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ECMlink dsmlink & speed density first start

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byAzon

Proven Member
43
3
Jul 27, 2019
Cheyenne, Wyoming
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Mod lost: 1220cc injectors Walbro 450 pump after market fuel pressure regulator gt35r turbo with tubular manifold dsmlink v3 and mistu style speed density bundle from ecm tuning. So I been trying to get to at least idle and build oil pressure so I see the condition of the bottom end( I received the car with the head off so I have no idea how the bottom end was) I have a few data logs but it just doesn’t wanna fire up. If I spray starting fluid down one of the vacuum lines it fires right up and runs till there’s no more starting fluid and than it dies out. If anyone could help or give there opinion that will help! P.s I don’t think that pictures up to date of the engine bay so if things are missing it’s probably there but will get a up to date picture when I get off work
 
I will man in like 10 minutes but I might know why too. I had to go off the second firing order so could the injectors be firing in the wrong order?
 

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do you have a 6 bolt in a 2g? either way, what cam angle sensor are you using?
For all I know it’s a 7 bolt I was not informed if it’s a 6 bolt. I just received a car with a bunch of parts in a box LOL
 
Gotcha, well either way, can you upload a pic of the cam angle sensor?

or if you dont know where that is, just shoot a pic of the valve cover while standing on the passenger side of the engine bay.
 

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Gotcha, well either way, can you upload a pic of the cam angle sensor?

or if you dont know where that is, just shoot a pic of the valve cover while standing on the passenger side of the engine bay.
That picture should have the cam angle sensor
 

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1) Ok that shows it. I am not sure what sensor you are using (I have only used green top and black top adjustable CAS). It does not look like an adjustable cam angle sensor (I believe its position is fixed).

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/swapplugwires

Read this as a reference. It describes telling the ecu to swap injector firing when using a cam sensor that doesn't match the ECU in the car.

FYI - my car runs with the checkbox enable or disabled, so I don't think this will be your problem... Probably still worth reviewing so you can understand what you are actually working with.

2) To identify 6bolt vs 7bolt:

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3) Then finally, I highly recommend you list your mods in a vehicle profile for this site. You wont want to list everything out each time you have a question, but it is required for someone trying to help you figure out a problem.

Best of luck!
 
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Have you set your injectors by the calculator under the fuel tab? I just fired my SD car up this last week and havent struggled at all to get her to run and idle. I just have to play with the global fuel and deadtime and she came right to life.
 
I want to check the log, but no ECMlink on the work PC. See above, I am pretty sure Marty knows his stuff.

Side note - when I first swapped to SD I couldn't get it to idle. It WOULD fire up and run with my foot on the gas, and sputter out and die when I let off... So for it to not crank up leads me to believe it is a fuel delivery issue instead of a injector pulse width issue.

I think you may not be getting cam signal - which is used to trigger the injector pulse OR you aren't getting fuel to the rail/injectors. Can you verify your fuel pump is running? Do you have an aftermarket fuel pump? Do you have an aftermarket pressure regulator?

If giving it starting fluid fires it up then obviously you are just missing fuel in the 3 step checklist. SPARK AIR FUEL. That could happen for a large number of reasons, but lets start with the basics.
 
I have fuel all the way back to the tank. fuel pressure is a steady 40psi and I pulled the rail and tried starting the car and the injectors are firing I just think and feels like there not firing in the correct order. and I haven't messed with injectors that much besides putting them in the calculator and even after that they always seems to change there values by them self. ex. I put 1220 and than after a start attempt there like 1150 or something in that range. when I spray brake clean down the port and try starting it and try to keep it alive with my foot it dies right away. I appreciate the help guys
 
Firing the injectors in the incorrect order does not keep my car from running. I can check the box in ecmlink that reverses them (1&4 w/ 2&3 I think) and there is very little effect at idle.

Let me look at your log... Give me some time - I am not giving up yet LOL
 
Firing the injectors in the incorrect order does not keep my car from running. I can check the box in ecmlink that reverses them (1&4 w/ 2&3 I think) and there is very little effect at idle.

Let me look at your log... Give me some time - I am not giving up yet LOL
LOL thanks man just let me know and if we can figure this issue out ill order ya a pizza or something for the help
 
Firing the injectors in the incorrect order does not keep my car from running. I can check the box in ecmlink that reverses them (1&4 w/ 2&3 I think) and there is very little effect at idle.

Let me look at your log... Give me some time - I am not giving up yet LOL
I also have a few starter fluid logs where it fires up and idles for like a second and than dies and I have other logs where its trying to sart with no help
 
No pizza necessary, but the thought is very kind. I am trying to get involved in ecmlink related posts so I can build on my own knowledge base (or lack there of).

I have bad luck with asking questions on forums in the past, so lately I have been considering how often I am on here trying to help others compared to trying to get help for myself. Maybe if I can help others my karma will balance out and I will have more success in my own projects.

I am sketched out about downloading ecmlink at work. They don't monitor anything too closely, but I am fairly sure it is against our policy. For that reason I wont be able to look at your log until I get home around 4pm.

I may not be able to help you much (not sure my own understanding is all that solid) but I am committed to trying!

In the meantime, please post the additional logs you mentioned and make sure we can tell which one is which.
 
I am running link on my work computer today (shhhh) so I am trying to look at your log. You need to capture STFT so we can line out your idle and get the global and deadtimes dialed in so she can idle and move on to a cruise tune. Boost is another thing to capture for a log. I am forgetting a few things but I log the "WORLD" LOL.
Why are you pulling timing at 2000-4500? Zero that out.
Do you have a wideband a/f gauge? We need to log that and capture those values too.
I see you have it setup for the rear O2 input but you need to CAPTURE those values so I can see how lean/rich it is. If you aren't running a front O2 then you need to Simulate Narrowband but your log is saying to give your wideband AEM a pin assignment.
I see a Coolant Temp Sensor circuit malfunction in your DTC's. Clear them and check your coolant sensor to make sure it's plugged in and is sending a signal. Sometimes that's the #1 cause for a no start issue. DTC's 0115 and 0443 both need addressed. Run your Knock CEL at 1or 2 not 5*, thats to late. Coolant cell should be lowered some also. 234 is pretty high.
I made a few adjustments that I could do and put them into files for you to load....give them a try. I fixed as much as I talked about but a few things you will have to button up. :thumb:
 

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  • directaccess.2019.09.19-01 Few adjustments to byAzon log.eda
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  • settings.2019.09.19-01 Made changes to byAzon log.ecm
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thanks man when I get off work and I will make a further post but I never messed with any setting besides calculating injectors sizes and idle pm and all the speed density setting and tried startng from there and I do have a aem wideband gauge just waiting on my 90 v band and I can get tha gauge put in and I haven't touched timing at all cause im waiting to get my fuels right. for coolant im waiting on the water neck and than I can put my sensors in and start running coolant I just wanted to make sure before I put it all the way back together its doesn't knock or anything! but I apricated man I really do so It opened a tab on dsm link don't I just save the changes u made to ecu? sorri its my first time with dsm link
 
1) Ok that shows it. I am not sure what sensor you are using (I have only used green top and black top adjustable CAS). It does not look like an adjustable cam angle sensor (I believe its position is fixed).

https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/swapplugwires

Read this as a reference. It describes telling the ecu to swap injector firing when using a cam sensor that doesn't match the ECU in the car.

FYI - my car runs with the checkbox enable or disabled, so I don't think this will be your problem... Probably still worth reviewing so you can understand what you are actually working with.

2) To identify 6bolt vs 7bolt:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


3) Then finally, I highly recommend you list your mods in a vehicle profile for this site. You wont want to list everything out each time you have a question, but it is required for someone trying to help you figure out a problem.

Best of luck!
Its a 97+ 2g cam sensor. Means he needs to check the (non 96-96 cam sensor) box
 
thanks man when I get off work and I will make a further post but I never messed with any setting besides calculating injectors sizes and idle pm and all the speed density setting and tried startng from there and I do have a aem wideband gauge just waiting on my 90 v band and I can get tha gauge put in and I haven't touched timing at all cause im waiting to get my fuels right. for coolant im waiting on the water neck and than I can put my sensors in and start running coolant I just wanted to make sure before I put it all the way back together its doesn't knock or anything! but I apricated man I really do so It opened a tab on dsm link don't I just save the changes u made to ecu? sorri its my first time with dsm link
Your coolant sensor is not connected so the ecu thinks it is _74 degrees. Even if you don't have any coolant in it you need your sensor connected. You have a 2gb cam sensor and you you need the non 95/96 cam sensor box checked on the MISC tab.

In the DA table you need to increase the tip in settings till you can press the throttle without hesitation as you no longer have a MAF sensor tell the ecu airflow increase before it reaches the engine so there is a lag time with the ecu calculating via temp and pressure.

I have done alil for you but I suggest you go to ecmtuning wiki page and read all there sd pages. Also make sure you fuel pump is actually running and the regulator is set to the correct pressure.
 

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  • 01settings.2019.09.19-01.ecm
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  • 01directaccess.2019.09.19-01.eda
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@MJcanada thanks!

I dont think that is the reason for no-start, but it doesn't hurt to try. Checking the box on my 2g w/ 6 bolt doesn't really change much and is not noticeable without actually driving it around.
 
this is a updated log after tsi talons adjustments but marking the cas box on and off made no difference. I also made sure that there is fuel pressure I can raise it and lower it and when the keys off it returns back to 0
 

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  • best log log.2019.09.18-02.elg
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It looks like you still havent fixed your coolant temperature sensor issue. This will cause a no-start on some cars. The ECU is trying to inject fuel based on -70°F temps which will be A LOT different than 70°F temps. See what you can do about fixing that, and I bet your car will idle...

Best of luck!
 
alright I throw it in there and see if that helps and it does make sense if the computer thinks its -74 it doesn't wanna start
 
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