2G AWD Sending Unit Blow out

mikejsmith1985 · Sep 29, 2019

Hello,
The barb for the return on my sending unit has blown out.

I’ve read that the full blown units have a tendency to leak... currently I’m running factory fuel lines to the filter and from the tank to the FPR.

Now that you can’t buy new sending units what’s the best route to go?
1. repair with bulk head style fittings
2. replace with full blown double hanger
3. Replace with known good factory sending unit?

I did just wire up a walbro 450 the leak occurred after reinstalling.

I appreciate and opinions you’re willing to share!

EVLGSX · Sep 30, 2019

-cheapest/easiest thing to do is bulkhead fitting

-you might get beat up a bit on the price for a used hanger, ive seen them go for anywhere from 75 up to 200 if the seller is a wedge.

- Full Blown hanger looks great but leaks fumes at the wire penetration. Bummer if you dont like huffing gas fumes while driving.

mikejsmith1985 · Sep 30, 2019

Yes I’ve also seen the prices all over the map. Which is the only reason I considered the full blown unit. If it’s going to cost me $500 regardless new billet parts seems like a better value than 20 year old rusted parts...

I am sensitive to the fuel vapors though so full blown isn’t looking all that appealing. I’ll probably go bulk head. I’d like to replace all 3 barbs if I can but I’m not sure there is room for that. I’ll have to get some in my hand and pull the sending unit again.

thank you for the advice!

99gst_racer · Oct 2, 2019

When you say that the "barb for the return on my sending unit has blown out", what exactly do you mean? Did it break off of the top of the hanger? Got a pic?

mikejsmith1985 · Oct 2, 2019

99gst_racer said:
When you say that the "barb for the return on my sending unit has blown out", what exactly do you mean? Did it break off of the top of the hanger? Got a pic?

I don’t have a pic handy, but I can explain what I mean the 90* bend in the nipple has a crack in it and fuel is spraying out of it when under pressure.

I assume I must have pushed on it during install and bent it allowing the crack to happen.

I’m planning on pulling it this weekend and looking to see if there is room for bulkhead fittings on all 3 barbs, as they’re all rusted and look like garbage anyway.

99gst_racer · Oct 2, 2019

Cut the tube off and weld on a bung over the top of it. Quick, cheap, and easy.

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mikejsmith1985 · Oct 2, 2019

99gst_racer said:
Cut the tube off and weld on a bung over the top of it. Quick, cheap, and easy.

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Thanks!
I can make 2 things stick together but I’m no welder... I know a guy that could help me out though.

A few more questions for you.

1. Can I just pull the white electrical connector straight out of the top after unplugging the pump?
2. I assume I need steel fittings? With all the rust I’m ruling out aluminum and stainless steel... but I’d rather ask than assume.

3. I should cut the tube off flush, you didn’t leave some to actually sit inside the bore of the new fitting did you?

99gst_racer · Oct 2, 2019

mikejsmith1985 said:
Thanks!
I can make 2 things stick together but I’m no welder... I know a guy that could help me out though.

A few more questions for you.

1. Can I just pull the white electrical connector straight out of the top after unplugging the pump?
2. I assume I need steel fittings? With all the rust I’m ruling out aluminum and stainless steel... but I’d rather ask than assume.

3. I should cut the tube off flush, you didn’t leave some to actually sit inside the bore of the new fitting did you?

1) The white connector is crimped into place. It can be a bear to get it out. I'd be curious to see how you get it out and then back in.

2) Yup, steel. The smaller the diameter on the hex, the better. Aeroquip fcm2872 is recommended. They are small and unplated. Perfect for the job.

3) It doesn't need to be flush. I left about 1/4" of it sticking up to help locate the fitting before welding.

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