To add in .02 cents

The thermal efficiency of a stainless steel 3 inch downpipe is reduced compared to the original smaller downpipe. The aftermarket pieces also lack heat shielding and insulation

Theory of thermal effeciency is that the hottest pieces of the exhaust will eject the cooler exhaust gases faster out of the tail pipe. If your cast iron exhaust manifold and exhaust housing are exposed they are not consistently hot enough to expel the hot combustion gasses quick enough. It doesnt matter how far open you port the 02 housing, if its 120 degrees hotter than your downpipe, the exhaust gasses are going to stay up by the 02 housing and not expelled further down the exhaust.

You can argue the larger downpipes cause creep, however it's because of their expanded diameter that the downpipes stay colder and causes the hottest exhaust gases to concentrate back up to the 02 housing and turbine hot side.

Heat wrap everything and retain your factory heat shielding or use a turbo blanket. They are used to prevent heat from exiting the iron and being the hottest pieces helps them expel the hottest exhaust gasses faster

I also dont like aluminum radiators, I feel they contribute to higher underhood engine temperatures while only offering a negligible coolant effeciency increase that is often just lost because most aftermarket slim fans flow at lesser rates than the original fans. But thats a more controversial opinion and really only applicable to street cars and not race applications that see regular high speed ventilation

Hotter, higher pressure gasses expand faster into cooler lower pressure areas. Which would actually contribute to creep. If you wrap your manifold and turbine housing, all else being equal, I believe you'd have worse boost creep because you've made the system more efficient and increased the delta across the turbine. People also probably shouldn't look at boost creep as strictly a bad thing. If you had zero boost creep, did some modifications- let's say you got larger cams and added a SMIM- and suddenly had boost creep, you'd know the new parts were working.

I fixed my boosted valve cover mod. Im gonna blame that one on my whiskeyI made a nipple on my intake pipe, and connected the VC to that. I adjusted my wastegate closed, and hooked the WG to the j pipe for now. Most of the go-fast parts, aside from the engine itself came with the car. I don't have a stock downpipe or i would throw that on, so for now drive it nice and save for the fuel system. Thanks for help guys! Your welcome for any laughs i may have provided.

Yeah I have the Pcv to the intake manifold and the vc vent runs to a nipple on the stock intake boot before the turbo. It's a two way street when u are in vacuum it sucks the vapor into the intake. When u build boost it reverses and the turbo is now sucking the vapors out of the valve cover. Simple and effective

EVLGSX said:

just get the fuel system sorted out and get ECLlink going....... then tune it man.

everything else you suggested could help but is not absolutely necessary.

consider porting the internal wastegates passage in the turbine housing, it can help if done correctly.

Creep isnt necessarily a bad thing if you can tune for it, it can actually be a good thing if you can figure it out. I know ive had my fun with it.

on 93 pump gas you can get away with an approximate 30psi spike settling at around 22psi. makes for a fun street car on a 16g with internal WG

Click to expand...

I had lots of fun with with my big 16g creepin to 30ish psi, holding 25.

Comes on like a freight train.