The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support Morrison Fabrication

ECMlink Boost Gauge wired to ecu pin 73?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mikejsmith1985

10+ Year Contributor
130
12
Dec 15, 2009
Bethel, Ohio
I have no doubt this has been covered but I’m just not managing to use the right words in my search.

I’m running v3 and I have an OEM MDP Sensor. I was going to upgrade to a 3 bar, however my PLX Boost gauge is a 3 bar and has an analog output.

So the 2 questions I have are:
1. Is unplugging the mdp or cutting the wire for pin73 so that no readings from the factory sensor can reach the ECU and splicing in the analog output all that needs to be done to take advantage of the built in 3bar sensor for tuning?

2. Is there a benefit to just running a 3bar MAP at the manifold instead of using the boost gauge other than the fact that you don’t have to touch wiring?

Thanks!
 
If I was you, I’d get the mitsubishi style omni 4 bar, and use pin 73 (which is rear O2 If I remember correctly) to log a wideband.
Using the factory MDP style omni 4 bar allows you another free input which dsms are limited on as is

thanks! I have my wideband going to PIN 75 for rear o2 73 is documented as MDP so I felt like using the pin basically changes nothing functionality wise. I’ll probably still take your advice and go with an upgraded mitsu style sensor though it’s the easiest solution for sure!
 
Remember, when the sensor says 3 bar, 4 bar etc, one bar is vacuum so that leaves just the remaining for boost reference, so 28-29 lbs, which is probably fine for most. I am at 30lbs on Kyles gate :p and probably need a 5 bar sensor in the future. I am on a Omni 4 bar currently.
 
Remember, when the sensor says 3 bar, 4 bar etc, one bar is vacuum so that leaves just the remaining for boost reference, so 28-29 lbs, which is probably fine for most. I am at 30lbs on Kyles gate :p and probably need a 5 bar sensor in the future. I am on a Omni 4 bar currently.
Thanks I actually did not know that!
 
The sensor has to report hg back to the ECU also, so, if you think about it, it is just doing its job but not all in positive pressure. :thumb:
Marty
 
The sensor has to report hg back to the ECU also, so, if you think about it, it is just doing its job but not all in positive pressure. :thumb:
Marty
I dont know about these sensors, can you pm me with what it actually does and works as im about to order the SD kit from Ecmlink so guess i should see about if i need a bigger sensor for the future now or not. Cheers Marty
 
Sizing MAP sensors is fairly simple. 1 bar is basically 1 atmosphere (almost but close enough). We are at 1 atm at sea level (14.7 psi) or 1 bar. Anything under 1 atm (1 bar) is vacuum. Zero (0) bar is absolute vacuum. 2 bar is 2 atm or 14.7*2 (29.2 psi minus 14.7 to adjust for absolute vacuum) so 14.7 psi boost. MAP is "Manifold Absolute Pressure" but people & Boost Gauges think in "Gauge Pressure" and is why you add 14.7 psi to desired target boost & size the MAP to the next highest available and not overrun the sensor (target boost+14.7)/14.7=MAP in Bar then round up.
Here's Omni Powers website for Mits MAP's http://omnipowerusa.com/store/Mitsubishi-Universal-Map-Sensor-3-4-&-5-Bar-c5931631. Not much technical info. I just went 5 bar and got it over with & over sizing should not make any difference in tuning resolution or performance.
 
Last edited:
Bobby,
I recommend using the lowest range map sensor you can get away with. As you increase to the larger 5 bar AEM style units, I believe the resolution goes down. What pressures do you run? It would be easy to make a recommendation for you, but are you trying to go "future-proof" with this mod? If so, maybe go 5 bar and be done. If you don't mind changing out map sensors when you go beyond your current limits, then go with something "smaller" that matches the boost you run. ie, I ran a GM 3 bar sensor while running 25psi. I decided to up the boost to 30 and had to upgrade to the 4 bar... I didn't mind buying another sensor, and will buy a 5 bar if I ever need one. If I go back to <28psi I will probably go back to the GM sensor.
 
Thanks for all the help and sorry to kinda jump in on this thread (did not mean to jack it)

Marty PM'd me with some helpful info

But as for my boost for now i want to run 20-24 psi and future maybe 28-32 on a new turbo i want to get. I dont mind upgrading in the future if i have to and by then i should have a good understanding of it all (i hope)
 
Thanks for all the help and sorry to kinda jump in on this thread (did not mean to jack it)

Marty PM'd me with some helpful info

But as for my boost for now i want to run 20-24 psi and future maybe 28-32 on a new turbo i want to get. I dont mind upgrading in the future if i have to and by then i should have a good understanding of it all (i hope)

you’re good I got the info I needed and so did you
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top