings made their way in there. The head took a little abuse, the

On the motor i'm swapping in, I checked the cams over again, no scaring. I tap and redid the bolts.

I got to put the oil pump in and set timing still. I'll look for a writeup on here if there is one

I also noticed my alternator pulley is set up for 4 groove belts while the harmonic balance is made for 5, would that still be ok to run like that or should i find a 5 groove alternator pulley?

Ill try to upload pictures or maybe send this into a blog later.

Well I know this is an old trend but I must let you know we both have the same problem but i went and got a brand new base dodge neon shortblock sohc crate engine n/a and was hoping I to could Frankenstein the 96 420A head to the 05 sohc short block. Well there were some surprises lurking about 1 oil pump, ours has a top an bottom bolt hole for the hydraulic tensioner to mount to the 05 sohc short block oil pump doesn't have this so I'm going to swap my 420A's oil pump over hopefully that problem is solved. 2nd was the crank shaft position sensor our is in the back on the oil pump side, its in the front on the transmission side figured just get the 05 cs and hope for the best. But good news the 96 alt bracket bolted up without a hitch as well as the water pump, also the timing cover and the idler pulley without a hitch. Its been raining out here in MS so I haven't gotten but that far but if you look at my pics you can see that the 420A's motor mount bracket blots right up to the 05 sohc short block it is alot diffirent from the 420A but so far no machining just swaping the nesscery parts to make a 05 sohc short block work on a 96 420A head check me out I dont have a sbop either but i love my bitsumishi this would be great if it works I'll try and take photos of this unusual build alright good luck hit me up if you have any questions.